I have a holley 4160 650 double pumper on top of a 318 with a racing cam and some head work probably with a compression ratio close to 10:1. The idle timing is set at about 12 degrees. Right now I'm having troubles getting the car to idle below 1500 rpms. Also while the engine is running there is gas dripping out of the booster venturis. is his suppose to be happening? and if it's not what needs to be done to fix it. ive checked the float levels and just took the primary and secondary fuel bowls apart and cleaned the metering blocks and replaced fuel valves.
Holley dripping gas into barrel
- Thread starter emanuel
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Nothing to do with dripping fuel, but you need WAY more initial advance, and likely need to recurve the distributor
Causes of dripping....
High fuel pressure, dirt in needle and seat or other damage, incorrectly set float level, or "if a foam float" the float might be "water" logged.
It might also be "partly" at fault that you need so much throttle opening to keep it running (with that timing) that it is pulling fuel over the top so to speak. Still should not be dripping, tho
Causes of dripping....
High fuel pressure, dirt in needle and seat or other damage, incorrectly set float level, or "if a foam float" the float might be "water" logged.
It might also be "partly" at fault that you need so much throttle opening to keep it running (with that timing) that it is pulling fuel over the top so to speak. Still should not be dripping, tho
What he said ^^^^^^^.
@67Dart273 I have the fuel pressure at 5 PSI. I just replaced the needle and seats yesterday (Thats what I meant by fuel valves 
) The float levels I have set a little below the site plug. Do you think I should raise them?
Also what would you suggest the initial advance to be set to?
) The float levels I have set a little below the site plug. Do you think I should raise them? Also what would you suggest the initial advance to be set to?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Turn your idle air screws all the way in then bring them out 1 1/4 turn. Blast all your air bleeds with carb cleaner. Turn your curb idle screw way down. Bring your timing up.
You need to somewhat baseline the carb. Among other issues mentioned, I doubt you are on the idle circuit anymore.
You need to somewhat baseline the carb. Among other issues mentioned, I doubt you are on the idle circuit anymore.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Another cause comes to mind. If the carb has gummed up at all it's possible for the air bleeds to plug and cause dripping / siphon problems
You certainly do not want to raise the float level, at least until you've worked this out. So far as the needles, remember that "new" does not mean "perfectly functional."
Timing has been posted here many many times
A link or two
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158842
You want lots of initial, 15 or more for any sort of "hot cam"
Time it with a vacuum gauge and tach, "for max" RPM and vacuum. Keep turning down the idle until you get it. Of course with a carb problem this is not gonna work. For now, I'd just set it to 15 or so. Check that it does not kick on the starter.
If you have a factory distributor, you either need to recurve it with a shorter / faster advance curve, or replace with an aftermarket performance oriented dist.
"Starting point" is about no more than 20 advance curve "at the crank" EG with 15 initial, this would give you 35 total not figuring the vacuum
You certainly do not want to raise the float level, at least until you've worked this out. So far as the needles, remember that "new" does not mean "perfectly functional."
Timing has been posted here many many times
A link or two
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158842
You want lots of initial, 15 or more for any sort of "hot cam"
Time it with a vacuum gauge and tach, "for max" RPM and vacuum. Keep turning down the idle until you get it. Of course with a carb problem this is not gonna work. For now, I'd just set it to 15 or so. Check that it does not kick on the starter.
If you have a factory distributor, you either need to recurve it with a shorter / faster advance curve, or replace with an aftermarket performance oriented dist.
"Starting point" is about no more than 20 advance curve "at the crank" EG with 15 initial, this would give you 35 total not figuring the vacuum
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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^^ what every one else said and;
At 1500 and 12*initial the boosters should not be dripping unless the low speed circuit is not working at all.Or the cam-timing is off.
At 1500 and 12*initial the boosters should not be dripping unless the low speed circuit is not working at all.Or the cam-timing is off.
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