Holley Strip Dominator

-
AMC PackRat

AMC PackRat

Kind of a mopar guy. ;-)
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Messages
130
Reaction score
1
Location
PackRatistan
I have an unused Strip Dominator for a small bock Mopar and have a few questions. What is the power band range on one of these things? From what I did with a short search I think I saw it listed somewhere as being in the 4000-7000 rpm range. Is that true??? I was hoping for something a little lower than that as it'll probably go on a 340 in a mostly street driven car. If it doesn't come on till 4000 rpm it seems kinda useless on a street car unless it has a 4 speed and some gears in it. I was planning on using a 727 with a manual valve body and 2500 stall converter but it seems like it might be a dog (and total gas hog) 90% of the time driving it on the street. Anybody running one of these on the street with an auto out there???
 
I have one, but have not yet run it. The power band you found is correct. That is where the intake was designed to work. Useing it in a lower RPM band is a do-able thing, but theres a better intake for this out there.

I'd use that intake with a small squarebore carb or a TQ if it is a street bound engine. The MoPar M1 single plane was developed and patterned after that intake. The M1 single is do-able on the street.
 
Just get a 10 inch--or even 9 inch converter. I have a one year old tci streetfighter and it seems tight light throttle. 1,500 rpm and it holds the speed great, push down more on the throttle and it slips to around 3,000.

I had a breakaway 15 years ago, it sucks compare to this converter I have today. Yes $500-$600 is alot of $$$ but its one item that is worth paying more for.

The stock stroke 340 likes big cams and rpm's. A street strip engine with a 7,000 redline works just great set up right. I run two mufflers on each side to keep the noise down...or you could hear the engine 1/2 mile away--not cool on the street. IMO rpm's on the street isn't the problem, its noise and fuel costs.
 
Had one on a 3.91 geared auto 340 in a 3000 lb '65 A. 2600 stall convertor and a MP "031" 284/484 cam. Car loved it. kinda soft until 2500 but that was right where my stall was. Nice for spin control. Might do better with an LD-340 or Stealth, but it works fine if that is what you got.
 
That sounds kinda like what I was considering running - I've had a lot of this stuff for 25-30 years on a shelf and figure I really ought to use it some day. I have a rebuilt standard bore 70 340 with 1.88 intake valve heads (I think). It has 284/484 Purple shaft cam and I have a new Fairbanks 2500 stall converter that's been sitting here for at least 25 years on a shelf. I wanted to run 3.23 gears as I don't have anything in the 3.50-3.70 range. I have 3.91 and 4.30 gears, though but I might as well kiss gas mileage goodby with those. :lol: I was kinda young back in those days and didn't really know much about setting up a "whole package" - I just bought the bigger stuff. :D I still have a 340 tunnel ram I've never used - and probably never will.
 
I'd do the 3.91's and a 26-ish tire. The 3.23's will be hard on the performance. A smaller tire would be needed, but then you'll just blow it off the rim. Bowl port the heads, even with the 1.88's in there, it'll perform nicely.
 
Thanks Rumblefish, you've given me a little assurance that this setup might work somehow. The engine's already together, though. The heads were shaved about .004 for flatness and hardened exhaust seats were installed. I used .020 steel shim gaskets - everybody wanted higher compression back in those days - I'm guessing it's a little over the stock 10.5-1 compression ratio now (stock standard bore pistons) so it'll probably be a little iffy running it with the Purple shaft cam on 93 octane gas without worrying about detonation problems. If I ever find a body to put it in I'll find out, I guess. :icon_smi:
 
Na, I've run bigger cams on 93. I think you'll be fine. Have the abilty to really adjust the distributor.
 
I've got one of those Direct Connection performance electronic distributors around here somewhere with a couple hundred miles on it. It didn't do much for my 76 van but'll probably make it onto this engine. :wink:
 
There a good unit. It should be able to carry you preety far. Getting to the springs for dailing in the advance curve is a pain compared to a new digital unit.
 
I may have to get another converter anyway. It's a 70 340 but I think it's got a cast crank in it IIRC. The Fairbanks I ordered for a 70 340 before I knew that. Aren't cast crank 340s externally balanced? Like I've said before - I've been out of the Mopars for quite a while now. :sad10:
 
The late 72 and 73 - 340 engines have the cast crank. And is externaly balanced.

All other 340's, 318 and 273's are internaly balanced.

At least, from the factory. ;)
 
Yeah - it's kind of an oddball - it's a 70 service block and I think it has a cast crank in it. I planned on checking it out a little closer before I actually stuck everything in a car. I did a lot of goofy things when I was putting it together 20 years or so ago. #-o TRW stock replacement rockers, Crane variable duration lifters, electric water pump drive, etc., :roll: I probably would have gone with roller rockers and regular lifters and would have put the larger intake valves in if I'd have known then what I do now. :sad10: Oh well, gotta run what I brung for now. :iconbigg:
 
Thats it. make it work. Were not Rockerfella's.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top