Holley vs. Eddy

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swies

swies

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OK, So I have a Holley 1850 in one hand and an Eddy 1405 in the other.
Which do I use?!?!?

'75 Dart 4 door, A904 with B&M
318 + .030, 360 heads with 2.02's
Accel Dizzy, wires, and coil.
COMP XE268h with Comp Rockers, springs, and lifters.
Hookers and Flowmaster 10's at the rear axle.

Thanks for the info.
Trusting your great judgments..
 
Whichever you prefer and are comfortable working on.

I find the Edelbrocks are usually a little less "work" as far as tuning goes, more "bolt it on and forget it" than the Holley's.

But the Holley's are easier to tune and work on than the Eddy's, and I feel they can be fine tuned a little better for more performance. That said they also need to be fine tuned, so set up takes longer.

I have, and do, run both. With a relatively mild build like the one you have, either will do the job just fine, and the "best" one will be the one you're most comfortable with.
 
72bluNblu said:
Whichever you prefer and are comfortable working on.

I find the Edelbrocks are usually a little less "work" as far as tuning goes, more "bolt it on and forget it" than the Holley's.

But the Holley's are easier to tune and work on than the Eddy's, and I feel they can be fine tuned a little better for more performance. That said they also need to be fine tuned, so set up takes longer.

I have, and do, run both. With a relatively mild build like the one you have, either will do the job just fine, and the "best" one will be the one you're most comfortable with.
Click to expand...

This /\ /\ /\

X2
 
72bluNblu said:
Whichever you prefer and are comfortable working on.

I find the Edelbrocks are usually a little less "work" as far as tuning goes, more "bolt it on and forget it" than the Holley's.

But the Holley's are easier to tune and work on than the Eddy's, and I feel they can be fine tuned a little better for more performance. That said they also need to be fine tuned, so set up takes longer.

I have, and do, run both. With a relatively mild build like the one you have, either will do the job just fine, and the "best" one will be the one you're most comfortable with.
Click to expand...

X3. I love my Eddies for set and forget, but I am running a Holley now. I adjust it all the time, but I like the power.
 
But... It is rich. Rich to the point that stone cold on a 50 degree day, It will start and idle fine WITHOUT touching the manual choke. I am sure this is too rich when warm but I am not familiar enough to adjust it properly.
I have done the idle mix and they settled about 1 3/4 turns out on both sides.
If I do set the choke, it floods almost immediately.
Holley came off a great running 327 that a buddy had.
If I do the math right, my 318 +.030 is 323cid.
Should be bolt on right?
Or is the linkage going to give me fits?
 
As long as both carbs are the same, square or spread bore, it will bolt on. Will need that mopar throttle arm to hook up auto trans kickdown if using one. Might need to change out power valve depending on which one is in the carb, and possibly rejet if running rich or lean. On the edelbrock carb, jet change and/or metering rods and springs will get your current carb leaned out.
 

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swies said:
But... It is rich. Rich to the point that stone cold on a 50 degree day, It will start and idle fine WITHOUT touching the manual choke. I am sure this is too rich when warm but I am not familiar enough to adjust it properly.
I have done the idle mix and they settled about 1 3/4 turns out on both sides.
If I do set the choke, it floods almost immediately.
Holley came off a great running 327 that a buddy had.
If I do the math right, my 318 +.030 is 323cid.
Should be bolt on right?
Or is the linkage going to give me fits?
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the Edelbrock? If so what is the fuel pressure as they are sensitive to that and have you checked the float level? Do you have the throttle too far open and exposing the transfer slots?

Also, the electric choke must be powered and is it opening fully? My dad had this issue with an Edelbrock.
 
I just got a pressure regulator yesterday and have not installed it yet so I do not know about the current pressure.
As for the Float level and the Transfer slots, I am not experienced enough to know.
How do I check? What do I check?
 
swies said:
But... It is rich. Rich to the point that stone cold on a 50 degree day, It will start and idle fine WITHOUT touching the manual choke. I am sure this is too rich when warm but I am not familiar enough to adjust it properly.
I have done the idle mix and they settled about 1 3/4 turns out on both sides.
If I do set the choke, it floods almost immediately.
Holley came off a great running 327 that a buddy had.
If I do the math right, my 318 +.030 is 323cid.
Should be bolt on right?
Or is the linkage going to give me fits?
Click to expand...


Ditch the manual choke and get an electric choke.

When set up and adjusted properly, they run great.

Hook the positive wire to the input side of the ballast resistor (Not the coil).

Then adjust it so the choke flap is vertical when the car is fully warm.


I drove a 318 with a holley 1850 and electric choke every day in Michigan for years with no trouble. When the choke was adjusted properly, I would go out in the morning, pump the gas pedal twice, start the car, watch the oil pressure climb, then put it in gear and drive away... No stumbles, coughs, or backfires....

I always run electric choke on drivers...

FYI: Holley also has another 600 vac secondary based off of the 1850, but is calibrated for a late 60's vintage car and comes with electric choke... And it's about $20 cheaper than the 1850 to boot!!!


Here it is, the Holley 80457...

http://www.manciniracing.com/homo41noflca.html


The 1850:

http://www.manciniracing.com/600cfmfobast1.html


So you're better off ordering the 80457 than the 1850 and then buying the electric choke if you are buying new...

If you already have an 1850, then get an electric choke kit for it...
 
The 1850 has an electric choke. It is the Eddy that does not.
Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks for the information.
I am now and always, trying to learn.
This is my first MOPAR and things are different here for sure.
 
here are some float setting pics. also edelbrocks like 5psi
 

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A 1405 is an electric choke 600 cfm, correct? That should be fine and should not run rich. I ran a 1406 on my 318, 268h cam, headers, etc .... I hated the Flowmaster 10's, by the way. Way loud and I had a rap on decell, so I went to 3" with an H pipe and Flowmaster 40 series. My 600 Eddy was perfect. I suspect you could use a rebuild. Typically the float level isn't an issue on the Eddies, but who knows how long it sat or if there was old gas gumming it up. Definitely worth pulling apart and cleaning / regasketing. It's not as hard as you think. Pretty darn easy, actually. As earlier posts have said, the Holley's are very easy to play with. Change jets, float levels, etc... right on the car. You just need to adjust them a little more often. If it was me ( and it was at one time ) I would put the Holley on and drive the car while I rebuilt the Eddy. Then I have two working carbs and a ton of flexibility. By the way, I put an 800 Eddy on my 318 at the end and it really woke that engine up. Rich enough to make your eyes water, but it liked the fuel.
 
New to Mopars, Use the Edelbrock and get yourself a rod/jet kit. Much easier to adjust (take 2 torx screws out and change rods) and hold a tune forever, no power valves to think about or gaskets below the fuel line. 4-5 psi only.
 
72bluNblu said:
Whichever you prefer and are comfortable working on.

I find the Edelbrocks are usually a little less "work" as far as tuning goes, more "bolt it on and forget it" than the Holley's.

But the Holley's are easier to tune and work on than the Eddy's, and I feel they can be fine tuned a little better for more performance. That said they also need to be fine tuned, so set up takes longer.

I have, and do, run both. With a relatively mild build like the one you have, either will do the job just fine, and the "best" one will be the one you're most comfortable with.
Click to expand...

And yes, once again! THIS!!! ^^^^^^^^ except tuning ether carb is easy. Just done differently. The Holley has way more parts that are able to be changed and swapped around. This can leed to confusion. Do one change at a time until it runs how you want it to. Do not purchase extra parts until you get to that point. You can spend a lot of money on extra parts for no reason.

The bottom line is what ever you feel fine working on. Which leeds me to say, you NEED. To LEARN to TUNE the carb. You just can not bolt a part on and expect magic!

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!

There actually useful believe it or not.
 
I'll add my 2¢ worth here. IMO, the Eddy/Carter is better out of the box, but if you are able to tune it, the Holley will produce more power.

RE: Holley off friend's car. Though the temptation is to say that 323 isn't very far from 327 CID, it would be misleading to say that CID is all there is to it. Compression, combustion chamber characteristics, cfm on the heads, ignition setup, camshaft characteristics, and rear gearing all play a part in how well a carburetor will play when transplanted from one car to another. Will it work? Sure. But to get the optimal performance/economy balance, it will require some tuning.
 
If they are both used, I'd use the one that appears to be cleaner and in better condition. I think either one will work great on your car.
However...
I've always like Holleys because IMHO they are easier to work on, and (this may sound crazy) they look a lot better.
 
Have a look on YouTube edelbrock have a whole series of tune up procedures on film.
I bought a carb a while ago and I recieved a DVD. I just checked and the films are on YouTube.
 
Plenty of Edelbrocks have whooped up on Holleys and plenty of Holleys have whooped up on Edelbrocks. Pick the one you like the best and have fun!
 
i have found that the eddy cabs in the past made the mettering rods with the steps way more differance than stock mopar AFBs. so if yours are like that try to adjust them to be more like the stock mopar AFB rods. if the engine is close to stock. a full race will much differant. and i found the AFBs like a float set at 5/16. and float drop is not to imporant as the float bottom will hit the bottom of the float bowl be for the 3/4 call out is reached.
 
Thanks guys for all the info. I have been crawling through the Eddy manual and will start tuning (attempting) this weekend. It would be nice to have an A/F meter but those things would break my bank. Will let you know how it goes...
Please cross your fingers for me.
 
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