holley vs Edlebrock

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StrokerScamp said:
Craig, you'll get a better answer if you can include some of what your engine and trans combo is. The 3310 is a GREAT carburetor to slap on and go and be very easy to tune to a variety of engines. As a general rule of thumb, the vacuum secondary carbs are for automatics and the double pumpers are for manuals. Also, it's not a good comparison for you to compare your carburetor to an HP model as far as the vacuum for the distrubutor goes. Most of the HP models have no timed spark vacuum port for the distributor because they are meant for radical engines with a low vacuum signal. If your combo is mild to moderate and driven on the street at all, I highly recommend running the vacuum advance. You'll pick a little part throttle acceleration and the mileage will pick up pretty good from the part throttle timing advance. Just my two cents.
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My 340 is 30 over with a nice cam,not too radical.I have a RPM intake,4 speed with 3:91 posi,stock exhaust mani's with 2 1/2" stainless exhaust.
 
I have a brand new Edelbrock 750 on my freshly rebuilt 340. It is a bugger to get started after sitting overnight, and has been fouling both the sparkplugs and the oil since it was installed around 400 miles ago. It also goes through a ton of gas, even when I try to keep my foot out of it.
My shop played with it a bit, and I've seen zero improvement and it's possibly even worse than before. Not becoming a fan of Eddy any time soon at this rate.
The 340 is also 30 over, semi-radical cam, new aluminum Eddy heads and air gap intake, with TTI headers and 2 & 1/2 inch exhaust.
 

I have a mild 340 (slightly bigger than stock cam, Performer RPM, Hedman Headers, etc...).

I switched to a 670 Holley Street Avenger from an Edelbrock and without doing anything noticed a difference from my Edelbrock 750. I have no idea at this point if the Edelbrock is box-stock or has been tinkered with.

Both seem to start, idle and run okay...but my Duster definately leaves and shifts harder with the Holley.

I prefer the Holleys, simply because I have more experience with them.

I ran out of time this season but next Spring/Summer plan on messing with both carbs...to see which one will end up the winner for me.

Paul
 
CRAIG COX said:
My 340 is 30 over with a nice cam,not too radical.I have a RPM intake,4 speed with 3:91 posi,stock exhaust mani's with 2 1/2" stainless exhaust.
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I would surely run a vacuum advance if I were you. It won't hurt to try it both ways, but I believe you'll find better mileage and response using it.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I would surely run a vacuum advance if I were you. It won't hurt to try it both ways, but I believe you'll find better mileage and response using it.
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I have tried it and it surges bad! that's why I removed it.I'm hoping to get better response and mid to top end improvement.
 
I'm betting you hooked it up to a straight vacuum port, instead of the ported vacuum port.

Consult the manual that came with the carb to be sure it is hooked to the correct port. The vacuum line to the distributor shouldn't be able to effect idle at all.

The vacuum secondaries do not require an external vacuum line to work.
 
340_dart_power said:
I have a brand new Edelbrock 750 on my freshly rebuilt 340. It is a bugger to get started after sitting overnight, and has been fouling both the sparkplugs and the oil since it was installed around 400 miles ago. It also goes through a ton of gas, even when I try to keep my foot out of it.
My shop played with it a bit, and I've seen zero improvement and it's possibly even worse than before. Not becoming a fan of Eddy any time soon at this rate.
The 340 is also 30 over, semi-radical cam, new aluminum Eddy heads and air gap intake, with TTI headers and 2 & 1/2 inch exhaust.
Click to expand...


It could just be too lean, try smaller rods on the big end, if its .070, try a .064



The air gap isn't no help either on the fouling plugs, a heated intake would work much better right now in the cool fall temps. The plugs get fouled out after so long, if the intake exhaust heat is open the motor warms up in a few mins--least the intake does and helps keep the plugs clean. If you must run the air gap in cool temps then you need a powerful MSD system--like a race car has. The plug wires, cap all has to be top notch--just a MSD 8 box won't do it, the plug wires or cap will missfire/crossfire cause the spark energy is so strong it find any weak spots.

There could be other things, like a leaky intake gasket compounding the other problems.
 
CRAIG COX said:
I have tried it and it surges bad! that's why I removed it.I'm hoping to get better response and mid to top end improvement.
Click to expand...

Thats what mine did.

LXguy said:
I'm betting you hooked it up to a straight vacuum port, instead of the ported vacuum port.
Click to expand...

I don't know about CRAIG but I hooked mine to the appropriate vacuum port and it ran awful.
 
demon seed said:
Oh I like that Marland, is that one of the newer Holleys that has the sight glass on the side of the bowls?
Click to expand...

No unfortunately its the old school drop the screw type. lol

Ive had all types of Holleys through the years and this one is the best one yet.

It came with 76 jets squared front and back w/ progressive secondaries. Sort of expensive little rascal.
 
Quote:No unfortunately its the old school drop the screw type. lol

Yea they're allright if ya got an electric fuel pump but if she's a lumpy idler you're screwed.
 
Craig the 3310 is a great carb. I've owned a few over the yrs. Most of the time you can just slap them on and go. As for it surging when the vacuum advance on the dizzy is hooked up, that could be due to 2 things.

1. The vacuum advance canister on the dist. may be bad so when you hook the line up it creates a vacuum leak.

2. The vacuum advance canister has too much advance. The best way to limit it is replace the canister with one that has less advance. If it's a Mopar dist. I have a list of what vacuum advance canisters have what for advance.

When working right a mild to moderately built engine will benefit from vacuum advance. Helps keep the plugs cleaner, helps fuel mileage when cruising, and generally helps cold idle warmup. I almost always run vacuum advance distributors.
 
fishy68 said:
Craig the 3310 is a great carb. I've owned a few over the yrs. Most of the time you can just slap them on and go. As for it surging when the vacuum advance on the dizzy is hooked up, that could be due to 2 things.

1. The vacuum advance canister on the dist. may be bad so when you hook the line up it creates a vacuum leak.

2. The vacuum advance canister has too much advance. The best way to limit it is replace the canister with one that has less advance. If it's a Mopar dist. I have a list of what vacuum advance canisters have what for advance.

When working right a mild to moderately built engine will benefit from vacuum advance. Helps keep the plugs cleaner, helps fuel mileage when cruising, and generally helps cold idle warmup. I almost always run vacuum advance distributors.
Click to expand...
Thanks for being helpfull.Maybe I'll try another distributor! I'll keep my eyes peeled for a new one!
 
dodge freak said:
It could just be too lean, try smaller rods on the big end, if its .070, try a .064



The air gap isn't no help either on the fouling plugs, a heated intake would work much better right now in the cool fall temps. The plugs get fouled out after so long, if the intake exhaust heat is open the motor warms up in a few mins--least the intake does and helps keep the plugs clean. If you must run the air gap in cool temps then you need a powerful MSD system--like a race car has. The plug wires, cap all has to be top notch--just a MSD 8 box won't do it, the plug wires or cap will missfire/crossfire cause the spark energy is so strong it find any weak spots.

There could be other things, like a leaky intake gasket compounding the other problems.
Click to expand...

RGR that, thanks for the advice.
This topic is way outside my areas of expertise, so I'm really dependent upon the guys who work on my Dart to be straight with me.
 
If your engine surges with the vacuum advance connected, you probably have too much initial advance or the vaccuum is too loose in the distributor. You can put an allen wrench in the veccum and turn in in (clockwise to slow down hoiw quickly the vacuum advanced the distributor. I have a holley than runs well, but you need to play alot with Holleys to get them right on. I also have a Carter AFB marine carb that I will play with because I think a Carter is a better carb for the street unless you street race.

At 70, I live my life onday at a time! Below is a picture of part of my history ( Palmdale, CA 1998 )
 

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mullinax95 said:
Thats what mine did.



I don't know about CRAIG but I hooked mine to the appropriate vacuum port and it ran awful.
Click to expand...

If you're talkin about the Holley HP you posted a pic of, I didn't even SEE a timed spark vacuum port on it. Most don't have one. They are always on the primary metering block just above the idle air screw on the passenger's side and I saw no vacuum port there in your pic. If you hooked it anywhere else, it was probably on manifold vacuum.
 
..............3310 is a great carb..........is ur dizzy recurved.........usually its the pick up coil in the dizzy if u have surging with the vacc adv hooked up.........providing u have ur base timing set right....kim.........
 
CRAIG COX said:
Thanks for being helpfull.Maybe I'll try another distributor! I'll keep my eyes peeled for a new one!
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Just getting a new dist. may not help because most are not set up with a performance tune in mind, even if their a performance dist. You almost always have to re-curve the dist, change springs, etc. to get it set up for your particular engine.
 
StrokerScamp said:
If you're talkin about the Holley HP you posted a pic of, I didn't even SEE a timed spark vacuum port on it. Most don't have one. They are always on the primary metering block just above the idle air screw on the passenger's side and I saw no vacuum port there in your pic. If you hooked it anywhere else, it was probably on manifold vacuum.
Click to expand...

Rob I don't know much about the HP series Holley's but a few days ago I read that they do have a timed port and it's located on the base. There are 2 ports right next to one another. One is full time vacuum and the other is timed. I guess they must have the timed port drilled at an angle to go above the throttle blades.
 
fishy68 said:
Rob I don't know much about the HP series Holley's but a few days ago I read that they do have a timed port and it's located on the base. There are 2 ports right next to one another. One is full time vacuum and the other is timed. I guess they must have the timed port drilled at an angle to go above the throttle blades.
Click to expand...

There is a extra port on the base which is the timed port.
 

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