Hot Restart Problem

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Reddartowner

Reddartowner

UCF Alumni....Go Knights!
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The 318 in my son's '68 Dart has an intermittent hot restart issue. After sitting for 5-10 minutes, sometimes it will cough back through the carb, and then crank for 10-15 seconds before starting. Most of the time its turn the key, squeeze the gas and vroom it starts. Never does this when cold, hot only, and only intermittently. The car runs and drives fine, just has this hot restart issue. Engine stats are: rebuilt stock 318 with 600 Holley with 68 primaries, Edelbrock Performer intake, HEI ignition upgrade, 18 degrees base timing. Anyone have any thoughts on this..?? Could this be a sticking intake valve...?
 
it's usually a percolating gas problem-most people have had good luck with carb spacers (to reduce the heat that soaks up and boils the gas).

In my case I ran a switch to the electric fuel pump so I could shut it off and run the car out of gas when I shut it off- solved my problem.
 
The cough back through the carb is probably just because it's too lean due the fuel boiling problem.
The spacer should pretty much solve the problem.
Especially if it's not a metal one, and is at least 3/8 thick.
 
I did three things on my 67 that greatly helped hot start, a mild 360, now 318

Used a spacer as mentioned

Use a rear mount electric pump.

Install a Wix (or equivalent) fuel filter with a build in return, and run a return to the tank. There are several ways to do this, one would be to modify the sender, or I believe you can buy repop senders with the return fitting in the sender flange. I silver brazed a return fitting into the front wall of the tank, after draining, and then flooding the tank with CO2 from my MIG

Wix 33040, 5/16, 33041, 3/8, or 33054, 5/16 with 90 output. All have a 1/4" return, which must be at the top of the can:

[/img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/318enVkNS5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
 
I had the same problem(hot starting issue) and thought it was the carb, percolation.... all the above. Turns out it was the gap in my electronic dizzy (brand new too) corrected the gap, problem gone. Easy enough to check.
 
fklskv said:
I had the same problem(hot starting issue) and thought it was the carb, percolation.... all the above. Turns out it was the gap in my electronic dizzy (brand new too) corrected the gap, problem gone. Easy enough to check.
Click to expand...

What did you find...too large a gap or too small..? Should be .008 to .010, right.?
 
I think the spacer under my 2 brl. was looked up under 75 model to get the thick one.
A slight adjustment to choke linkage was needed too. Cured
 
fklskv said:
I had the same problem(hot starting issue) and thought it was the carb, percolation.... all the above. Turns out it was the gap in my electronic dizzy (brand new too) corrected the gap, problem gone. Easy enough to check.
Click to expand...

Very first things you should check in a "no start" condition is

"Is there spark?"

and "Is there fuel?"
 
If it was a Thermoquad you would be replacing the main well o-rings......in your case as everyone has stated, the non metal spacer will work wonders....
 
Update.... Installed the Edelbrock spacer and the problem is now 75% gone. Still get an occasional light "cough" but the car will still start. The spacer is only .3 inches thick, maybe a thicker spacer would work better, but for now I think we're good. We'll watch it and see....
 
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