Hotchkis TVS - 1967-1972 Kit - Thoughts/Experience?

-

Gamedog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2016
Messages
599
Reaction score
865
Location
Colorado
Hey Guys,

Considering replacing the suspension on my '70 Swinger before I throw the 408 in and was considering the TVS kit. After doing a quick search on here it looks like there were concerns with the rear springs sitting too low. Now, I did also see that the posts were all more than a year old, so I was hoping to get some feedback from those of you who have had recent experience with the system.

Has the rear spring problem been addressed?

I understand the system lacks shocks and spindles, which I would have to buy on top, but what else can y'all tell me? Anxious to hear some updated feedback and get my car riding better.

For those who would advise going a different route, what other comparable systems/components are out there?

Link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hss-80113/overview/

Thanks for the help in advance fellas!

Gamedog
 
Don't forget the Torsion bars and steering box! I know what you're going through, budget/time and your end goals are all important. I looked into the TVS system for awhile then bit the bullet and went coil over conversion. I just couldn't justify spending that much time and money just to have an upgraded stock suspension when there's so much new tech out there at a marginally higher cost. There's RMS, GTS, HDK, Control freak and magnum force to look at. I went with GTS after weighing all the options, I'm currently installing the GTS 4 link with watts bar.
 
So I've put this info out there a few times, the last time was a over a year ago so I'm sure some of the prices have changed. But the part numbers should be good.

The Hotchkis TVS is a great set up for handling. The only issues I have with it is that it doesn't include everything you need (no torsion bars, no shocks, etc) and it includes a few things that you really don't need (heim jointed UCA's, steering links), and it's pretty pricey.

For the price of the TVS, you can get components that will pretty much do everything the Hotchkis set up will do and take care of the "missing" parts...

1.06 (or bigger) Firm Feel torsion bars -------------$355
Tubular UCA’s (PST, FFI, etc)------------------------$350
Adjustable strut rods (PST SR 14385)---------------$279
Solid tie rod sleeves (PST SAS 440S)----------------$49
LCA boxing plate (PST LCAPLTMOP621)-------------$14.50
Greasable LCA pins (FFI w bushings)----------------$135

Helwig tubular front sway bar 1 1/8” #55905 (73+ K)--$175
(#55917 for 67-72 K and large tires --- $263)
Solid rear 3/4” #6907--------------------------------$237

Mopar oval track springs
Zero arch- P4529414---------------------------------------------$232
1" arch- P4529415

Energy suspension 1" shackle bushings 2-2117G----$9

Bilstein RCD shocks(RCD-70-56663)------------------$410

Grand total on that is about $2,300, that's got a little extra built in depending on where you shop.

That's basically the entire set up that I run on my Duster. I didn't get all of those exact parts, my strut rods aren't from PST, I'm running Hotchkis Fox shocks, my UCA's are Magnumforce pieces I bought used and will get swapped out for my new SPC arms from BergmanAutoCraft, my torsion bars are 1.12", etc. But it will set you up with a great handling car. Don't get me wrong, the Hotchkis set up is VERY nice. They make quality parts. Probably a little lighter, definitely a little sexier. But, you'd still need torsion bars and shocks, and you might have ride height issues in the back (I run 121 lb AFCO's which are no longer available but almost identical to the mopar oval tracks). The other thing is that after running Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger with heim joints, I wouldn't run heim joint UCA's again on the street. Mine wore out after 7k miles. Hotchkis replaced them at no cost and provided boots (great service!!!), but after another 7-8k miles I'm starting to notice some extra clicking coming out of the front end again. The heims would be fine on a track car or even a weekend car, but for a frequent driver you're going to be replacing the heims more often than I'd care to. Bushings work just fine and last much longer.

The only things I'd add other than what I've got listed above are subframe connecters, torque boxes, 17/18 rims with modern tires (BIG handling difference), and a good modern alignment, say -.5* up to -1* camber, +3 to +5 caster (manual to power), and about 1/16" toe in. None of that is included with the TVS either, but chassis stiffening is a very important part of improving handling on these cars.

As far as coilover conversions, you can handle just as well with torsion bars. The Hotchkis Challenger and Taxi are pulling close to 1g on the skidpad, which is on par with new performance cars and is actually pretty dependent on tire choice. The only advantages I see to the coilover conversions are header clearance and rack and pinion steering, but IMO neither are worth the conversion. They also require additional chassis stiffening IMO, because the chassis' of these cars were not designed to carry loads in all of the locations that they're applied by the coilovers.
 
Last edited:
I just installed this exact kit with the adjustable shocks and subframe connectors while also installing full power disk brake setup on my 68 barracuda. The car definitely feels much more stable and handles way better than stock. I would go the extra mile with an upgraded steering box which is my next step.

Was looking at the firm feel ps gearbox and looking for any feedback from those who may have installed one of their gears in their vehicle.

Their may be better options on upgraded suspension but I am very pleased with the way it transformed my car.
 
72 pretty much covered it, plus boxing the lower control arms. Also, what tires do you intend to run? You mentions spindle replacement, why? What do you intend to use the car for?

FYI, I have driven a Stage 1 Firm Feel box on my dads 66 Coronet 500 and its nice. Firmer and no slop. I have a Stage 3 to go in my GTS.
 
What Blu said. I am sure you can chase around for a set up but less a few thing the TVS is pretty much there.

(67 Dart) I have the Hotchkis TVS, 1.03 bars and the Hotchkis adj shocks. The shocks are worth the price. I am boxing my LCA (FF), reinforcing the K frame (FF) and have a stage 2 FF box ready to go. Frame connectors and torque boxes (USCARTOOL) will be later. 4 x Wilwood discs.

Hotchkis are super friendly and helpful too.
 
A couple more tidbits from someone who has done many, many suspension systems...

1. My experience along with a few others have had the issues with springs too low on Darts. My guess is the lighter 108" wheelbase cars are what they were really designed for. I sell a 6 leaf 130lb spring that sits great and is US made.
2. I make my own delrin lower control arm bushings, unique to anything else on the market.
3. I like Hotchkiss sway bars, but the front requires welding of the factory style tabs. Not everyone wants to do this.
4. I also like Hellwig bars. The bracketry is a little lighter duty than Hotchkiss and less expensive. The hammertone finish is ok for some people but its there to hide roughness in the metal. The front tubular bar fits oe tabbed lower arms. High offset rims will contact the bar only at full lock.
5. I prefer QA1 upper arms for several reasons, along with firm feel torsion bars.
6. For steering, my Borgeson setup is much more modern and lighter than oe boxes. More expensive but worth it.
7. Feel free to call me at the shop or visit Bergmanautocraft.com
 
A couple more tidbits from someone who has done many, many suspension systems...

1. My experience along with a few others have had the issues with springs too low on Darts. My guess is the lighter 108" wheelbase cars are what they were really designed for. I sell a 6 leaf 130lb spring that sits great and is US made.
2. I make my own delrin lower control arm bushings, unique to anything else on the market.
3. I like Hotchkiss sway bars, but the front requires welding of the factory style tabs. Not everyone wants to do this.
4. I also like Hellwig bars. The bracketry is a little lighter duty than Hotchkiss and less expensive. The hammertone finish is ok for some people but its there to hide roughness in the metal. The front tubular bar fits oe tabbed lower arms. High offset rims will contact the bar only at full lock.
5. I prefer QA1 upper arms for several reasons, along with firm feel torsion bars.
6. For steering, my Borgeson setup is much more modern and lighter than oe boxes. More expensive but worth it.
7. Feel free to call me at the shop or visit Bergmanautocraft.com

All good points!

Like Peter I don't like heim joints on UCA's for the street, which I mentioned in my post above. Bushings are a better choice for a street car, I'd only use heims at the UCA's for a track car myself after running them on my Challenger on the street. I have a set of Peter's SPC double adjustable arms with delrin bushings, very nice pieces. Probably overkill for a street car, the QA1's or some of the other bushed, non-adjustable tubular arms are fine for that.

The Hellwig bar you want for the 67-72 K frame is #55917. It's been modified for better tire clearance. I updated my post above to include that part number and price (ouch!). I listed the #55905 originally, which is what I run, but it's for the 73+ style K member. No clearance issues at all with that one, I run 275/35/18's up front and have never had any issues with sway bar interference with it.
 
I have the Hotchkis TVS on my '68 Dart with a 408 and have had no problems with it whatsoever. I've autocrossed it and have put a couple hundred miles of street/freeway driving. Feels like a brand new car. I'm also running 1.06" FF T-bars (may bump them up), Hotchkis subframe connectors, Hotchkis bushings, boxed LCA, Borgeson PS, a custom 6-point cage, and Hotchkis adjustable shocks. I have 255/40/18 tires on 18 x 9" wheels on all 4 corners with stock leaf spring location. The car sits perfectly, but I prefer a lower ride than most traditionalists.
 
I have the Hotchkis TVS on my '68 Dart with a 408 and have had no problems with it whatsoever. I've autocrossed it and have put a couple hundred miles of street/freeway driving. Feels like a brand new car. I'm also running 1.06" FF T-bars (may bump them up), Hotchkis subframe connectors, Hotchkis bushings, boxed LCA, Borgeson PS, a custom 6-point cage, and Hotchkis adjustable shocks. I have 255/40/18 tires on 18 x 9" wheels on all 4 corners with stock leaf spring location. The car sits perfectly, but I prefer a lower ride than most traditionalists.
Do you have pics you can share?

EDIT: Just saw some in your build thread. Looks awesome! Exactly what I am aiming for.
 
Last edited:
My experience with the Hotchkis TVS is that it is very good. My son runs it on his 72 Scamp. To me it handles even better than the alterkation set up. His car at Carlisle Nationals was handle better than most of the cars, even his time trials were close or even better than most of the cars with his slant 6 in it.
 
-
Back
Top