Hotchkis TVS for A-Body's!

[mopardude318]

Pretty cool stuff...I have the RMS tubular uppers and strut rods, with QA1 12 way adjustable shocks, hellwig 1 1/8" tubular sway bar, 1.0" torsion bars and 245/45/17's on all 4 corners. and also with the FR 16:1 manual steering box. Soon to get a hellwig rear sway bar..I was impressed with how it drives. Handled nice, that's for sure...Am curious how much better the TVS system is and how much I'd gain if I went with that setup instead...not gonna happen as I am done with suspension now..lol...just curious...AutoX, I know your familiar with my setup as we have talked many times, and you have helped me tremendously which I am very thankful.

 

[jamesdart]

looks cool i just couldnt get used to that list price on that kit but i guess it is available cheaper so its probably not too bad. you can source similar parts from other places but i dont know how much of a savings youll get. dusterbd13 are you running a hiem jointed strut rod or is it just an adjustable length? i hate the factory strut rod bushing the hiem jointed stuff has to help big time. hotchkis a arms look to be made of a larger tube, but i dont really think that matters i never heard of a bent tube a arm.

 

[autoxcuda]

....

im also running big block torsion bars in mine, and KYB's. never liked the turn in or handling ive had in the car since the resto, but then again my tires are 10 years ols, 60 series 15's, and my alignemnt is crap.

anyway, some input on the differences would be appreciated before i spend money i dont have to get where i should have gone in the first place.

michael

The turn in on my car is very good. The Hotchkis suspension engineer was very impressed with turn in and he drives and races the yellow E-Max Challenger T/A. Must be something inherent to A-bodies over E-bodies! :cheers:

You have .89 big block sized Torsion Bars?

Next step is 1.00". Or the jump to biggest ones, the 1.14" that I just put on.

I was really worried about the ride of the 1.14" T-bars. They are almost three times the stock 340 T-bar rate! But the whole combination and the Hotchkis shocks really make a difference. Just cruising around, it doesn't feel much different than the .99 I had on before for 16 years. Actually in some ways it rides better.

I used to get a pull down on my seat belt when I'd drive over a large piece of pavement was moved up or down. Like a newly paved section or the beginning and ending of a bridge. That's gone now! The Hotchkis shocks really work.

Test driving last evening it just tracks better. When you are on long gradual curves on the freeway it just follows the road better. Used to sort of hunt around. And those sharp 25mph freeway entrances and exits... Well it just keeps on gripping :toothy10: I need to make a float adjustment. I can feel it leaning out.

At real low speed flogging making U-turn in industrial streets balls out, it generates all kinds of G's. Stalled out the temporary carb I have on there that needs adjustment. Nice having that center console to brace my leg against. And I have bucket seats and have some side bolstering to them.

 

[jamesdart]

sounds fun. i was having fun th eother day in my duster on the on and off ramps when i got home i saw gas all over the 1/4 panel. i thought it was kind of funny.

 

[bjkadron]

That looks awesome! Did you get the whole upgrade autox?

As far as cost to benifit... I will have about $700 into my suspension and brakes soon. And I'd put it up against any stock based system. Give me a couple months to get everything finished though. Not that just anybody could do the stuff I am doing. But being an engineer can help when it comes to making stuff yourself.

But never underestimate the cost of Good R&D. The price seems reasonable for what you get. As it is a complete system designed to work together, rather than something that uses a little bit of everything.

 

[dusterbd13]

not using the 2 inch drop spindles, autox. stockers. staying 255/40/17 because they fit pretty good. guess i could go a little wider and taller, but i think they will work just fine. got to drive on them first, though, to se where i am.

judging by the picture, the upper part of the spindle is pointed frontwards. i always thought that was negative caster. i have always been told to think about a spindle like a motorcycle front end. am i informed incorrectly?

the springs are on the order list. do they hav a special front hanger, or re-use the stock hangars?

i am using the .89 bars. couldnt think of the size last noght.

what else should i be looking at? im just not impressed with the turn in, the understeer, the wheel return, etc with my current setup.
the uppers look neat, i i know i can get further into negative camber/positive caster with them, but will the moogs be sufficient to get the driving experience i want?



thanks for the compliment on my duster. theres a build thread around here somewhere....

 

[autoxcuda]

That looks awesome! Did you get the whole upgrade autox?

Yes, the entire TVS system.

As far as cost to benifit... I will have about $700 into my suspension and brakes soon. And I'd put it up against any stock based system. Give me a couple months to get everything finished though. Not that just anybody could do the stuff I am doing. But being an engineer can help when it comes to making stuff yourself.

When You mean "stock based", is that from the factory all original setup or aftermarket systems like the Hotchkis?

From my experiance that will take all used parts. And a few "scores" on good deals and stuff that might not normally pop up used. I've done that over the last 16 years, you're not going to get the refinement and precision as the Hotchkis system provideds.

But never underestimate the cost of Good R&D. The price seems reasonable for what you get. As it is a complete system designed to work together, rather than something that uses a little bit of everything.

Yep.

 

[bjkadron]

Yes, the entire TVS system.

When You mean "stock based", is that from the factory all original setup or aftermarket systems like the Hotchkis?

By "stock based" I mean nothing like a fancy new k-frame, or new suspension geometry such as the alterkation, though It would be interesting to see the match-up. Although I am working on a set-up that is like that... So that will be up for all challengers.

From my experiance that will take all used parts. And a few "scores" on good deals and stuff that might not normally pop up used. I've done that over the last 16 years, you're not going to get the refinement and precision as the Hotchkis system provideds.

Yep.

Well, Actually it will be Mostly used parts and a little fancy fabrication. But as I said most people couldn't do it for what I'll be doing. Though I may Splurge for better shocks than my original plan, which will obviously up the price. And my new wheels might throw that off.. But I was just counting the suspension. What do you mean scores on stuff that doesn't pop up used? Not out of the box I won't.. But with a little messing around I should be able to get close.

Side note: Where do you get good brake pads for the stock calipers? The best I can find is "wearever silver" and that isn't all that great.

 

[autoxcuda]

not using the 2 inch drop spindles, autox. stockers. staying 255/40/17 because they fit pretty good. guess i could go a little wider and taller, but i think they will work just fine. got to drive on them first, though, to se where i am.

Grip is king. I'm doing whatever I can to get 275/40/17's in the front of my car.

judging by the picture, the upper part of the spindle is pointed frontwards. i always thought that was negative caster. i have always been told to think about a spindle like a motorcycle front end. am i informed incorrectly?

The picture was taken before the alignment and with the suspension at full droop not a ride height were you align a car. I think you are looking at the angle of the ball joint housing not the entire spindle. Because of the anti dive, the ball joint housing changes angle at full droop relative to the spindle.

So you are right, just the circumstance of the picture are deceiving.

the springs are on the order list. do they have a special front hanger, or re-use the stock hangars?

New front hangers. You can see them in the picture I posted of the springs side by side.

i am using the .89 bars. couldn't think of the size last night.

From reading your past posts it seems like you are looking at the racier side of handling performance. So Start considering .99"/1.00" and work your way up from there.

what else should i be looking at? im just not impressed with the turn in, the understeer, the wheel return, etc with my current setup.
the uppers look neat, i i know i can get further into negative camber/positive caster with them, but will the moogs be sufficient to get the driving experience i want?

Front T-bars.

In the scope, costs, effort and installation of new T-bars, leaf springs, shocks, strut rods, tires/rims... I wouldn't seem like a good idea to skip the Hotchkis tubular uppers.

 

[redlinegw]

Nice to see your car with the Hotchkis setup Steve!

 

[autoxcuda]

BTW, for reference. This is what my car weighed on electronic scales.

3412 lbs no driver.

56% weight on front

Car currently has all cast iron engine with 68 type 340 manifold, full exhausts to chrome tips, power steering, cast iron water pump, cast iron 340 intake, full brass radiator...