hotter 318 cam

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Biffelina

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hi im looking for a good street cam thats hotter than stock for my 318 build. the engine has 360 heads, edelbrock Ld4B intake, Keith Black KB Performance Pistons, some cheape headers and a edelbrock 600 carb..

any suggestions?

sorry for my bad english..
 
Axle ratio, what are you going to do with it? Street? Street/strip???
 
auto or 4-speed? If auto, is it a factory torque converter? Gears ratio in that 8 1/4 along with weight of car will also play an important role in selecting a proper cam.
 
it have a 904 auto.
yes it is the factory torque converter.

i think i will have like 3.55 to 4.10 maybe? im not really sure..

the weight is around 1560 kg
 
I would think a cam around the size of a factory 340 would be ideal. Many to choose from, but here is just one from Mopar Performance P4452761AE. Summit sells them along with many other places. I've personally ran this cam and liked it alot
 
okay, thanx for all the help guys! :)

so the big question now is if Comp Cam are better than Mopar Performance or the other way around haha :p
 
^^^^^ Don't get caught up in that ^^^ Some will say Lunati, Crane, MP, Howard, etc. etc. etc.

Secret to good cam life is a good break-in, and oil with high zinc or zinc additive. I have VR-1 (Valvoline 10w-30) in one of my dusters now with a flat tappet, but that too is just one of many choices.
 
Picking a cam without any understanding of one should follow these guide lines as a basic "How to choose a cam" for there car. Remember that cams perform in a certain rpm range and as the bigger they get, the rpm range goes up.

The cam should work with the intended tire size/gear ratio, stall of the converter & over all engine package.

Ask your self these questions;
At what rpm do I want to cruise in. As in driving down the highway.
What is the min. rpm (of the cam) I can use with my converter and gear?
What is my engines compression ratio and will it work OK with the cam?
Can my heads handle the cams lift? Not in flow term but actual mechanical limitations.

Knowing your gear ratio, tire size, stall converter is the first step.
I could recommend what I think is an excellent match for engine parts to make the most enjoyable street ride engine, but unless you have at least a 2000 stall converter & a 3.91 gear, it would be pointless and your car would be very sluggish until about 2000/2500 rpm.

Stock converter with numerical gear ratios lower than 3.21?
Look at cams under [email protected]
Stock converter & gear ratio above 3.21 Look at cams under [email protected] duration
Add a converter to 3.21 & better gear? Cams to [email protected]
 
No matter what manufacturer of cam shafts you choose, and who is better is a lot like the best flavor of ice cream for today, read there cams description and how or where they work best. Or best in. You may be amazed at how similar cam specs (and sometimes what reads as identical) can be so wildly different in operation. Then, the difference from one manufacturer to the next will yield more and different results.

Oh, almost forgot.....

In your case, stock heads, look at cams with more exhaust duration of approx. 6 - 8 degrees more in the exhaust side as to help the engine breath a bit better. This also helps extend the cams rpm range by a few hundred RPM's
 
I had the same combo many years ago, 318 with 360 heads. I used a mopar purple shaft with .474 lift. It was in my 2 wheel drive truck. Stock converter with cheap headers and a ratcher shifter. The engine would rev like crazy and was a blast to drive and it wad my every day driver. Cam was pretty lumpy and it always started for me even at 5 degrees below 0 in Minnesota.
 
Here's what a 292 advertised 455 lift sounds like in a 318 with 302 swirl ports and headers with glass packs on 2" pipe. It works ok because it is a 4 speed car with 3.55 gears and decent compression. I got the cam on sale from PAW and basically bought if for the sound. It would not be a good cam for a street car with automatic without lots of converter and gears.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MbTXrOsvps"]75 Dodge Dart start up & idle - YouTube[/ame]
 
Good idea mgunner!

My old '74 Duster, '78-318, low 7.8-1 compression stock everything except bolt on parts (LD4B, 600cfm carb, hooker headers and Jegs exhaust and a Crane Cam.
216/228-.454/.480-112

This should be a mid 14 second capable cam for you.
A long long time ago, on A cold November day.... LOL!


[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pOYMlTTecTU[/ame]
 
Also remember when you look up cams powerband and info their talking about how it acts in 340/360 sometimes they throw in 318 info. So you got to add probably 300-500 rpm to those powerband numbers. Eg. If you look at 400 hp 318/340/360 they make peak hp ruffly at 6100/5800/5500 respectively. And your engine is probably shooting for 300 hp depending on cam choice which would probably be at 5300 rpm. So your looking at cams with 800-4800/1000-5000 powerband.
 
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