There is a house of hose right across from where i work so I'll measure it up and have one made, probably put a 90 degree fitting on the engine side.Sometimes the line that comes in those kits falls right in the area of one length is barely too short and the next one is two feet too long.
I like making my own hose from -4 Teflon lined hose and just put my own ends on. Then the hose is the length.
Of course, if you are one of those guys who can reach into a basket of buttholes and pull out a rose, you'll get lucky and find a prefabbed kit the correct length. I never get that lucky. I reach in and get a handful poo.
BTW, I've seen way to many electric gauges that have a plus/minus accuracy that you'd be just as accurate with just a light.
And, I prefer the -4 hose size over the -3 stuff out there. The gauge is more sensitive with the bigger diameter hose.
There is a house of hose right across from where i work so I'll measure it up and have one made, probably put a 90 degree fitting on the engine side.
This is EXACTLY how you are supposed to do it. The loops are a stress relief on the copper line. Bend the line from the block connection to a point near to an engine bolt so you can put it through a clamp of some sort that is bolted down; that takes the stress off of the block connection where this broke. Then put loops in the run to the firewall.Braided line is best no doubt. An old hot rodder trick is to coil up a couple turns with the copper line instead of a straight shot from the block to the guage. Do like 2/3 loops about an 1 1/2" diameter before you run it through the firewall.
Also a vice grip; good for clamping off broken lines, (brake or oil!) So you can get home on your ownI have always worried about this....along with my spare ballast resistor and ignition box I carry the appropriate pipe plug just in case the oil line lets go, and a few select tools.
At least it didnt break inside the car....
braided hose on my to do list also.Buy better gauges.