How do I reinstall my timing damper without a threaded crank?

Slant 6 Engines

  1. wh23g3g

    wh23g3g Well-Known Member

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    How am I going to reinstall my damper on my 170? It didn't feel like the crank snout was threaded inside. It's a 66 170 motor. The engine ran smooth with this damper on there but it defnitely isn't new. I had it carefully bead blasted and repainted. The machine shop guy said they use to just beat them on there with the motors that didn't have threaded cranks. I don't know if this one is good enough to beat on. I don't where to get that tool they show in the 65 Plymouth service catalog. It looks like a pulley turned around backwards with a forcing screw pushing it on.
     
  2. godfatherofchry

    godfatherofchry Legandary Member Legendary Member

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    use a 2/4 about a foot long hold it flat on the damper with a 2lb hammer and tap it on. make sure your keyway is started it should slide on far enough by hand. and it dont hurt to put sum grees or oil over it were the seal slides over it.
     
  3. camd64

    camd64 Remember Landy

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    I do the same thing with the 2x4 on the dampner then smack it on. the only thing I add is I put a prybar at the back of the motor to keep pressure pushing the crank forward. that way when you are smacking it on you are less likely to damage the thrust bearing.
     
  4. Ceej

    Ceej Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure you don't have threads? A balancer installer is mandatory for all my builds. Check Summitracing.com or find a buddy with one. I have done a couple of '63's and they were definitely threaded....

    Holy toledo! Yes! Back up the crank if your going to smack it. :shock:

    CJ
     
  5. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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    I have never seen a slant six crank without threads. They are probably just filled with dirt. Clean the end of the crank, and use a 3/4-16 bolt and some large washers, to draw the damper on. Not sure, but I think Autozone has a damper installer, in their tool loaner program.
     
  6. wh23g3g

    wh23g3g Well-Known Member

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    I'll take a look again but it doesn't appear there was threads on the damper. The 65 Plymouth Chassis Manual shows a damper installation tool that doesn't thread into the crank but pulls the damper on by a forcing screw. That's the same kind of tool at Autozone which if mine is actually threaded it should work but if it's threaded I will just get a crank bolt. How many ft-lbs to tighten it? My 73 Charger 400 crank bolt was 135lbs-ft. A Slant Six would be less or the same?
     
  7. vynn3

    vynn3 Well-Known Member

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    I'm guessing the 40-year-old threads are full of dirt and muck. Every slant crank I've seen was threaded, but without the bolt, there's nothing to keep the threads clean.
     
  8. 340 Dart

    340 Dart I don't know shit.

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    My original motor, 66 Darts slant has threads on it. So does the slant in my 65 barracuda. They are both 225's though, not sure if it makes a difference.
     
  9. slantzilla

    slantzilla Banned

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    I've always just driven dampers on with a hammer and block. At Hyster that was the only way to put one back on a 3.0 with no threads in the crank. I have never seen a damaged thrust bearing either, no matter how hard it was to get the damper back on.
     
  10. 1wild&crazyguy

    1wild&crazyguy Banned

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    Or some what gently tap in a circular motion around the center with a 2 lb sledge.
    My brothers 66 valiant lost the cam gear and thats what I did to get the balancer back on after changing the time set with motor in car.
     
  11. 340 Dart

    340 Dart I don't know shit.

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    Well, if Slantzilla beats them on, then piss on it! Beat it on! :-D
     
  12. Eric_S68

    Eric_S68 Well-Known Member

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    I'll give you all, a trick to make life easier. Just use a large old pot with about 8-10 qts water and put the balancer in for a 20-30 minute boil. It will expand just enough, so ya can easily silde it on crank with minimal effort. Hammer n wood still helps. Dont forget, Thick gloves while handling the Balancer!

    :cheers:
     
  13. wh23g3g

    wh23g3g Well-Known Member

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    What about in the oven? Someone told me to put it in the oven. I don't know how long it can withstand though and at what temp. This damper was working good when the engine was running. It was running smoother than my 98 Ranger 4 cylinder. But the pressed in rubber was showing it's age with the edges starting to flake off. I had it lightly bead blasted by a machine shop and he said if it was running ok with it keep using it. I freshly painted it Chrysler red too, so I know the oven will make it cure more but I don't know what boiling would do. It's not a new engine anyway, seeing how nasty the inside of the engine was I can't believe it even ran after 2 years of sitting and who knows how many more previous years before that. It's got a pretty stout timing chain on though, definitely a double roller. So it may have been rebuilt sometime in the past.
     
  14. 1wild&crazyguy

    1wild&crazyguy Banned

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    boil water=20min?? could of tapped it on alreadyin 4min.. 'joke'
     
  15. camd64

    camd64 Remember Landy

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    maybe, but the one you do screw it up you will regret you didn't. better safe than sorry
     
  16. slantzilla

    slantzilla Banned

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    Right. We're working on a Slant here, not a Ferrari.

    If the rubber is flaking off and splitting the damper is already junk anyway.

    Google Damper Doctor and get yourself a rebuilt unit, or have yours rebuilt.
     
  17. camd64

    camd64 Remember Landy

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    50 bucks is 50 bucks, thats how I look at it.:-D
     
  18. BigWhip

    BigWhip New to Mopar land

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    Why don't you run a tap into the crank? If it's not taped, tap it.

    Whip
     
  19. wh23g3g

    wh23g3g Well-Known Member

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    I put the timing cover and the damper back on today. I let the damper sit in the direct sunlight while I was installing the timing cover. I greased up the crank snout with oil and anti-seize and then the same to the bore of the damper. It went on with a hammer and wood block in about 5-10mins. It was still kinda hard to get on. I don't know if I've hammered it on far enough. I can't remember is suppose to be almost touching the timing cover or is there some space behind there. I didn't have my new water pump or alternator on so I don't know if it's on far enough to line up the belt. I'll check it again next week when I finish up under the hood. If it works thats good it's a back up car next to my Charger and my daily driver. I'm keeping everything simple and original.
     
  20. wh23g3g

    wh23g3g Well-Known Member

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    Ok it's definitely threaded. I got the damper started on by greasing up the crank snout and the inside of the damper with anti-seize and oil. Now I want to pull it down with a tool or just insert a crank bolt. If I were to install a crank bolt what size threads do I need and how long? What torque should I torque it to? Can I just install a crank bolt and tighten it down to 135lbs-ft and then zip the bolt off and leave it pressed on like original?
     
  21. daredevil

    daredevil Well-Known Member

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    why dont you want the bolt?
     
  22. vynn3

    vynn3 Well-Known Member

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    Use the crank bolt from a small block V8:

    http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/cranbolpac1.html
     
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