How do I test my instrument cluster?

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LivewireBlanco

LivewireBlanco

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I had no dash lights except brake warning and right turn signal & no working fuel gauge. How do I go about this fix? I removed my cluster.

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Like Livewire said, your voltage limiter is goofed up. It didn't get plugged back in correctly. To test the cluster, you'll need a battery charger and a jumper wire. the cluster metal frame is the ground, or neg. side. Get some new bulbs and sockets for the missing ones, and it's easy to test the lights with a jumper wire. All the light sockets that share a pathway with a screw are the negative side. The opposite if the orange wire for the running light circuit.
For the gauges...If you put 12 v on the middle pin in the 2nd pic, with the voltage limiter plugged in corrrectly, you should have a "pulsed" 12v output on the next two to the right, or 5v average. If you briefly ground each of those two far right pins, the gauges should sweep to the maximum scale. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not sure what car the cluster is from.
 
dash10.jpg
While you're at this point its a golden opportunity to put in led lights. They will last the lifetime of your car and give you a brighter dash.
 
Do it right. You need to read this thread........

Printed circuit pins repair

You need some resistors or a variable resistor such as a fuel sender that you can adjust to different resistance to act as a sender

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You need to use a battery NOT a charger, and figure out how to substitute resistances shown in the photo for each sender. All 2 or 3 gauges should read the same with the same resistance, they are the same gauge movement.
 
In the first photo, with the ammeter, the pins left to right, you can follow the traces and see where they go, so L to R they are

1...and 4....the red warning lamp at the left

2....dash illumination lamps

3.....likely turn indicator

5....I believe hi beam indicator
 
The other photo, L to R

1... is dash illumination lamps

2...must be turn indicator

3...not sure might be +12 "switched ignition"

4...and 5.....sender for the two gauges
 
You can download wiring diagrams and factory manuals for free at MyMopar

WHAT YEAR is your car/ model?
 
67Dart273 said:
You can download wiring diagrams and factory manuals for free at MyMopar

WHAT YEAR is your car/ model?
Click to expand...
1971 Dart Swinger. I have the manual, just didn't know how to test VR or any of the lights. The only gauge I'm worried about is fuel. I have independent oil, volt and temp.
 
See the trace from the IVR leading off to the right to the two gauge studs? Goes in that one

Also, loosen/ tighten the gauge stud nuts, or better yet replace them. That will "scrub" corrosion off the trace

Check in the thread I posted about PC board repair that the pins at the connectors are in good shape AND THAT THE contacts of the IVR socket are making good connection

Replace the IVR with a solid state unit
 
67Dart273 said:
See the trace from the IVR leading off to the right to the two gauge studs? Goes in that one

Also, loosen/ tighten the gauge stud nuts, or better yet replace them. That will "scrub" corrosion off the trace

Check in the thread I posted about PC board repair that the pins at the connectors are in good shape AND THAT THE contacts of the IVR socket are making good connection

Replace the IVR with a solid state unit
Click to expand...
Is this solid state IVR something I can ask for at an Autozone?
 
For the led replacement I used Philips 194 led. Direct replacement, 12 year lifespan. Rock auto $5.28 each.
 
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