how do you get the starter on with headers?

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mac daddy mopar

mac daddy mopar

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I put the engine in the scamp and had one hell of a time geting the headers in, can I install the starter with them bolted up or do I have to unbolt the drivers side to get the starter on? any tips ? thanks in advance.
 
i personally dont know but my brother always had to drop that side when getting to starter but that was 30 years ago with a road runner with 440 good luck to you and 1 more point i read quite a lot of these posts and it seems they all agree with mini starter i think you might be able to cross reference one with a dakota for your motor but i am not sure
 
My Signet runs fenderwell headers and just installed the 360 today. Headers weren't on yet but even if they were I would have been able to install the mini starter
 
I always had to remove my header to install the stock starter.
I would replace it about every year with a new one.
The header heat would toast it.
Then i installed a mini starter and have not had a problem in three years.
It was a starter for a 94 dodge dakota truck with a v6 (3.9)
Also, you can change the mini starter with out removing the header.:-\"
 
T67POWER said:
I always had to remove my header to install the stock starter.
I would replace it about every year with a new one.
The header heat would toast it.
Then i installed a mini starter and have not had a problem in three years.
It was a starter for a 94 dodge dakota truck with a v6 (3.9)
Also, you can change the mini starter with out removing the header.:-\"
Click to expand...

Maybe, I bought a set of CPPA NOS headers and thought I had plenty of room for a mini starter. WRONG, the solenoid hit one of the tubes! Now if I bought one of the $350.00 clockable mini staters, it would have worked. But Noooooooooo, I fought the original size starter for 4 hrs to get it in. If I ever need to replace it, you can bet your sweet A$$ I'll spend the money for the clockable one!
 
I just used the mini starter with a set of hooker headers and it's pretty simple to remove install should the need arise.
 
I have summit long tube headers on my 318 in my duster and I have a full size starter and I installed it with headers in place and it wasnt to bad
 
When I put the 360 in,I learned I had to remove the starter first to bolt in the header,then leave the header loose to wedge the starter in.It was a sonofa btch to put in.If it takes a crap,im for sure geting a mini starter.Isnt there a heat blanket you can put on the starter?
 
in my small block valiant with headers, i leave the header alone and have to separate the steering linkage...
 
doug 371 said:
in my small block valiant with headers, i leave the header alone and have to separate the steering linkage...
Click to expand...

TRUE, I believe when I put my starter in that I had my steering connections un done still from when I installed the headers.

Either way, I would rather drop my steering components than dink around with unbolting the header lol
 
I have 2 dakota starters and 4-5 regular ones, the headers are headman, once the starters in place there is all kinds of room for either one, it just seems like with all that room they could have made a hole big enough to slide a starter in. lol. well I'm going to go try it again, thanks everyone.
 
I have hedman headers and you can install or remove either a full size or mini starter without removing the header. For the full size you need to seperate the inner tie rod from the pitman arm and turn the steering wheel full left to pull the pitman arm to the right for clearance. The mini just requires turning the wheel.
 
well it's in, I only lost a pint of blood and my religion, had to unhook the drag link, who ever put the tie rod on the car must have used loctight on the shaft, because I tore the **** out of my pickle fork, after beating on it fo an hour, I had the bright idea to put a pipe on it and see if I could pry it out, bent the hell out of the craftsman fork, didn't do a thing for the death grip the drag link had on the tie rod end, ( yes I took the nut off) I had to go buy a tierod / pitman arm puller to get it apart, now I know what to do, thank all for the fast replys, you guys are the best. Mark
 
You are better off using a tie rod puller especially if you plan to reuse them. These pullers are cheap enough, no more than a decent pickle fork and work without beating the snot out of the front end when using a pickle fork.

Gues I should have read your post completely. ;)
 
I had a '71 340 Duster,and I've got to say that had to be the biggest PITA I ever had !!! I too would say the MINI Starter !!:cheers:
 
when I took my steering apart I got out the pickel fork and hammered on it about 10 times and it didnt feel like it wanted to budge and my arm was getting tired and I BARELY tapped it and all of a sudden POP!!! it dropped right off LOL.

luckily the previous owner had went through all the suspension on the car and did new shocks and tierods and brakes and lines and so on and so on....so it wasnt 30 years worth of stuck lol.

I did however rip all my boots though so I went ahead nad replaced them with new red neopreme ones.
 
I never, ever use a pickle fork. They are a waste of time, and can easily damage what you're working on.

Two hammers, hitting on both sides of the joint you're trying to release at the same time will usually pop it off in a couple of whacks.
 
440source has one for $99. here is the link:
http://store.440source.com/High-Torque-Mini-Starter/productinfo/123-1000/

1231000.jpg
 
1994 Ram/Dakota V6 or V8 around $80. SOOOO Glad I put one in my car. Went right in without removing the header and cranks the engine over FAST!
 
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