How do you tighten the LCA shaft?

[Ironracer]

Right on Brother! I had to hit them today, working on a " stranded" chicks 94 iszuzu amigo 2.6... we did good the other day, in a field, in the ground, about 3 hours, Not being Stressed, but getting it, had every thing dropped. Then the pilot bearing was stuck, went back today, w/ a puller from *@&$ badvance, post had round claws,went to auto zone, a cool ol bro helped Mr with a Brand New puller attachment, but no slide hammer. I have this stuff at my other place, if it ain't been stolen. So I leave the Zone, go to HF, and grab the Last 2# slide puller. Tapped it right out. Bearing was partially froze, one way. So I test fit new one on the input shaft... ARRRGGGHH!. THANK GOD I did. We would have killed that transmission, as we may have been mad enough to use bolts to press it on, breaking the aluminum bell... anyhow, Ace is the Place, 80g emery cloth, and an hour of pretending to sand copper for sweating pipe, got it to fit. Wait... gets better! Was looking up torque specs... Manufacturer says don't reuse Flywheel bolts! And I'm not having much luck finding any. Thing needs to go tomorrow...

 

[Ironracer]

I actually had a mechanic rebuild the front suspension. About 2 months later, he quit and the body shop told me my car was done. I put it on the lift at my house and notice the LS brake and spindle were on the RS, and vice versa. I am now checking the torque on everything the mech did.

While correcting that, I noticed the upper ball joints castle nuts did not have cotter pins - not torqued, either. Lower joints had cotter pins, but were not torqued. That’s when I saw the strut shaft and the LCA nuts were finger tight, no cotter pins. So, I grumbled, set the ride height, torqued the strut shafts, then tried to tighten the LCA shafts - no dice. I tried it loaded and unloaded. I’ve tried it with impact- nut stays and shaft spins.

So, tomorrow I will get smaller vise grips and try again. Next one, I will do - and those damn pins will be modified for a box end.

Last resort is to pull the LCA’s. Can I just pull the torsion bar and tap the shafts out from behind?

I don't think so, but some of the Main Suspects ( lol) will correct us, of needed, always love and welcome all their advice! I lay in front, and push LCA to rear, after everything is outta the way

 

[RedFish]

I actually had a mechanic rebuild the front suspension. About 2 months later, he quit and the body shop told me my car was done. I put it on the lift at my house and notice the LS brake and spindle were on the RS, and vice versa. I am now checking the torque on everything the mech did.

While correcting that, I noticed the upper ball joints castle nuts did not have cotter pins - not torqued, either. Lower joints had cotter pins, but were not torqued. That’s when I saw the strut shaft and the LCA nuts were finger tight, no cotter pins. So, I grumbled, set the ride height, torqued the strut shafts, then tried to tighten the LCA shafts - no dice. I tried it loaded and unloaded. I’ve tried it with impact- nut stays and shaft spins.

So, tomorrow I will get smaller vise grips and try again. Next one, I will do - and those damn pins will be modified for a box end.

Last resort is to pull the LCA’s. Can I just pull the torsion bar and tap the shafts out from behind?

Where late model disc brakes are combined with pre 73 K member, the spindles are purposely switched side to side for sway bar clearance. Good luck with it

 

[Bobacuda]

OK, got the RS nut off. Could not get a “regular” vise grip on it, so I bought this type. Now to find nuts (NOT with dimpled, locking threads) that I can use to pull the shaft into place.

What about using red Locktite rather than the self locking nuts?

 

[512Stroker]

OK, got the RS nut off. Could not get a “regular” vise grip on it, so I bought this type. Now to find nuts (NOT with dimpled, locking threads) that I can use to pull the shaft into place.

What about using red Locktite rather than the self locking nuts?
View attachment 1715827666

Red would work if you dont plan on taking it apart.
Orange may be a better choice.

 

[Bobacuda]

About 8 hrs time, I have finally torqued the LCA shafts. The needle nose pliers were essential.

The LS side required immense cussing and finding the tiny gap the nose of the pliers would fit in to clasp the collar. Hours wasted.

The RS made the LS seem easy. Could not get to solidly attach to the collar on the shaft from the bottom - could barely see it. After trying and failing for about 2 hrs, I got the bright idea to remove the exhaust manifold and try from the top. That was the answer.

The attached photo shows the RS view from the top. The shiny part is the collar.

 

[Bobacuda]

Red would work if you dont plan on taking it apart.
Orange may be a better choice.

Thanks. Did not use Locktite because I finally got the shafts’ self anchoring nuts torqued down, on top to their split ring lock washers. Roughly 8 hrs to torque 2 nuts.

So glad I have a lift so I wasn’t crawling on the shop floor.

What a learning experience.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well, you got it done! Glad you got it licked!