F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
Hi All, Just putting the 1970 Rally dash back together after fixing the gas gauge ... and trying to see a ground point to the chassis. Is it just the mounting screws ? Thanks
how does it ground ??
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Yes, just the screws; and they're finicky. Always a good idea run a dedicated ground strap/wire.
F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much, easy to do when it is out
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Actually, there's a ground wire for the dash frame that runs from the dash on the passenger side to the body just above the passenger side kick panel.
Also , there is a ground strap that bridges the sending unit in the tank to the fuel line.
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F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
Hi, I don't see a point for it on the instrument cluster.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Its not on the cluster, the cluster bolts to the dash frame . The dash frame is then grounded to the body of the car via a black ground wire on the passenger side of the dash frame that is bolted to the body in the passenger side footwell.
F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
See post # 6
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Is there also a ground from dash to steering column?
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Yes there is.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Brown I think is heater ground. He said black wire.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
My car , 1968 Barracuda, has both. Attached to the same point.
What year make and model of mopar has this ground wire?
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
I found it on my 68 Barracuda Fastback when I disassembled it for a rotisserie restoration. I took every nut, bolt , washer, fastener , clip, wire and plug off the vehicle personally.
It is possible it was put there by someone else but it looked factory and didn't look disturbed when I took it off so I was careful to put it back where I found it.
F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
WOW !! a real labour of love. Have you progressed any further ? Any updated pictures or pictures of completed project. Thanks for the imput
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
On my '67 its a wire with two ring terminals the other end going to the radio supportscew where it mounts to the dash.
IVR on the Rally panel grounds as shown here
Gauge Cluster Issues/IVR
I have my dash apart on my 68 barracuda I am testing for continuity between circuits on the PCB. I have hooked an alligator clip up to the positive on the oil pressure gauge and then grounded the pins leading to the negative of each gauge oil, temp, fuel. The temp and fuel gauge sweep but the...
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Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Mattax, I think the IVR circuitry is located in the fuel gauge in a rallye dash. The lead you are showing is a ground for the noise suppresser.
Correct.
Follow the link for the IVR ground contact on the back of the fuel gage.
I was short on time so linked instead of copied those photos.
That's the rally dash ground and I don't know if the '70 used the same. The other end attaches to the strut support for the radio.
Yes. Behind the kickpanel was another ground wire which connects to the heater core.
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Yes. Behind the kickpanel was another ground wire which connects to the heater core.
Heater motor wire
I have looked over my service manual and can not find the two wires that leave the heater motor. The Dark green one goes to a resister, on top of the heater box. The other wire ( Brown) has an eyelet very close to the motor, with two wires, both Brown, may attach to the clamp for heater...
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F/A Tech
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for all the imput. I'm not sure if anyone can help me on this. When the key is in the "ON" position dash lights are working except the signal light indicators come on but are very dim ( the flasher & the outside lights are flashing fine) (This is the same with the Hazzard switch) When I start the car the indicator lights are good. It is like there is low voltage in the "ON" position until the car is running. I guess this is not a real problem, I was hoping someone could try their car and see if this in normal . I don't want to pull the ignition switch. Thanks
Part of it is the power supply.
Answer this. What is the max voltage the battery can supply power at? What is the normal votlage range for the alternator to supply voltage at?
Up to the welded splice current from each follows a different path.
Test for resistance in each using voltage drop.
Begin with a charged battery (use a charger) In fact for the is test you in some cases you could leave the charger on it.
Turn on something that draws power. The more power going through resistance the larger the voltge drop. V=I x R
The ammeter will show how much current is getting drawn from battery.
Measure the power supply voltage. Then go measure voltage differences from the power source (Bat positive) to other accesible locations along the feed circuit.
Then remove the charger, start the car and let the battery charge back up. When the ammeter shows zero charging, do the same checks as above but from the alternator's output stud.
Unless you have or make very long meter leads you may not be able to measure voltage drop all the way into the passenger compartment.
Options are:
A. Cheat. When the battery is supplying power, use the alternator's output wire as a lead extension going to the main splice.
^^This is actually a great place to begin.^^ It quickly reveals if there is a voltage drop between the battery positive and the main splice.
If there is none, or very small, then that whole feed line is OK.
Then start the engine. Once the battery is charged, turn the lights on, and do the same but with the high voltage lead (red) on the alternator poutput stud.
B. Measure voltage to ground, and subtract from voltage at power supply. This assumes no resistance in ground circuit. You can also check that, at least for the battery. Measure the votlage differnece from some place on the chassis to the battery negative terminal (not the clamp, the terminal) with the lights on or whatever your test item is.
Diagrams illustrating the method here:
www.forabodiesonly.com
Answer this. What is the max voltage the battery can supply power at? What is the normal votlage range for the alternator to supply voltage at?
Up to the welded splice current from each follows a different path.
Test for resistance in each using voltage drop.
Begin with a charged battery (use a charger) In fact for the is test you in some cases you could leave the charger on it.
Turn on something that draws power. The more power going through resistance the larger the voltge drop. V=I x R
The ammeter will show how much current is getting drawn from battery.
Measure the power supply voltage. Then go measure voltage differences from the power source (Bat positive) to other accesible locations along the feed circuit.
Then remove the charger, start the car and let the battery charge back up. When the ammeter shows zero charging, do the same checks as above but from the alternator's output stud.
Unless you have or make very long meter leads you may not be able to measure voltage drop all the way into the passenger compartment.
Options are:
A. Cheat. When the battery is supplying power, use the alternator's output wire as a lead extension going to the main splice.
^^This is actually a great place to begin.^^ It quickly reveals if there is a voltage drop between the battery positive and the main splice.
If there is none, or very small, then that whole feed line is OK.
Then start the engine. Once the battery is charged, turn the lights on, and do the same but with the high voltage lead (red) on the alternator poutput stud.
B. Measure voltage to ground, and subtract from voltage at power supply. This assumes no resistance in ground circuit. You can also check that, at least for the battery. Measure the votlage differnece from some place on the chassis to the battery negative terminal (not the clamp, the terminal) with the lights on or whatever your test item is.
Diagrams illustrating the method here:
Voltage Problem
Ok I'm having starting issues. I only have 8.5 volts at the coil. Not enough to start the car. If I run a jumper from a good 12 volt source to the coil car starts with no problem. Details include the following; MSD coil, MSD ready to run distributor. No MSD box. Any ideas on where to start?
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