How much power can a 440 block handle?

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03ramit1

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Ok I need to know whe weak points I'm looking to build a 440 stroker and going to hit it with boost. Hopeing to see at least 1400hp. let me get your thoughts on it. I'm looking to drop the hammer on a complete motor and trans, but if the block won't handle the power I'll have to look someplace else. I have not looked at casting numbers on the block yet, so I can't give that info just assume it's the weakest 440 casting. Next question will a 440 source stroker kit handle the power or do I need to look elsewhere? If so where? I'm a modern Hemi guy this big block thing is a whole new animal to me.
 
Go with a Mopar siamese race block. 800 is pushing a stock block imo! I am pushing a 400 to 800hp turbo'd!
 
If you're going to go that much horsepower it will never hold up. I would recommend an aftermarket block. Even then, I would do research. There are many threads about this subject on Abodies and some good books have been written also.
 
Interesting wonder how much HP I can get out of a stroker naturally aspirated. If the block will only hold 800 wonder what a small block will hold. I am really not wanting to buy an aftermarket block at this point in the game. It's just that I know how easy it is to make power with a turbo so I wanna go big.
 
Will a big block hold 800hp for the long hual? I'm looking at a street strip car. So it's gotta last. If I can get my car to run low 10's na with a big block I'll forget a turbo. And plan for it later. See the problem is I have owned the car for a year and have never driven it. It's time to get it out on the road I done wanna wait to save up for a block too.
 
grab a stock block and a complete girdle to hold the bottom together. bore it +.060" and add hard block up till it runs out of the water pump hole. that will hold up to what you want to do.
 
03ramit1 said:
Will a big block hold 800hp for the long hual? I'm looking at a street strip car. So it's gotta last. If I can get my car to run low 10's na with a big block I'll forget a turbo. And plan for it later. See the problem is I have owned the car for a year and have never driven it. It's time to get it out on the road I done wanna wait to save up for a block too.
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I agree with bObshingler!

As far as holding up to 800hp, that is the golden question. We will see soon. My 400 has a girdle, L19 Eagle H-beams, forged 383 crank, all balanced. Block was line bored.
The 440 I just pulled had close to 500hp with the 6 pack setup and it was pretty mild. Ran on 92 octane. This with the 4 speed was quite a handful to drive on the street with 3.91's. Crap for mileage though, maybe 9 mpg.
On another note, my 514" 460 2 bolt main truck block with a Canton girdle, Eagle nodular crank and Oliver rods has been going strong for 3 seasons at 945hp @ the crank. 8.40s @ 162mph. Pretty impressive if I may say for a stock block!
 
im going to do a stock 440 block with a scat 4.25 superlight crank BME Aluminum Rods and some ross Nitrous costom pistons 10.5 to 1 and run a 300+ shot and i think it will hold up
 
If you are concerning yourself with any longevity...Naturally aspirated, a good sonic tested block with proper prep will go 800hp or so for a while. Eventually, the main webbing will frature and that will be that. If you run a crank driven blower, again, with proper prep, I don't think 1000hp is out of the realm of possible for a while. But, why anyone would not spend on a much better block to begin with is beyond me. Because when they do fail, they take everything else with them...lol. The proper prep is caps, girdle, oiling system work, and possible hard block. By the time you're done, you have sropped 75% of the cost of a new better block and that's the cobbled together foundation for a big expensive engine. Spend the extra $$ and get longevity and rebuildability.
 
IDK jack about alot of things, however, IMO, wouldn't a race block really be what you would want to do BIG HP with?

Disagree with the "+060 overbore" mention. Less boreing out, the better, for stronger less flexable cyclinder walls.
 
moper said:
If you are concerning yourself with any longevity...Naturally aspirated, a good sonic tested block with proper prep will go 800hp or so for a while. Eventually, the main webbing will frature and that will be that. If you run a crank driven blower, again, with proper prep, I don't think 1000hp is out of the realm of possible for a while. But, why anyone would not spend on a much better block to begin with is beyond me. Because when they do fail, they take everything else with them...lol. The proper prep is caps, girdle, oiling system work, and possible hard block. By the time you're done, you have sropped 75% of the cost of a new better block and that's the cobbled together foundation for a big expensive engine. Spend the extra $$ and get longevity and rebuildability.
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I get your point. But I'm building from nothing here. And want to stay within the power limits of the stock block. Just looking to see where they fail. and it appears I am seeing the error of my was and should just continue with my regular plan and use the 5.7 Hemi that's currently in the car. It appears that it will hold more powerthan the older blocks.
 
03ramit1 said:
I get your point. But I'm building from nothing here. And want to stay within the power limits of the stock block. Just looking to see where they fail. and it appears I am seeing the error of my was and should just continue with my regular plan and use the 5.7 Hemi that's currently in the car. It appears that it will hold more powerthan the older blocks.
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Now the lights coming on..... :) I went this route for months and ended up buying a 6.1 Hemi. I'm glad I did. New technology, cheaper, etc. Good luck!
 
jdakota said:
Now the lights coming on..... :) I went this route for months and ended up buying a 6.1 Hemi. I'm glad I did. New technology, cheaper, etc. Good luck!
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I have been building the new hemi's for years. Just thought if an old block would handle the power I would try something different. That light has been on for a long time.
 
my STOCK block 440/499 made 825h.p. NA and lasted over 10 yrs of heavy street use and many many track passes ! (ask Rumblefish)
I never did ,and maybe would have went a few more years but adding a stud girdle in the bottom seems to stiffen these up some so I have been told ......
440/505 motor now has this girdle in and is pushing some big #'s with a BIG BDS Blower on it so we will see......
 
You should have added that the engine was burdoned at the track with a all steel/full interior 69 Dart running the low 9's. I also give alot of credit to the 8-3/4 holding up for a long time as well.
How you drovethat everyday all day to every where you needed to be was a "HOLY COW" thing to me. Running that race fuel everyday. WHEW!
 
rumblefish360 said:
You should have added that the engine was burdoned at the track with a all steel/full interior 69 Dart running the low 9's. I also give alot of credit to the 8-3/4 holding up for a long time as well.
How you drovethat everyday all day to every where you needed to be was a "HOLY COW" thing to me. Running that race fuel everyday. WHEW!
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It was Fun !! best time was watching you **** in your pants on the short pass down Sunrise hwy !!
the car smelt like crap for 2 weeks because of you !! LOL

ooo and that rear let loose once at a mopar rental, after that billet caps kept it all tight !
p.s. the motor finally let loose at another mopar rental !! I think she only liked beating up Chevys and fords
 
540Valiant said:
Add a Dan Dvorak 4-bolt main kit to your stock block. It will strengthen that 440 right up.
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Not in any appreciable way it won't. It might limit cap walk, but that's not the problem. It might limit cap flex and distortion. But again, that's nott he problem. The problem is the main webbing, and the stiffer and more rigid you make the caps/pan rail, the more stress goes directly to the webbing. The best answer, if a stock block HAD to be used, would be 2-bolt aluminum caps. These will flex a little, but save the block for a long time.
 
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