How much power...

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75hang10

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I'm clueless and need some help here. I bought a dart a while back and i really don't know my *** from my elbow when it comes to wrenching or how much power this thing has. It doesn't feel like enough though. so questions are, how much hp does this thing have and how much hp would it take to make it feel fast.

Specs -
75 dart
318 engine (from an early 80s mopar truck - maybe a jeep)
I was told it has a 'mild cam'
5.9 heads
4bbl 650cfm carb (I think. Wouldn't be 750 right?)
No headers, but 2.25" exhaust from the manifolds back
Dual exhaust w/ flowmasters and 'h-pipe'
904 trans
7.25 rear end
Pain to start on anything less than premium gas

This is my first old car and first non-fuel-injected car so I'm not really sure what its supposed to feel like. To me, it feels slow of the line. Sometimes bogs down when you floor it if it hasn't been running long (even in summer heat). On the highway, it feels much better like it's made for high RPMs. Can only break the tires loose when punching it and cornering or if I start to load the gas pedal while having a foot on the breaks. Previous owner told me he would guess maybe 275hp. Could that be right?

How much power do you think it has?
How much power would make it feel fast off the line?
How much power would I need to be able to floor it and spin tires off the line? (Got new BFGoodrich Radial T/As)
 
75hang10 said:
I'm clueless and need some help here. I bought a dart a while back and i really don't know my *** from my elbow when it comes to wrenching or how much power this thing has. It doesn't feel like enough though. so questions are, how much hp does this thing have and how much hp would it take to make it feel fast.

Specs -
75 dart
318 engine (from an early 80s mopar truck - maybe a jeep)
I was told it has a 'mild cam'
5.9 heads
4bbl 650cfm carb (I think. Wouldn't be 750 right?)
No headers, but 2.25" exhaust from the manifolds back
Dual exhaust w/ flowmasters and 'h-pipe'
904 trans
7.25 rear end
Pain to start on anything less than premium gas

This is my first old car and first non-fuel-injected car so I'm not really sure what its supposed to feel like. To me, it feels slow of the line. Sometimes bogs down when you floor it if it hasn't been running long (even in summer heat). On the highway, it feels much better like it's made for high RPMs. Can only break the tires loose when punching it and cornering or if I start to load the gas pedal while having a foot on the breaks. Previous owner told me he would guess maybe 275hp. Could that be right?

How much power do you think it has?
How much power would make it feel fast off the line?
How much power would I need to be able to floor it and spin tires off the line? (Got new BFGoodrich Radial T/As)
Click to expand...

auto what what does it stall at.(rpm)

What rpm does it fall off 4-5-5500 rpm?

What is the ign timing set at?

You side it has 5.9 heads .....Magnum heads???????
 
Headers would be the first bolt one i would do. big jump in the way it would feel.
 
Yes, should be the magnum heads.
Ignition timing - no clue
No clue what it stalls at
no clue what RPMs it falls at

Doesn't have a tach. I mentioned in my OP the RPMs based on sound. Forgot to mention it does have a Lokar Kickdown. But as I said, I'm not much of a wrencher so I don't even really get what it does. Is there an easy way to get answers to the stall and timing questions you had?

Is it worth adding a tach to see RPM just diagnostically?
 
75hang10 said:
Yes, should be the magnum heads.
Ignition timing - no clue
No clue what it stalls at
no clue what RPMs it falls at

Doesn't have a tach. I mentioned in my OP the RPMs based on sound. Forgot to mention it does have a Lokar Kickdown. But as I said, I'm not much of a wrencher so I don't even really get what it does. Is there an easy way to get answers to the stall and timing questions you had?

Is it worth adding a tach to see RPM just diagnostically?
Click to expand...

If you plan on leaving it in drive (D) then you would need the tach for diag only.........In my opinion you need a tach.

With a tach you can hold you foot firmly on the brake while you mash the throttle(note do this for only long enough to see what it stalls at. as this make lots of damaging heat in the transmission) and see what rpm(requires tach) the eng will rev up too.

You need a tach also to see what rpm the eng falls off.

If i had to guess what you have in your combination, i would say that you have a stock converter,(need more stall then stock with a bigger cam), timing not set properly and way to tall of gears,....like 2.76's(3.55's are a nice street gear.)
 
first thing you need to do is ditch the 7.25, even an 8.25 would be better.
 
yep the 7 1/4 needs to go and 3.23 0r 355's gears according to your driveing plans, Hard to guess on h.p. if the block wasn't zero decked the 5.9 heads probley hurt your power. A 75 318 stock had 145 h.p the early to mid 80's 318 is only 130 h.p.
 
Cudafever said:
With a tach you can hold you foot firmly on the brake while you mash the throttle(note do this for only long enough to see what it stalls at. as this make lots of damaging heat in the transmission) and see what rpm(requires tach) the eng will rev up too.

You need a tach also to see what rpm the eng falls off.

If i had to guess what you have in your combination, i would say that you have a stock converter,(need more stall then stock with a bigger cam), timing not set properly and way to tall of gears,....like 2.76's(3.55's are a nice street gear.)
Click to expand...

OK, so are we talking literally flooring it or standing on the breaks and steadily building on the gas until it stalls out like a manual transmission car not getting enough gas?
 
If your short on $$ and want to hold out for a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 you could find a sure grip for the 7 1/4 and toss that in, it will add a lot of strength to the little guy. not a long term thing but might work for you for a while with your lower HP setup.
 
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