How much roll bar or cage is needed for 10.00 & slower

-
MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2019
Messages
10,547
Reaction score
11,304
Location
Yakima Wa
Getting ready to put another roof skin on my dart & think it would be a great time to do any roll cage work before. My car is hopefully going to run between 10.00 - 10.20s, (probably not the 1st run or day) but I just wanted to know what I'll need. Thank you
 
10.00 and slower....roll bar with driver side bar

9.99999999 and faster....roll cage...plus alot of stuff needs to be sfi certified.
 
So a 6 point roll bar is required.
Which one is recommended by you guys ?
 
Custom's always best. Chris Alston Chassisworks can build one to your measurements. Or you could have a local fab shop bend you a main hoop and A-pillar bars. Everything else you can use straight sticks for.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
So a 6 point roll bar is required.
Which one is recommended by you guys ?
Click to expand...
I think I used the summit one which was like a moroso roll bar. It comes in an eight point with the fish plates and so forth. It's not that expensive I remember being under $200 but it was an extra $100 for shipping cuz it was heavy as hell.. really just welding it in there to your personal safety standards is all that's needed for above 10 seconds. Like stated they get kind of crazy under 10 seconds and things get expeditiously expensive all around under 10...
 
j par said:
I think I used the summit one which was like a moroso roll bar. It comes in an eight point with the fish plates and so forth. It's not that expensive I remember being under $200 but it was an extra $100 for shipping cuz it was heavy as hell.. really just welding it in there to your personal safety standards is all that's needed for above 10 seconds. Like stated they get kind of crazy under 10 seconds and things get expeditiously expensive all around under 10...
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks jpar
 
mopowers said:
Custom's always best. Chris Alston Chassisworks can build one to your measurements. Or you could have a local fab shop bend you a main hoop and A-pillar bars. Everything else you can use straight sticks for.
Click to expand...
Alright thanks, my bosses to friend builds his roundy round car cages so I should be able to get some help.
 
What I liked about the morelso one for my duster is that who was perfect for at least my Duster. I didn't have to cut it trim it or do anything... But there is a lot of cutting and trimming on the straight bars and they are heavy steel so it doesn't come easy... Getting 30° angles cuts with a rounded pocket in them...
 
MOPARMAGA said:
So a 6 point roll bar is required.
Which one is recommended by you guys ?
Click to expand...
It depends on how stock your floor and firewall are. My car with an aluminum floor and moved back firewall had to have a full cage, and I still had to add a knee bar and a rocker panel bar. And I made sure I didn't go nines with it, (at least not too often).
 
So my car will be stock firewall & floor until I learn how to do & have the tools to do that. No offense but the political climate makes me just want to safely get my car done
 
MOPARMAGA said:
So my car will be stock firewall & floor until I learn how to do & have the tools to do that. No offense but the political climate makes me just want to safely get my car done
Click to expand...

Will the car be a strictly race car or street/strip car? If it's going to be strictly a race car I'd do a cage now and be done with it.

Here's my thought on it. For a 6 pt roll bar the main hoop is larger in diameter than when you do a full cage. If you were to convert your 6 pt roll bar to a cage later it will add a few extra lbs than if you just started with a cage. Your going to have the roof off, so now is the time to do it access to weld EVERYTHING the way it really needs to be done. Plus you plan on running low 10s at some point so what's to say you won't want to dip into the 9s at a later date.
 
moparstud440 said:
Will the car be a strictly race car or street/strip car? If it's going to be strictly a race car I'd do a cage now and be done with it.

Here's my thought on it. For a 6 pt roll bar the main hoop is larger in diameter than when you do a full cage. If you were to convert your 6 pt roll bar to a cage later it will add a few extra lbs than if you just started with a cage. Your going to have the roof off, so now is the time to do it access to weld EVERYTHING the way it really needs to be done. Plus you plan on running low 10s at some point so what's to say you won't want to dip into the 9s at a later date.
Click to expand...
Yes, you're right. That's a good point. The plan is strictly race car so it won't hurt to build a cage to go faster
 
Agree^^^. Now is the time to do a cage. There may come a day when 10.65 seems slow and easy, and a 200hp nitrous system can get you 9.50.
I put all the nine second safety stuff on my car, but slowed it to low 10s to avoid chassis cert/licensing woes/ five layer suit on 110° days, gloves, collar, and who knows what else.
 
If I was to do it over again I would put a swing out on the driver's door...
Of course I cut my cage back out and put a more reasonable cam and other things to make it more of a driver...
 
j par said:
If I was to do it over again I would put a swing out on the driver's door...
Of course I cut my cage back out and put a more reasonable cam and other things to make it more of a driver...
Click to expand...
My new car has a swing out bar. It is handy for entry for a car where I am sitting basically in the back seat. Also nice that it can be removed when working in the interior. It has a removable steering wheel too.
But my 62 has a fixed side bar cause it's only an eight point bar, and it hasn't been an access problem yet, and I'm a month from 69. You just learn how to get in and out till it becomes second nature.
 
33IMP said:
My new car has a swing out bar. It is handy for entry for a car where I am sitting basically in the back seat. Also nice that it can be removed when working in the interior. It has a removable steering wheel too.
But my 62 has a fixed side bar cause it's only an eight point bar, and it hasn't been an access problem yet, and I'm a month from 69. You just learn how to get in and out till it becomes second nature.
Click to expand...
Like I said I cut that all out of there and I'm learning to deal with a cam that idles and air conditioning that blows ice cold LOL...
And a nice cozy comfortable bucket seat...
I also put a 100/150/200 shot on it in case things need to get stupid...:D..
 
I would think about chrome moly as it's lighter. It is a little more money but just think you'll save on shipping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top