How to remove PS box

-
F

FrozenCaveman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
111
Reaction score
5
Location
Davis, CA
Hi all,

The power steering on my /6 71 Scamp has been leaking from the steering box for some time now, and having just replaced the dash and put some torque on the steering shaft, I think I finally killed the steering shaft seal. It mostly leaks around the steering shaft, with a little bit leaking at the pitman arm seal. I decided to take the box out and replace both seals.

I had a helluva time removing the pitman arm from the center link - took about 50 whacks with a 2 lb hammer (didn't have much leverage under there). Got the dowel pin out on the steering shaft, removed 2 of the 3 chassis bolts... So now I've got 1 chassis bolt left and before I do that, I had a couple questions.

1) How do I separate the steering box from the column? Haynes guide is all I have and it doesn't say to remove the column. Do I need to loosen the column and pull it towards the driver seat? It seems like I would need to...

2) Good technique for supporting the box while I'm unbolting the PS box (and then also bolting it back in)? A jack?

3) Haynes guide says to mark the pitman arm on the output shaft of the box - I don't think the steering shaft can be misoriented, right? It can only go on there one way, it seems, with the dowel.

4) Any gotchas that I might be missing? I understand that removing the pitman arm seal might've been easier if I'd blown it out with it still connected to the pump, but I decided that removing the arm was going to be easier on a bench. Hopefully not a regrettable course of action.

Thanks in advance for any assistance,

John
 
IIRC once you have the rod out of the coupler I think the coupler slides down and allows the steering shaft enough "play" to come out.
the box is heavy but not that heavy maybe put a loose bolt back into a free hole sort of like a pin then simply pull the "pin" once it is all unbolted and make sure you have a good grip on it? a milk crate comes to mind though.
there is a gotcha = the spring inside the coupler has those holders in it (the "H" looking things) and they can be a PITA if your not ready for them
also the retainer ring (coupler cap) can be a true hassle to reattach
s-l300.jpg
 
The pin that you removed from the coupler does not really "locate" the shaft. The steering wheel needs to be centered. When you pull back the coupler to separate the box from the column you will see that there is a master spline on the box shaft. This is what "orientates' the column and the box. The pitman arm also has a master spline and should be re-installed in the same way as removed.
 
I've always knocked the split pin out holding box coupling to shaft and removed steering column along with box coupling. And I stated that backward. Unbolt the column first. Stack some books or something in the seat to catch support under the steering wheel. Makes it easier going back together too. I never even considered taking their feckin bottle cap off the box coupling unless rebuilding the coupling itself.
There's a tiny notch filed in the edge of the box coupling marking where its internal master spline is. Some pitman arms have 4 master splines so the arm could go on in 4 different positions. I forget if this is Chrysler, or Ford, or other. You'll need to center the steering gear before attaching the pitman arm regardless.
 
RedFish said:
I've always knocked the split pin out holding box coupling to shaft and removed steering column along with box coupling. And I stated that backward. Unbolt the column first. Stack some books or something in the seat to catch support under the steering wheel. Makes it easier going back together too. I never even considered taking their feckin bottle cap off the box coupling unless rebuilding the coupling itself.
There's a tiny notch filed in the edge of the box coupling marking where its internal master spline is. Some pitman arms have 4 master splines so the arm could go on in 4 different positions. I forget if this is Chrysler, or Ford, or other. You'll need to center the steering gear before attaching the pitman arm regardless.
Click to expand...
cool! so in this case OP could simply slide the column back a few inches and maybe bungee cord it still while he does the rebuild...??
beware = those coupling shoes do wear out but if theres no play I like the idea of leaving it as is :thumbsup:
 
Wow, thanks for the quick replies! That diagram helps - I had no idea it was that complex. I should have said that I removed the roll pin - I have not touched the dowel pin. Based on your comments, I think I'll pull back the steering column (again - I've been through dash pod removal 3 times in the last 2 months for a speedo repair).

I keep reading about the master spline - hopefully it makes sense when I see it - and hopefully orientation isn't a pain when I put it back together. Presently, the steering wheel is not centered, and I have the wheels turned to the left. I recall I had trouble accessing the roll pin with the steering centered, but sounds like I should recenter everything before removal.
 
lilfontleroy said:
cool! so in this case OP could simply slide the column back a few inches and maybe bungee cord it still while he does the rebuild...??
beware = those coupling shoes do wear out but if theres no play I like the idea of leaving it as is :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Perxactly. The only downside is with column shift. The column rarely bolts back in exactly the same spot. If linkage changes / neutral safety switch adjustment is lost... you have to crawl under at trans to correct it. Shifter in neutral position, Loosen one bolt in adjust block, check trans lever is centered in neutral, retighten bolt. Done
HHMMMM. with steering centered the split pin should be vertical at engine side of coupling. Master spline at top. Drive pin straight down and out. Maybe you have headers in the way.
 
Bah, I don't know what I was doing - roll pin hole is vertical with the steering centered, so nm what I said. :p

I assumed it would be obvious how to remove the column (Haynes guide no use). I removed the 4 short bolts from the column support bracket near the steering wheel, the 2 bolts at the firewall collar, and the pin from the column shift linkage (sadly yes, column shift, so thanks for the heads up). What else needs to be removed? I've got about 1/2 to 1" of play and then it doesn't pull any further. Not sure what I'm hitting against.
 
I guess I don't understand why folks are showing you how to disassemble the coupler when all you want to do is take the whole column out... the coupler stays attached to the steering column.

Once you have the coupler roll-pin out you just use a good sized pry-bar to gently work the coupler up and off the spline on the steering gear. If it has never been removed before you may have to hit the splines and where the roll pin was with some penetrating oil, but really that's it.

It sounds like you have all the rest of the bolts off that would hold the column in the car.

One word of advice is, do not try to pull the column up and out with the coupler still attached to the steering gear. The steering shaft typically goes up into a hollow tube that is held in place with a few plastic pins. If you push or pull too hard on the column and it sheers the pins and the steering may feel a bit sloppy after that. The pins are in there so if you get into a crash the column doesn't skewer you or crush a steering wheel into your face.

(I see RedFish pretty much said what I just did. What I get for posting at work and leaving my post in draft too long, lol.)
 
Last edited:
Got it. Yeah, as far as I know, it's never been removed. The car has been in the family since new. I'll try gently prying it apart at the steering box shaft. Thanks for the tip.
 
Pry bar moved it about another 1/4". I can see the end of the splines through the roll pin hole, so I sprayed it down with PB Blaster and I'll let it set for a bit. Starting to rain here (car is outside), so if it picks up, I may be out of luck for a while.

I also think I see what must be a master spline on the top of the steering shaft. It's like a dead spot with no spline. Is that the only one like it on the steering shaft?
 
The splines are cut in half by the groove for split pin so they do tend to bind. This is where I found a stack of shop manuals in the drivers seat really helps align when sliding the coupling off and back on again. Of course the column does need to drop a couple inches to clear it support studs but that doesn't cause a lot of binding. Prevents stressing the wiring connections also. Use a pickle fork to push box coupling to steering wheel a few inches away from steering gear.
3 bolts at firewall plate, 2 studs at upper support. One of those will have 2 nuts. the added nut to attach a ground jumper. The third piece of hardware in column support, lower on right side, is a bolt into a caged nut. Do not cross thread when going back together. It ruined my day. I wont ever carry my air ratchet under there again.
 
LOL - funny you mentioned the pickle fork. I was using a small crowbar and although I didn't scratch anything, it occured to me that I might do some damage if I wasn't careful. I happened to have a pickle fork right there and it fit perfectly.

I separated the input shaft, got the last bolt on the box out, while inserting an allen wrench into one of the bolt holes to keep the box from dropping. Then after wiggling it around a bit, couldn't figure out where it was bound up - the allen wrench, of course. LOL

Now the rain's coming down pretty good, so I think I'm done for a bit. Just a sanity check here, but I should be pulling the box up and out rather than down and under, correct? Leaving the pitman arm on there is making it more of a challenge to pull it out, but hopefully it's not a showstopper. I know they sell the box with the arm attached, so it must fit in there with or without.
 
If you remove split pin at yoke, you only have to move that yoke back about 1". You usually don't have to touch the column. Let's keep this simple.
 
Lots of discussion about the steering coupler, all goid advice. but no mention of beating on pitman arm to remove it from steering box. Please dont. A pitman puller is less than 20 dollars and money well spent.
I will never beat on a pitman arm,as the possible damage to steering box could be fatal.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Lots of discussion about the steering coupler, all goid advice. but no mention of beating on pitman arm to remove it from steering box. Please dont. A pitman puller is less than 20 dollars and money well spent.
I will never beat on a pitman arm,as the possible damage to steering box could be fatal.
Click to expand...

THIS The one at Horrid Freight works well enough. So far as the coupler, I usually pry it back some, then insert a large end wrench for a spacer so I can pry some more. They do get rusty. You need a large proper diameter punch long enough to "get up" where you can hammer on the pin. HF has pin punches, too
 
I wasn't able to use the Harbor Freight pitman arm puller on the center link (couldn't grab on anything) - there's probably a more appropriate tool for the job out there, but from what I understand (from more than one source, including a local fellow), it's perfectly OK to use a hammer on the end of the pitman arm where it meets the center link. By momentarily distorting the joint, the theory (and practice) is that the center link and the pitman arm will naturally separate. FWIW, I was hitting directionally on the end of the pitman arm towards the output shaft, not side to side, which would have put more stress on the output shaft. Not that anyone here recommended it, but there seems to be a camp out there that believes it's OK to use a pickle fork on the center link. I envisioned that as a last resort, since I wasn't willing to risk damaging the center link.

For sure I will be using the puller on the pitman arm to output shaft - no doubt about that. While I was trying to figure out how to remove the center link, I did borrow a massive pitman arm puller from NAPA. It's an adjustable Evercraft puller (776-1078) that I will probably use to get the arm off the box. It seems more durable that the Harbor Freight one. Would kinda suck if it broke on me, though, since they charged me $84 as a deposit. It probably would have fit around the center link/pitman arm joint, but the exhaust was in the way as far as setting it up.
 
i got the impression that you hammered the pitman to release it from the steering box,but i see now it was at the centre link.
There are a variety of tools for getting them loose, but the hammer method is usually the quickest.two hammers,with the part between them. Bigger hammer as an anvil of sorts.
 
Darticon said:
I guess I don't understand why folks are showing you how to disassemble the coupler when all you want to do is take the whole column out... the coupler stays attached to the steering column.
Click to expand...
I have to admit that any time I have dealt with steering issues its been because the steering was sloppy and I determined the issue was inside the coupler so of course my answers draw upon my experience. Just IF advise not intended to be "be all end all" A-Z how to.
 
lilfontleroy said:
I have to admit that any time I have dealt with steering issues its been because the steering was sloppy and I determined the issue was inside the coupler so of course my answers draw upon my experience. Just IF advise not intended to be "be all end all" A-Z how to.
Click to expand...

No worries. I wasn't trying to start anything. Just didn't want him thinking he had to rebuild the coupler to take out the steering column. I ended up not seeing the later posts that cleared that up before posting my own anyway, so my bad.
 
I do appreciate all the input - everyone has a different technique on doing things, and I can learn from all of them. If I end up needing to rebuild my coupler, I've got the advice right here.
 
Made a little bit more progress this week. I got the box out, degreased it with OzzyJuice (really cool stuff), and separated the pitman arm after marking the location. Opened the box up and replaced the input shaft seal and the big o-ring there.

Still to do:

1) Figure out how to get the pitman arm seal out so as to replace it.

2) The steering shaft kit came with a big o-ring, the seal, and a tiny o-ring - anyone know what the tiny o-ring is for?

3) Replace the pitman arm bushing, which was either trashed previously or as a result of my efforts to separate the center link. Anyone know where to get a replacement bushing? NAPA didn't have one and without buying a new pitman arm, not sure where to get it.

3) Paint

4) Install


-John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top