How to remove this #$%$#* bolt

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photorep

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Hi....Help please...This is a 360 that I picked up on Craigslist. It supposedly was rebuilt, driven about 10,000 miles then parked for 10-12 years. I started disasembling the top end to take a look inside and of course, immediately ran into a problem. The center head bolt between the 4th and 5th valve is so close to the valve springs, I can't get a socket or a wrench in there to loosen it. I have also included pictures of the casting #'s, so if any of you can shed some light on what the heads are, I would appreciate it. This is my first attempt on completely rebuilding an engine so this may turn into a long lasting thread,,,,,thanks guys
 

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I've never had a problem getting at the head bolts, try a thinwall socket first and if that doesn't work pull the valve retainer and spring. Since you're pulling it apart it won't matter if the valves drop into the chambers. Just don't turn over the motor till you get that head off. Thinwall socket first!!!!
 
If I have to pull the valve retainer, would I need a spring compression tool???
 
The head bolts between the springs can be a little tricky if the springs have been upgraded. 1/2" drive stuff usually won't fit, 3/8" drive sockets usually can squeak in there.

If not, try getting a thin wall socket. Most common application for that size is going to be a lug nut socket, they make thin wall sockets to fit into the rims. I usually try not to frequent Harbor Freight for tools, but I seem to recall them having a thin wall lug nut socket set that was pretty inexpensive...

Edit:
** Wow that's a lot of posts. Guess I took too long to type!**
 
Angle the socket in between the springs and push hard when doing this. You won't get it in there attacking straight down.

I've stuffed a bunch of std size craftsman sockets on those bolt heads over the years.
 
I use a socket over the valve then whack it with a hammer a couple times and your valve keepers should pop out. Work pretty fast for tearing them apart but cant be put together like that lol but be warned whacking a spring with a hammer will cause it to bounce back towards your face . Ask me how i know haha another also also keepers can go wandering off with this method so be prepared to search for one or two that get away
 
Crackedback has the answer, i use a ccraftsman 1/2 drive and it fits fine even with aftermarket springs, it just rubs on the spring a little but you just have to angle it in there
 
Angle the socket in between the springs and push hard when doing this. You won't get it in there attacking straight down.

I've stuffed a bunch of std size craftsman sockets on those bolt heads over the years.

X2 A little more patience along with a little more persuasion will do the trick here, no need to buy more tools you'll never use again...
 
Angle the socket in between the springs and push hard when doing this. You won't get it in there attacking straight down.

I've stuffed a bunch of std size craftsman sockets on those bolt heads over the years.

wrjjol.jpg


You have to angle it, and sort of, "move" the springs a little

Crackback, I'll see your bouncing girl and raise you..................

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OK...I guess you just have to be forceful....I put the socket on an extension and gave it a whack with a rubber mallet....and bam...right in.
Now the bolts are out, but I can't get the head loose. I tried prying, whacking with a block of wood and no dice...what next??? Also, do those casting numbers mean anything that I should know???
 
Just be REAL darn sure you pulled ALL the bolts!!!!
 
If I remember correctly
 

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Screw one bolt back in a few threads to hold the head on. You don't need it fallin on your foot. That would suck.
 
What SS said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That would be bad

Looking at the intake ports it looks like the heads have been
ported/worked on to match an intake.
 
I've had good luck whacking it with a dead blow hammer pretty hard in a few different spots. make sure you use a nice strong spot where your not going to break anything or screw up gasket areas. Then sometimes after that it pulls rite off. If it doesn't get out the pry bar, you should be able to pry on one of the ends of the head. you might be able to thread a bolt in the end of the head to pry off of too. The dead blow will have helped loosen things up so it should come off with the pry bar. once again don't pry from a weak spot and don't mess up your gasket surfaces and don't drop the head.
 
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