How To Replace Trunk Torsion Springs with Lift Struts

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Started on it yesterday, I will post Pics and info soon!!!:thumbsup:
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Still no pics?
Was hoping we could figure tis out so others may learn...
 
I did the measuring mounted & welded the nuts to the hinge lowered the trunk lid 6 inches , mounted the strut rod a close to the floor as I could ( as per instructions) I even removed some of the hinge support to get the strut rod as close to the floor as I could. I went to close it and the strut rod bent and the nut I welded in popped out. rewelded the nut on the hinge, this time not wanting to take any chances I welded the washers also. mounted everything went to close it and bent the second pair of strut rods.

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I did the measuring mounted & welded the nuts to the hinge lowered the trunk lid 6 inches , mounted the strut rod a close to the floor as I could ( as per instructions) I even removed some of the hinge support to get the strut rod as close to the floor as I could. I went to close it and the strut rod bent and the nut I welded in popped out. rewelded the nut on the hinge, this time not wanting to take any chances I welded the washers also. mounted everything went to close it and bent the second pair of strut rods.

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just a guess but i'd say you had something out of alignment or at a weird angle.
 
Tim mentioned placing reaward bolt so nut is to the outside pointing to the tire, perhaps thats what caused it?
Looks like that in the photo.
 
I did the measuring mounted & welded the nuts to the hinge lowered the trunk lid 6 inches , mounted the strut rod a close to the floor as I could ( as per instructions) I even removed some of the hinge support to get the strut rod as close to the floor as I could. I went to close it and the strut rod bent and the nut I welded in popped out. rewelded the nut on the hinge, this time not wanting to take any chances I welded the washers also. mounted everything went to close it and bent the second pair of strut rods.

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It looks like the lower stud is too high. Needs to be real close to the floor...
 
So, on hardtop the studs on the trunk hinges need to be on the inside. Convertible and hardtop hinges are different..
 
Scammer, I don't quite understand your mounting configuration, but here are pictures of my gas springs in my hardtop and they work just fine. It looks to me like the closure angle on your struts is too large and your are trying to overcome the load transfer from the spring to the floor. If I remember my geometry correctly, most of the load (trunk closure) is in the floor and that's why you are bending your struts.
Here are three pictures of how mine are installed. My trunk is upholstered so I can't provide any more clarity. Please notice the strut is almost completely horizontal in the same plane as the rear mounting point, if that make any sense to you. And in the third picture are the parts and pieces I fabricated to make it work.
Hope this helps.

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I went back and re-read this thread. I don't understand why people are leaving the torsion springs installed after they install the gas spring. If the correct load rated gas spring is used, the torsion springs aren't needed. Plus the gas springs clean up the entire trunk. I modified the trunk hinges to accomodate spherical bearings, it makes for a smoother hinge rotation when the trunk is being opened or closed.
 
@retroron So you created mounting brackets that attach to the arm and the bracket? This requires no drilling on the arm? My concern has been that if I were to drill the arm, I might compromise it and have it bend or break.

And did you put sealed ball bearings at the ends of the arms? Very nice!
 
@retroron So you created mounting brackets that attach to the arm and the bracket? This requires no drilling on the arm? My concern has been that if I were to drill the arm, I might compromise it and have it bend or break.

And did you put sealed ball bearings at the ends of the arms? Very nice!
I welded bungs into the arm for bracket at the apex, you can see the brackets in the picture above they are triangular with a hole in the center. You can buy the stud attachment bracket from Guden. It will serve the same purpose as the bracket I made. If you weld the brackets to the arm it won't weaken it. Yes, I put sealed bearings at the end of the arm. I drilled and tapped the truck stud for a 10-32 screw to hold the bearing in place.
 
Do you happen to remember the OD of the trunk stud? And how the heck did you get in there to drill and tap it? Are you a circus performer? :)
 
I went back and re-read this thread. I don't understand why people are leaving the torsion springs installed after they install the gas spring. If the correct load rated gas spring is used, the torsion springs aren't needed. Plus the gas springs clean up the entire trunk. I modified the trunk hinges to accomodate spherical bearings, it makes for a smoother hinge rotation when the trunk is being opened or closed.
I removed the original torsion rod springs....
 
So I will chime back in with my results. The 150lbs were good for the back. Maybe a bit heavy, but no problems closing the trunk. The 150lbs on the front are just barely enough to hold the hood open. I would have liked to have 180 on the front, but its all installed, so we will live with it for now.
 
Those struts have a particular orientation when mounted vertical. i cant remember if the cylinder is up or down.....but I think it needs to be on the top.
 
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