HP Loss from Mechanical Fuel Pump

[Mattax]

I have done the save-all-the-parasitic-drag-you-can routine. Ran an electric water pump drive, electric pusher fan, no alternator, etc. I found that having the car coming back up the return road overheating, the battery needing charging, AND still running the fan, was nowhere near worth the hassle.
I now run a mechanical fan and water pump and alternator. Still have the pusher in place, but rarely need it. I figure I'm giving up 20hp with the fan, maybe 5hp with the water pump, and maybe 2hp with the alternator.
Driving back the return road at 170° instead of 220°, with the battery at 14.5v instead of 10.9v, and the car ready to hot lap is worth more TO ME, than that 25 or thirty hp. It's a brackett car. The way it works is MUCH more important than how fast it is.

That's a great example of
You must finish the race to win a race.

Even in a drag race car, it needs to run reliably and consistantly

and for drag racing, keeping everything on the cool side can also be worth some power.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

You expect everyone to read what you typed before replying?


I've hung a fuel can from the coat hanger. Actually worked pretty good for getting around town. LOL
No high speed driving with the hood only held with the secondary latch! View attachment 1715885765

I've also gone through the lights with the fuel pressure showing zero for pretty much all of 3rd gear. I could tell the bowl was running out but it made it. Not my brightest move.

Use cig lighter tire pump and valve to pressurize it. Lol. Like a brake cleaner spray can matco/cornwell sell.

 

[273]

I think that his combination is off. He's got a 650, he wants to use a air gap intake manifold, has a xe268 cam and spring's. Now for what's really going to cost him more power than a fuel pump ever will and that's the restrictive cylinder heads that he has, "302" heads with stock size valve's, those heads have around a 150cc intake runner size at best. I'm surprised that no one else caught this and no mention of a compression ratio either.

Is it ideal no, but good enough for 300+ hp it's starting point. Got start somewhere there's always a better combo. $$$$

 

[Dan the man]

Is it ideal no, but good enough for 300+ hp it's starting point. Got start somewhere there's always a better combo. $$$$

I think you can make 300 horsepower without the airgap intake manifold and the XE268 cam. A good 3 angle valve job and back cut the valve's along with blending the bowl area will help too. What compression ratio you running, headers and exhaust system. 1 1/2" diameter headers will scavenge the exhaust faster than 1 5/8". The biggest valve's I'd run in those heads is 1.88" intake 1
600". 2.02 will hurt port velocity in those heads

 

[Ted265]

I wouldn't run 1 1/2" primary pipes on a slant let alone a warmed up V8

 

[Mattax]

Works better than you think.

 

[furrystump]

I’m the same, run a new clutch fan, alternator charges, big battery. I don’t want to lose a race because it wouldn’t start or hurt it because it got hot. Been toying with the idea of a 5 lb lithium battery, that would be 20 lbs off the nose, but I HATE a car that won’t turn over and start!!