Hurst Competition Shifter Adjustment

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carfreak6970

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So I have a 67 Dart with the A833 and a 383. The transmission was rebuilt before I got it on the road and has maybe 1,000 miles on, if that. I did put syncros in it when I rebuilt it and all the gears did look good when i was last inside the transmission about 200 miles ago (for another issue).

The issue I am having is properly adjusting the shifter. Getting into first isnt too bad, but getting into 2nd gear is a pain. Like it doesnt want to go in but then finally sinks in. Getting into 3rd and 4th does not put up a fuss. Getting into reverse isnt that big of a deal, but can be a struggle. I read somewhere that to know if your clutch adjustment is set right you shouldnt have any grinding going into reverse. I do not have grinding. I have the mechanical linkage with the TTI Z bar. I am running a diaphragm clutch with the big block reproduction fork.

Now I believe I have the Hurst competition shifter and associated A body shifter linkage that I got from Passion Performance maybe 8 years ago. I know the adjustment for these shifters are to get a .25 diameter pin and slide it in the opening on the shifter body through the shift levers on the shifter mechanism. Thats great, I did that. However, my reverse lever does not have a hole for that pin to slide all the way through so I am just eye balling the reverse lever. Is there a way to properly adjust the reverse lever on this shifter? There is some verbiage in the FSM about aligning the side cover and adjusting something on the reverse lever travel. Is that really necessary? anything online really does not mention that.

I would like the car to be able to shift with ease. I finally got the car running good and want to start rowing some gears when I have it out this summer.
 
I know everyone will ask, but here is some pictures of the linkage on the shifter. I know they arent the best, but thats all I have as I sit and write this:
IMG_3342.jpg


IMG_3344.jpg


IMG_3345.jpg
 
I find with reverse you "Push down" then over and up try it . I do think that reverse lever should have th e hole for the ajustment tool is there any way you can drill one if need be?
 
It seems strange there is no hole. I have never encountered that. I no shifters with reverse lock out you have to lift the shift gate to find the hole. I would make sure the reverse arm is flush with the other arms then you could tweak it a turn one way or the other if needed. If it were me, I would remove it, clamp the arms flush and drill a 1/4" hole using the other two arms as a guide.

1768496125164.png
 
It seems strange there is no hole. I have never encountered that. I no shifters with reverse lock out you have to lift the shift gate to find the hole. I would make sure the reverse arm is flush with the other arms then you could tweak it a turn one way or the other if needed. If it were me, I would remove it, clamp the arms flush and drill a 1/4" hole using the other two arms as a guide.

View attachment 1716499425

I have run across the no-hole reverse, just make sure trans is not "in" reverse.
I'd be surprised if you can drill those levers, they are very hard .
 

So the only thing I found useful in there was if it is notchy going into the reverse gate there is an issue with that adjustment. Ill try screwing with that.

I have run across the no-hole reverse, just make sure trans is not "in" reverse.
I'd be surprised if you can drill those levers, they are very hard .

If the reverse adjustment is out, that could affect my 1-2 & 3-2 shift?
 
I would like the car to be able to shift with ease.........

I think I'd take all the levers off the trans again and manually shift the trans forks through all gears including reverse back to neutral center.
Maybe do this a couple times to make sure the trans internals are lined up and is not the hangup issue.
Install the pin back in the mechanism and determine whether the lever slots match the trans forks at the current rod adjustment without force on the adjust rods.

Adjust rod levers as necessary to get the best minimal force slip on fit and reinstall the nuts. Remove pin.

Without the engine running and not depressing the clutch peddle, you should be able to run your shifter through all gears.
You might even setup a camera to video the mechanism levers as you run through the gears. It might be helpful to determine if the mechanism is dragging an adjacent lever for some reason.
 
Also, according to the article posted above, it says the shift rods are only threaded on the ends that attach to the shifter. Does this mean I have my reverse rod on backwards?
 
In an 833 the side cover must be installed correctly or it will act like that as well

The shoulder bolts must be installed or it won’t locate the Cover correctly

Tommy
 
No, your reverse is correct. As long as your reverse lever is in alignment up towards the shifter body with the other two levers, your good. You do not need to drill that. I usually shift into low to stop everything, then go into reverse. As to your second gear issue, has this always been a problem? Drive it more, sometimes new parts need to be shifted in for break in. Otherwise, sounds like your clutch isn't fully disingaging.
 
The earlier build Hurst boxes don't have the hole in Rev. Miller used to make a tool to align the shifter, but I have never had my hands on one.

HURST TOOL.jpg
 
In an 833 the side cover must be installed correctly or it will act like that as well

The shoulder bolts must be installed or it won’t locate the Cover correctly

Tommy

Fair, but I have those bolts in. Anything else that needs done?

The earlier build Hurst boxes don't have the hole in Rev. Miller used to make a tool to align the shifter, but I have never had my hands on one.

View attachment 1716499471

Well good to know that what I have isnt wrong. Any way to adjust without said tool?
 
Fair, but I have those bolts in. Anything else that needs done?



Well good to know that what I have isnt wrong. Any way to adjust without said tool?
You can fit the 1/4" dowel through the front of the case and the 1/2 and 3/4 levers. Then just visually adjust the rod until the REV lever lines up with the others. Never had an issue doing it this way.
 
I'm curious about this as well.

Does it matter Dan?
OEM rods the Rev rod will be installed opposite from the 1/2 and 3/4 rods with the fixed end of the rod on the shifter, swivel at the transmission end. Most of the aftermarket Hurst stuff all 3 swivels go to the shifter.
 

You can fit the 1/4" dowel through the front of the case and the 1/2 and 3/4 levers. Then just visually adjust the rod until the REV lever lines up with the others. Never had an issue doing it this way.

Okay, so I have done this and still have this issue.

When you say the reverse lever lines up with the 1-2 & 3-4 levers, does that mean I focus on lining the levers up via the parameters of the levers (which the reverse lever is curved to the rear)? or do I align the levers via the holes the rods go through on the levers?

If you have done this method in the past with success it sounds like I may be over thinking this. Is there another issue that could be be giving me a difficult time getting into second gear?
 
Looks like the basics are covered. One thing I’d throw in there is to make sure the 1-2 and 3-4 selector levers are in the neutral position when adjusting the rods. On my car I have the comp plus shifter and it does have an alignment hole in reverse. The OE hurst unit did not.

I see yours has the same leaky o-rings mine does.. it’s so irritating but I’m not irritated enough to pull the trans to fix it lol.. hate leaks but eh.. I don’t drive mine enough to worry about it right now.
 
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