hydraulic clutch conversion qustions

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spikekid999

MOPAR OR NO CAR!!!
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anyone on here done a hydraulic clutch conversion?

debating with going with an auto or a manual trans in my 46 dodge truck project and leaning towards a manual since I cant seem to find a good slant 6 auto trans and I know a complete trans rebuild aint cheap and I happen to have a slant 6 bellhousing and a 3 speed trans.

since it'll be tricky to find a z-bar andall the clutch linkage to work in a 46 dodge truck on a Dakota frame I figure it would be easiest to to a hydraulic clutch conversion and woundering what people prefer, a hydraulic throwout bearing or a slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch fork?
 
I did a hydraulic throw out bearing on my 74 swinger when I converted from an auto to an 833 overdrive. It worked out well and allowed for more room for the exhaust. I'd do it again.
 
I found a company that sells em that had like a how to video that I watched, looks real easy to install and I cant see it not being any less reliable then anything from the 90s, really considering this
 
I suppose that one downfall of the hydraulic throw out is the fact that the transmission must be removed if anything were to go wrong with it. I ran mine for three years before I stopped driving the car. I never had any trouble with that setup.
 
spikekid999 said:
anyone on here done a hydraulic clutch conversion?

debating with going with an auto or a manual trans in my 46 dodge truck project and leaning towards a manual since I cant seem to find a good slant 6 auto trans and I know a complete trans rebuild aint cheap and I happen to have a slant 6 bellhousing and a 3 speed trans.

since it'll be tricky to find a z-bar andall the clutch linkage to work in a 46 dodge truck on a Dakota frame I figure it would be easiest to to a hydraulic clutch conversion and woundering what people prefer, a hydraulic throwout bearing or a slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch fork?
Click to expand...

What are you talking about, ever here of the TF904... you will have under 1000 bucks for a rebuilt trans with converter including the core trans...
 
I have a 9-4, that is totally shot, I have a known good 3 speed and bellhousing, and since I gotta order up a under floor mounted brake master cylinder, ill spend a lil extra and get one with a clutch master cylinder too
 
spikekid999 said:
I have a 9-4, that is totally shot, I have a known good 3 speed and bellhousing, and since I gotta order up a under floor mounted brake master cylinder, ill spend a lil extra and get one with a clutch master cylinder too
Click to expand...

i dont think you'll have the room for both the brake master and then a clutch master... its a tight fit. found a link and i doubt this would fit... also you have to butcher the brake pedal arm to get the right travel and arch, where your gonna put the clutch pedal i dont know, its even tighter fit in the cab

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-6...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=COnfkNGyrrkCFStxQgod7HkAjQ
 
I'm actually looking at getting the manual brake version of that from speedway, can't see it being to tight if a fit, and don't see why if have to "butcher" the brake arm as irs made to be installed like that.
 
Still a few slant 6 vans and pickups showing up in Florida bone yards...with 904's attached. Anything I bought from a yard I'd go through anyway, seals, bands, clutch plates, etc. Torque flites are pretty easy to do, so long as you pay attention and don't cut or roll over an oil seal o-ring and can use a feeler gauge to measure clutch pack clearances.
 
spikekid999 said:
I'm actually looking at getting the manual brake version of that from speedway, can't see it being to tight if a fit, and don't see why if have to "butcher" the brake arm as irs made to be installed like that.
Click to expand...

lol you'll see
 
805moparkid said:
i dont think you'll have the room for both the brake master and then a clutch master... its a tight fit. found a link and i doubt this would fit... also you have to butcher the brake pedal arm to get the right travel and arch, where your gonna put the clutch pedal i dont know, its even tighter fit in the cab

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-6...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=COnfkNGyrrkCFStxQgod7HkAjQ
Click to expand...


Try this instead, it's designed as a bolt on conversion part for the 30's/40's Mopar cars and trucks. It reuses the factory pedals

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html


There's plenty of room under my '48 to install a dual circuit master cylinder (like the one I linked), and a hydraulic clutch master cylinder too (if I wanted to go that route).

I know that for a fact, because I had once mocked up a bracket and clutch master cylinder to fit mine, when I was considering installing an NP540 Overdrive 5-Speed from a 1960's Dodge. In the end I decided to keep the original 4-speed in my '48, and I think the bracket eventually made its way to the scrap pile.
 
I put a hydraulic clutch assembly in my 65 Comet. I used the external slave cylinder. I'm glad I did since it took me a while to get the adjustment where I wanted it. Would hate to have to keep pulling a trans to adjust. They(hydraulic throwout) may be fine for a sorted out kit where you just set it according to directions, but when in uncharted waters, it's best to have all the flexability you can. Consider where you mount it also. I have my clutch M/C next to my brake M/C an it keeps me from using a power booster.
 
well heres my plan, since I don't have the original pedals (started with a bare cab and front clip) im gonna go with this master cylinder setup

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-6...al-Brake-Hydraulic-Clutch-Assembly,46285.html

then go with this throwout bearing kit. they also have videos on how to get it spaced properly, don't look too hard and think itll look real clean compared to a slave cylinder for what im goin for
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-852...on-system-for-mopar-with-23-spline-a-833.html
 
Ok that makes it a little more complicated (only slightly), since the original pedals aren't there.

On the plus side, you have TONS of room between the transmission and frame rail, since yours is sitting on a Dakota Frame. IIRC the original 40's Dodge Frame is 28" (Outside to Outside), the Dakota Frame is somewhere in the range of 40" Outside to Outside (in the area of the bellhousing).

Since the pedal assembly, master cylinder, etc all sit between the transmission & frame, you have almost 5-8" of extra space to work with.


The only issue I see with the pedals you listed, is the Master Cylinder & Clutch Master would be mounted under the floor, opposite of the factory design. If the master cylinders would have been mounted on the other side (facing the front of the truck), they'd be in the engine compartment. You'd have more space to work with with them in the engine compartment, since there isn't much space under the floor.

Of course, I'm basing that off of looking at my own truck, which is still sitting on the original frame. I'd have to see how much space you've got with the Dak frame (Which is wider, which in theory would give you more space than mine)
 
Yeah I have no idea how it was set up from the factory. Only seen one other truck and it was highly modded also and never really thought about it till now, figured with those items it would be the easiest way to go
 
Thanks, I'll have to take a close look when I get home on my computer
Not sure if yours is the same as the 39-47 generation or not
 
man, even lookin at the pics on my computer I have a hard time telling how the pedals would push on the master cylinders.
looks more like if you push on the pedal, the other end would be pulling away from the master cylinder
 
Imagine the stock pedals in my pictures are the pedals from a Duster, mounted upside down.

There is a pushrod halfway between the top of the pedal and the pivot/mount(under the floor), even though the pedal is curved, and it swings down into the floor, it pushes forward.

It's a very simple setup, functions the same as a modern pedal setup, only its upside down.
 
i forgot about the dak frame... still going to have to have the pedals in the right place though!
 
74Dusted said:
Imagine the stock pedals in my pictures are the pedals from a Duster, mounted upside down.

There is a pushrod halfway between the top of the pedal and the pivot/mount(under the floor), even though the pedal is curved, and it swings down into the floor, it pushes forward.

It's a very simple setup, functions the same as a modern pedal setup, only its upside down.
Click to expand...

Ahhh alright, makes sense now, can't see the pivot that's why I was confused lol
 
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