I Give Up!! Not enough Throttle Travel

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6

69Chrgr

Charger/Cuda
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
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Midlothian, Texas
:angry7:

O.k., here is my dilemma. My 68 Cuda originally came with a 318 2 BBL. I now have a 408 w/single plane M1 and 950 QF. I have found that I have NEVER achieved full throttle, maybe 1/2 to 3/4. I cannot, even with various different accelerator cables and brackets and cannot get the dam thing to achieve enough travel to fully engage the 4 BBL. Can someone PLEASE give me some pics and suggestions? I had to walk away cause I'm starting to pull what little hair I have on my head out. :angry7:
 
We found that to be true on four cars that we built. One thing we haven't try yet is bending the throttle on the floor or moving the access point on the carb.
 
Are you attaching the throttle cable in the correct place?

Lokar works good for me...
smoberley
 
Thank you so much gentlemen for some kind of reply.

LXGuy, I don't think it matters where I hook it up, it's the lack of travel from the pedal assembly. Did you do anything different to yours? I don't want to reinvent the wheel here, but I feel that I have yet to get the full potential of the dam engine due to this freaking pedal travel crap! Of all things, and I am by no means an expert, but this would not have been what I would have considered a problem.
 
There are only 2 factors.... The difference between cable length and its housing length is its travel capability. The throw of the pedal is the travel available. The floor isn't going to move so that end of the travel is a fixed end position. Only option is changing its starting point. I hope this helps. I understand principal better than I can explain it.
 
Redfish is right. You might change the starting point on the carb. OR take the throttle apart on the floor and heat it up and bend it. But I would try first one first. Than get a donor throttle pedal to bend up. I haven't done it yet because I'm busy working on another car.
 
Thanks guys, I've tried all three different points on the carb to no avail. I've also "shimmed" the pedal assembly to no avail. I think my only option now is to modify the pedal assembly. I'm no rocket scientist, but something so simple is really frustrating me!
 
I had the same problem but it was not as bad. I just had to shim the gas peddle a little and then I found the lower you put the cable on the bracket the less the cable has to move to pull the bracket open. Hope that helps some though it sounds like you have tryed that all ready.

Good luck.
 
If you move the attachment point closer to the shaft on the carb you should be able to get full throttle. Can you post a picture of the carb setup?
 
we bent the gas peddle enough to reach full throttle, it was only getting maybe half way open, bent it and it works like a charm...
 
Like SGBARRACUDA stated I just drilled a hole closer to the throttle shaft on the lever to get full travel.
 
I had the issue also.
I started with a /6 car and so I tried to use the /6 accelerator cable.
I finally laid a couple out on the bench and found that the cable from my 69 BEE had alot more travel.
Its also longer overall than the /6 cable so it works better to reach the taller intake.

Another problem Ive seen is that when you get closer to full throttle the cable attach point is alot closer to the 3 o/clock position where it needs a pull that is angled more down than back.
 
I have this same exact problem, getting about 1/4 secondaries to open, I guess i need to read this thread a few more times and experiment with cable attach point and or shimmng/tweaking the pedal PIA!
 
dgc333 said:
Like SGBARRACUDA stated I just drilled a hole closer to the throttle shaft on the lever to get full travel.
Click to expand...

Both are correct. The closer the attachment point is to the shaft the less travel length (on the cable) it will take to acheve full throttle.
 
A huge change in the radius at the carb can make the throttle too sensative.
 
its a pretty simple fix, remove the pedal assembly as stated above and bend the pedal rod and if you look at the pedal as if it were at idle position you will notice that it has a stop like metal to metal I grind that down and it acts like you have a longer cable so you have more adjustability on the throttle bracket on the intake, its about a 15min. modification and pretty simple, like we said unbolt the pedal asembly and look at closely and you can see what you need to do to make it work.
 
I had the same issue with my 67 Barracuda when I went from a 2barrel to a 4. I am using the Lokar cable and it didn't quite travel enough. After much adjusting and moving and using different angles, clamps etc., I took the simple way out. I bent the gas pedal and greated more travel to the floor. A little heat , some gentle bending and I was home free. You will have to do some trail and error. You don't want too much travel, that can be hard on the linkage. If you reach the floor with your pedal and you run out of travel in your linkage, oops, your bad. Worked for me.

69Chrgr said:
Thanks guys, I've tried all three different points on the carb to no avail. I've also "shimmed" the pedal assembly to no avail. I think my only option now is to modify the pedal assembly. I'm no rocket scientist, but something so simple is really frustrating me!
Click to expand...
 
As others have mentioned already, with S6 cable I bent the peddle arm. I disassembled it and put it in a vice for BFH persuasion. Didn't take much.
 
Sounds like the way to go for me Thanks for all the tips guys! My 340 is built and I've yet to feel the full small block Mopar whammy!
 
Dont be surprised if it doesnt pick up much. There was a thread on Moparts a while back that dealt with this very subject. Guys were having problems getting WOT at the strip and when they resovled the problem thier performance didnt pick up much if at all. Now if yours is only opening 1/2-3/4 I would suspect that you will see some improvement but dont be surprised if its not as much as you expect. Good luck:)
 
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