BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
I have a HV carter mechanical , HV carter electric mounted back by the tank. My fuel gauge only works with the electric pump is switched on. Crazy a.
I got a good one
- Thread starter BILL MATCHETTE
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BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
I tried grounding sending unite
BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
And I don’t have that insulator pad between tank and trunk floor
BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
It’s really got me stumped
BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
Oh , I also have a gauge interface or gauge match from speedway , new sender from summit
By any chance are you tapping power for your meter match from your electric fuel pump switched power?
BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
I don’t remember ,but I could check , thanks for the idea
BILL MATCHETTE
Active Member
Come to thank of it I’m sure I didn’t , i check it any way tho
Weird things can happen with electronics.
Try this.
Key not in the ignition
Turn on emergency flashers
Turn on radio (no sound)
Put foot on brake
Turn turn signal to one side or the other
What do you here now? Radio!
Might not work in later or earlier years but it works in 67s
Try this.
Key not in the ignition
Turn on emergency flashers
Turn on radio (no sound)
Put foot on brake
Turn turn signal to one side or the other
What do you here now? Radio!
Might not work in later or earlier years but it works in 67s
Did you check the ground strap between the tank outlet nipple and the steel fuel line? The 2 steel parts complete the ground circuit. the steel lines are joined by a piece of neoprene to limit NVH between the tank and the line. I'll look for pictures. If the ground strap between the two is missing or corroded, the sending unit signal won't get to the fuel gauge in the dash. Hope this helps, it fixed mine after months of chasing my tail.
Last edited:
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Dude, you beat me to it. That was exactly what I was going to say.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would start by eliminating the pump AND sender to start with. Get into the kick panel and find the multi wire connector for the rear harness. With a diagram, ID the sender wire, disconnect the connector, and ground the sender. Turning the key to run should result in the gauge quickly going to full. If so, reconnect, move to the rear and disconnect the sender wire. Ground the wire and repeat the test. or do this part first if you wish
Now use whatever you have, big alligator/ battery clamp, or hose clamp, to "get on" say, the fuel tube out of the sender and ground that FOR CERTAIN. Retest with key on. If it works normally, power up fuel pump and see if it is affected.
You may have some odd backfeed going on, but I still suspect a sender grounding problem. The sender is not necessarily "properly" grounding to the tank. This is a design flaw of these senders. THEY SHOULD have a dedicated grounding post/ tab on the sender body.
The original cars had a "jumper clip" over the top of the rubber connector, which snapped onto the sender tube and onto the feed tube. But THAT was bad enough.........what guarantees the feed tube is grounded? it gets rusty/ corroded, etc as it is run along under the body.
Now use whatever you have, big alligator/ battery clamp, or hose clamp, to "get on" say, the fuel tube out of the sender and ground that FOR CERTAIN. Retest with key on. If it works normally, power up fuel pump and see if it is affected.
You may have some odd backfeed going on, but I still suspect a sender grounding problem. The sender is not necessarily "properly" grounding to the tank. This is a design flaw of these senders. THEY SHOULD have a dedicated grounding post/ tab on the sender body.
The original cars had a "jumper clip" over the top of the rubber connector, which snapped onto the sender tube and onto the feed tube. But THAT was bad enough.........what guarantees the feed tube is grounded? it gets rusty/ corroded, etc as it is run along under the body.
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