I need some info.

[BeepBeepRR]

1972 Scamp 318 points distributor. Question is why would it have 2 ballast resistors? There is the one on the firewall and on inline with the coil. Pretty sure that one is not needed. I will see if I have a picture of the ignition setup. Shown next to the coil on the right. Trying to fire it up and see if it will run. So far no fire at the plug wires. This picture was before I plugged stuff back in.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

It had one with the wrong ohm rating for an electronic ignition coil.... so they added the right one to the fender.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Another question.. I have a distributor for a 383 and its electronic. Is it possible to take the electronics out of it and put it in the 318 distributor? Are they that much different?

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Another question.. I have a distributor for a 383 and its electronic. Is it possible to take the electronics out of it and put it in the 318 distributor? Are they that much different?

They are different and rotate opposite a sb distributor... the pickup, hmmm i think so.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I never thought of that. But looking at the pertronix 91381a it says it will fit these engines. Soo I guess i just need to buy a conversion kit to convert it to electronic.

• 5.2L/318 (54)
• 6.3L/383 (51)
• 7.2L/440 (27)
• 4.5L/273 (16)
• 6.6L/400 (15)
• 5.9L/361 (15)

• 7.0L/426 (15)
• 5.9L/360 (11)
• 5.6L/340 (7)
• 5.2L/317 (4)
• 6.8L/413 (2)
• 6.7L/413 (1)

 

[brian6pac]

Didn't they have one for the wiper motor?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Didn't they have one for the wiper motor?

Not sure they took all that stuff out of the car for a resto job on another car. So its possible that it was there.

 

[Demonic]

You might need to get some fuel to that big hole in the intake...

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Starter fluid fills big holes

 

[67Dart273]

So far as the resistor, some high performance coils like the old rectangular huge Mallory needed a second resistor. If memory serves, the great big yellow Accel did as well

I BELIEVE the 383 stuff would fit EXCEPT FOR THE advance plate as SB and B/RB rotate the opposite directions. Make sure you pay attention to the direction of the mechanical weights. Also pay attention to the ARROW on the reluctor. There are two keyways in all reluctors. One is for SB with "CW" arrow, and the other for B/RB with CCW arrow.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I took the ballast resistor out of the loop next to the coil and it fired up. So I don’t need to change it over to electronic now.

 

[Mattax]

Sure it will run. The resistor has two purposes. One is for the points, so they will last longer. The other is for the coil, so it lasts longer and to compensate for the load and rpm.

Having direct in line with the coil means it always drops the voltage whether the car is on 'start' at roughly 12 volts, or 'run' which should be closer to 14 Volts.
The factory wiring 'start' circuit sends power to coil around the ballast resistor so it sees the full 11 to 12.5 Volts during startup.
Perhaps there is a problem with the original start or run wires so they were bypassed as a fix.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Sure it will run. The resistor has two purposes. One is for the points, so they will last longer. The other is for the coil, so it lasts longer and to compensate for the load and rpm.

Having direct in line with the coil means it always drops the voltage whether the car is on 'start' at roughly 12 volts, or 'run' which should be closer to 14 Volts.
The factory wiring 'start' circuit sends power to coil around the ballast resistor so it sees the full 11 to 12.5 Volts during startup.
Perhaps there is a problem with the original start or run wires so they were bypassed as a fix.

Very possible.. I basically just wanted to see if it would run and be worth my time messing with. It does run so now I can move on to finding all my glass and what not.