i think its blowed

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1qwikScamp

1qwikScamp

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ok so i was racing this black coupe mustang the other night and when i let out of it i realized the ole scampy was clattering like crazy so my reflexes shot my eyes directly to my oil pressure guage and sure enough ....ZERO... so i towed it home and uppon further inspection i had broken an intake rocker arm on the right bank so i pulled the shaft and looked down into the lifter valley and noticed my lifter for that same valve is missing in action so heres my question is that common? should i replace all my lifters since they were pumped dry? and finally i have broken many stock rockers why does this keep happining(first time for the lifter prob though)
 
Find the missing lifter before you do anything else. Broken rocker usually means one of your lifters pumped up hard. JMO
 
Who's rockers are they and are the broken rockers from before on the same cylinder by chance. Usually if it's a contact problem (valve to piston) or rocker siezing to shaft the pushrods are the first to go. Take a good hard look at the underside of the broken rocker, has it been contacting the valve spring retainer.
 
Take it apart and inspect the bearings. When a lifter pops out, there is little oil pressure left for the lower end and you will have damage. If you've broken more than one, then GET BETTER ONES...lol.
 
correct me if im wrong but doesnt a small block oil the crank before it oils the valvetrain and they are just stamped rockers i have broken probably 10 of them over a 3 year peroid but most under high rev conditions i will have pics up shortly
 
in the first two pics you can see down into the valley and you can see the lifter laying next to the bore and the others are self explanatory this is no new thing with the rockers for me does any one else have this issue i have had lifters come apart before but never jump out of the lifter bore itsself

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I've got some old rockers just like that. It was caused when the engine was at high rpm's and the lifters pumped up hard. Get a set of good anti pump up lifters. That might solve your problem. JMO
 
Coming out of the lifter bore is common and sorry I was under the impression that you were using roller rockers, probably cuss I just answered a question about them. Maybe if you're running this puppy that hard roller rockers are in order for the engine at least that way you'll be sure of the ratio and you can adjust them to the loose side lessening the chances of pump up.

Terry
 
Might try the Mopar performance stamped steel rockers. I think they are made of thicker better material, and are made for bigger cams. These are also made to keep you from pushing a hole in the pushrod cup. Atleast worth lookin into if yours are the stock pieces.
Matt
 
The previous guys have offered lots of good advice here. MP does make a stamped rocker with more material in the push rod area and a good set of anti-pump up lifters is a great idea. If you have to replace everything you might consider going with a solid cam. You can probably find some adjustable rockers here for a fair price. It`s also a good time to add an oil pressure light to your set-up. It`s much easier to spot a light come on than to read an oil pressure gauge, that way you can shut things down quickly before irreparable damage is done.
 
I have ran 20 seconds plus with no oil pressure, WOT, 4500+rpm, when I pulled the engine down 20K miles later, the crank looked like new.

Same truck, (71D200) had a front sump pan, and was quick enough to lose pressure from the top of first through the top of second, did it a lot, like I said above, crank was perfect. (But what is good for the goose, isn't good for the gander)

Put a lifter in it, replace the rocker, and dont rev it so high.
 
I've shoved a pushrod thru like that too. I replaced only the rocker arm and was back on the road the next day.
Didn't kick the lifter out of the bore in my case.
 
Ouch Man!

I have seen that...once. I floated the valves (7200) on a roller 318 and it had stock rocker valve train....lifter was still in the bore (roller cam Spider held it), but I jammed a pushrod through rocker just like that.

I removed the intake, inspected everything, put a new rocker and pushrod in and everything was ok.

As for WHY it happens.....do you have adequate springs for your cam?
What casting heads do you have, and are they cut any? If your block is decked and the heads are cut, your pushrods may be a bit too long now....just trying to findout some info.
Coil Bind, and over revving are sometimes detrimental.

Hopefully yours will fare well.

Good Luck!
 
Check for coil bind on your valve springs and retainer to guide/valve stem clearance at full lift before you put it back together regardless of the parts you use.
 
I would start with good anti pump ups. Obvious that your lifters are pumping right up and pushing the rod through the rocker. How much rpm's we talking about here?

JMHO that if you replace only the rockers you will be fine for a while,but this will happen again. Lifters are going solid and you loose that hydraulic "cushion".
 
I'll say again, if you popped thru 10 rockers, you need better rockers... MP might be better, but they sure look the same as stockers now. (They used to be thicker visually... not any more) Get a set of iron rockers and pushrods for it and be done. As far as oiling, no, all V8 mopars oil the lifter galleys first, then the mains off of the lifter galleys. So when a lifter pops (especially out of the passenger side bank) the mains lose oil. A left side lifter popping out will give you more time before the oil pressure is gone. But we're talking seconds. I've seen 3 engines come apart or knock shortly after a lifter incident due to bearing damage after a lifter popped out. It's up to you. Maybe try it, but if that oil pressure is not exactly what it was before at hot idle, I'd pull it apart. That's if you know exactly what it was making for pressure before.
 
Ouch is right! I would follow ramcharger's suggestion and check retainer to guide boss clearance. I would surely think the pushrod would get mangled with that kind of crunching force but it appears ok. Watch out for the lobe on the cam...for every action there is a reaction equal and opposite. The bottom of the lifter will tell the tale. And Mr. Prine, Garlits and I were Ron Paul supporters but he is too honest to get elected. A libertarian in the White House? Ha!!
As Forrest Gump said...."That's all I got to say about that."
Pat
 
Prine said:
Ouch Man!

I have seen that...once. I floated the valves (7200) on a roller 318 and it had stock rocker valve train....lifter was still in the bore (roller cam Spider held it), but I jammed a pushrod through rocker just like that.

I removed the intake, inspected everything, put a new rocker and pushrod in and everything was ok.

As for WHY it happens.....do you have adequate springs for your cam?
What casting heads do you have, and are they cut any? If your block is decked and the heads are cut, your pushrods may be a bit too long now....just trying to findout some info.
Coil Bind, and over revving are sometimes detrimental.

Hopefully yours will fare well.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

the springs should be good for the cam and they are 340x castings no cutting on them or the block i want to go with a solid lift and some aluminum roller rockers what would you guys pick oh and it was turning probably 8500 when this one went lol i know i know i shouldnt be turing it that hard with a hydrolic cam and stock rockers but the other times it was usually around 5000 when i had any breakage
 
It sounds like it was reved to high, If you are prone to race your car then get race worthy roller rockers, lifters, and push rods. Pick one that can take high rev limits. If you are putting stock style in you may want to put a rev limiter on.
 
I can't tell you how many times I've done that in my life time, Mostly on BB engines. Every time it kicked the lifter out,lost oil presure and clattered like hell. In every case I put the lifter back in the hole, pulled the push rod out of the broke rocker,replaced the rocker and hammered down again. with no problems. I guess i've been lucky. But my advise is what I did. Look at upgrading your valve train if all is well.
 
ok i have decided to switch to comp roller rockers or harland sharp and a solid lift cam what do you guys sugest on a cam and lifter combo for me right now i have a comp 501 510 lift 292 296 advertised dur 244 246 @ .050 i would like to run about the same sise just in a solid lift type what is you guys recomendation
 
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