I tried some Mopar F8 green powder from prismatic powders. Check it out.

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harrisonm

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I buy all of my powder coating powder from a company called prismatic powders now. I noticed they have a selection of colors for car companies, and Mopar F8 Green was one of them. I ordered a pound just to check it out Is a sample on a large washer. I think it looks really good. Know what I’m going to use it for, but I had to try it out. This is a large washer with the F8 green powder on it covered with a nice coat of clear.
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Great match to a 68 F8 Plymouth I have seen in person. The crazy thought of the extreme durability that would result if a whole car could be powder coated just came to mind.
 
Don't know if he still uses their products, but my powder/ceramic coater had their color chips.
You could always request it. I have been powder coating for about 20 years. I started out with a cheap Eastwood hobby gun and an electric oven. I bought only Eastwood powder unless someone wanted something special like Notre Dame Blue and Gold. But Eastwood powder prices got so high I stopped buying it. Most colors I normally use are 20-25% cheaper at Prismatic and the shipping at Prismatic is way cheaper and faster. I think Eastwood makes a tidy profit from shipping.
 
Great match to a 68 F8 Plymouth I have seen in person. The crazy thought of the extreme durability that would result if a whole car could be powder coated just came to mind.
Wasn't the original color a finer metal flake? That looks kinda chunky. Then again my color chip sheet is probably 40 years old. Don't get me wrong ,I prefer the chunky look.
 
Wasn't the original color a finer metal flake? That looks kinda chunky. Then again my color chip sheet is probably 40 years old. Don't get me wrong ,I prefer the chunky look.

I was gonna say- looks a bit too metal flaky.


I do agree on flake deviation relative to factory original, though one of the neat things about that color is the broad look it takes on from different angles/lighting level and spectrums.

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I do agree on flake deviation relative to factory original, though one of the neat things about that color is the broad look it takes on from different angles/lighting level and spectrums.

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That paint looks good enough to eat.

Great match to a 68 F8 Plymouth I have seen in person. The crazy thought of the extreme durability that would result if a whole car could be powder coated just came to mind.
You could powder coat an entire car. I have seen powder coating ovens large enough to accept a car body. I could do the doors, hood, decklid, fenders and the nose piece in my oven, but I would need to find someone with an oven big enough for the body. The hard part is that you need to get the metal work REALLY good. It's not like you can use a bunch of filler and several coats of High build primer.
Here is how I repair bad metal before powder coating it. I had a customer bring me an air cleaner once that was badly dented and had some bad rust pits. I have a special set of smaller hammers I use to tap and dolly the dents out to as close as possible. Then I use a marker like guide coat then block sand with 320 grit to see where the high/low spots are and to some more hammering. I actually top very lightly. Then I spread a skim coat of filler over the area. I use JB Weld; the original one (NOT the quick set). It is good for up to 500 degrees. Then I sand the epoxy smooth just like filler. I apply it sparingly, because cured JB weld isn't very easy to sand. Then I put a good, fairly heavy layer of zinc rich Powder primer on the piece and cure it at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. The powder primer is very good at filling in minor pits; I use JB Weld on larger ones. Then I block sand the cured primed with 220, 320 and 400 dry paper. Then I powder coat it. I can also cut out rust, weld in a patch and finish work the spot before powder coating. That air cleaner was a LOT of work. It was pretty rough. When all was said and done, I had about 20 hours in it.



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That paint looks good enough to eat.


You could powder coat an entire car. I have seen powder coating ovens large enough to accept a car body. I could do the doors, hood, decklid, fenders and the nose piece in my oven, but I would need to find someone with an oven big enough for the body. The hard part is that you need to get the metal work REALLY good. It's not like you can use a bunch of filler and several coats of High build primer.
Here is how I repair bad metal before powder coating it. I had a customer bring me an air cleaner once that was badly dented and had some bad rust pits. I have a special set of smaller hammers I use to tap and dolly the dents out to as close as possible. Then I use a marker like guide coat then block sand with 320 grit to see where the high/low spots are and to some more hammering. I actually top very lightly. Then I spread a skim coat of filler over the area. I use JB Weld; the original one (NOT the quick set). It is good for up to 500 degrees. Then I sand the epoxy smooth just like filler. I apply it sparingly, because cured JB weld isn't very easy to sand. Then I put a good, fairly heavy layer of zinc rich Powder primer on the piece and cure it at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. The powder primer is very good at filling in minor pits; I use JB Weld on larger ones. Then I block sand the cured primed with 220, 320 and 400 dry paper. Then I powder coat it. I can also cut out rust, weld in a patch and finish work the spot before powder coating. That air cleaner was a LOT of work. It was pretty rough. When all was said and done, I had about 20 hours in it.



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Wow that cleaner turned out really nice. Thanks for the detailed explanation on doing a whole car, sound pretty intense, and logical as to why it is not a practical option.
 
That paint looks good enough to eat.


You could powder coat an entire car. I have seen powder coating ovens large enough to accept a car body. I could do the doors, hood, decklid, fenders and the nose piece in my oven, but I would need to find someone with an oven big enough for the body. The hard part is that you need to get the metal work REALLY good. It's not like you can use a bunch of filler and several coats of High build primer.
Here is how I repair bad metal before powder coating it. I had a customer bring me an air cleaner once that was badly dented and had some bad rust pits. I have a special set of smaller hammers I use to tap and dolly the dents out to as close as possible. Then I use a marker like guide coat then block sand with 320 grit to see where the high/low spots are and to some more hammering. I actually top very lightly. Then I spread a skim coat of filler over the area. I use JB Weld; the original one (NOT the quick set). It is good for up to 500 degrees. Then I sand the epoxy smooth just like filler. I apply it sparingly, because cured JB weld isn't very easy to sand. Then I put a good, fairly heavy layer of zinc rich Powder primer on the piece and cure it at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. The powder primer is very good at filling in minor pits; I use JB Weld on larger ones. Then I block sand the cured primed with 220, 320 and 400 dry paper. Then I powder coat it. I can also cut out rust, weld in a patch and finish work the spot before powder coating. That air cleaner was a LOT of work. It was pretty rough. When all was said and done, I had about 20 hours in it.



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My friend owns QC coatings. He's done several whole vehicles, with zero paint. He did 2 square-body GM pickups, last year, and has done many full tube chassis' for drag cars. He also does the best ceramic exhaust coatings I've seen. Great guys, great work, and if it isn't correct...it doesn't leave. He stands behind all their work.

Home | QCCOATINGS.com
 
My friend owns QC coatings. He's done several whole vehicles, with zero paint. He did 2 square-body GM pickups, last year, and has done many full tube chassis' for drag cars. He also does the best ceramic exhaust coatings I've seen. Great guys, great work, and if it isn't correct...it doesn't leave. He stands behind all their work.

Home | QCCOATINGS.com
I found his website. Beautiful work. I have coated some exhaust manifolds with a special paint from Techline. The manifolds come out looking great and look good for a long time. But I won't touch headers.

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