I would really like to know

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Hey Bill, you've been driving it this long the way it is, I can't see a few more spins around the block, so to speak, being an issue.

If I were doing it, I would probably gather up the needed parts and just do it all at once when you yank the engine.

Maybe this is why you didn't have the clearance when we were talking about putting the gauge on the balancer eh.
 
Bill, I may be mistaken but I think you need to have the car on blocks so that the weight is on the suspension when you check those pinion angles.
C
 
Bruce, this answers a lot of questions I have had about this car. you can bet it is gonna be corrected. I think I am going to take the accessories of the engine and put the Schumacher mounts on this before I pull the motor and tranny out to make sure the problem is fixed and the right mount will fit the tranny . If I can find out which mounts I need. going to check into it today. maybe someone knows and can chime in here. Cal, I don't know. everyone I talked to said to put the jack stands under the axle housings. anyway it isn't going to make much difference for now. I have a couple shows left this year that Tyler and I want to go to and then it is all coming apart and it will all change. have to make sure when I get it right. live and learn.
 
Also the schumachers require you to trim the existing ears down and drill new holes for the thru bolts.
 
I just found that on their website. the part # is A73B8. they are $159.00 plus $18.00 shipping. looks like fun. but I have been having so much thus far whats a little more huh. thanks for the info guys. will be going a little distance. over to Indiana.
 
It's always more fun to try and figure out what some one else has done. Hopefully this will remedy a lot of your issues. Also there is a lot of info on TTI exhaust about the postioning of the engine under the install instructions.
 
yeah it has been a challenge to figure out what this so called friend done. This is the last thing I will have to question about. all the rest has been addressed. funny thing, last year we were at a local car show and he showed up and had never saw this car finished. he kept looking at it for the longest time. Then he finally looked back at where we were sitting and saw it was me and then slowly walked away and left. never saw him again. he isn't doing too good these days. I think Karma has a grip on him.
 
This is a good thread. Your gonna know this car very well after all the trouble you have been having! Fifteen problems fixed with one solution.
 
already know this car very well. but who would have thought the motor mounts would be wrong after 13 years of driving it. wow. ironic isn't it
 
If I were you .......at this point, I think the Schumacher mounts would be easier than modding the K frame. That is unless you end up pulling it all back out again.
 
I am pulling it all back out in a month or so. engine is going to be rebuilt and car is going to be stripped down and repainted. BUT, I am going with the Schumacher mounts because I dont want any more problems.
 
but I would still like to know what the hell that mount came out of that is in there now. It is bugging the crap out of me. I have went back to mid 70's in the trucks and cars and it all comes back to the same 2512 mount.
 
LOL hell, I been running around with F*rd brake drums on the back of this 8.75 for 13 years.........you think he stuck a F* rd or Chebby tranny mount in it too. you wait till I see his as* again.
 
I foresee another problem you may have. One engine mount went in easy but the other one had to be forced somehow to get it to fit. I hope no one took a hammer to the k-frame tabs.
 
Mope, didn't have any problems with motor mounts that I recall. where did you get that from. don't recall any problems. I know no one took a hammer to the k frame.
 
In the instructions on the bigblockdarts web page they tell you to cut the tab towers and move one back 1 3/16" and the other back 13/16", that is a 3/8" difference. Since that was not done, it had to be quite hard to get it together without forcing it somehow?
 
I can tell you that nothing was forced and it slipped right in. matter of fact the last time we set the engine in the engine bay it took exactly 20 minutes from the time it was lifted off the engine stand till I unhooked the chain from the engine. I made a bet with the boys that it could be done. now you have my curiosity peaked here. I am going to have to look real close at this k frame when it comes out and measure and see what it is all about. I can assure you that when the engine sat down in the cradle, it went right in. we sat the engine in without the tranny. lifted it off the stand raised it up and then pulled the car up under the engine and let her down.
 
well, we took the cars over to Indiana to the car show and I have to tell you that the car was soooooo much better with the new poly bushings installed in the tranny mount. I could not believe the difference in the way it ran. I didn't have the same vibration anymore. It was more of a slight binding vibration or like the quiver I described a while back. I almost believe that when this drivetrain is taken out this winter and the new Schumacher mounts are installed and this driveline gets squared around and straight in the car that all the problems should be corrected. I almost got on the interstate and came home with it, but still ran 60-70 MPH on the back roads. Also done real good at the show. Both cars won in class.
 

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Congrats. Looks like a fun day.
 
I still have not seen a trans mount that was not slotted from the factory.
Maybe it is an aftermarket thing, might want to find a factory mount and stick the poly busing in it.
 
Congratulations on the wins!:cheers: Glad to hear that a lot of vibration is gone also...
C
 
I have a brand new factory mount here with poly bushings in it but it will not mount up. The holes are about 3/8-1/2" off because the engine is setting too far forward and cocked in the cradle. couple of the guys here figured that out. Figured that I need to go with the Schumacher mounts. makes sense. at the car show yesterday I was looking at the engine. you can tell that it is in there crooked. I think that the little bit of it being crooked is causing the front u-joint to bind just enough to cause what little quiver I still feel. when the driveline comes out in a month or so, just for kicks and giggles, I am going to take the rearend out and have the bearing checked and all the clearances checked. I am also going to take the tranny back up and have it checked again just to make sure I didn't damage anything inside with not having the kickdown hooked up. I am also going to make sure I have the right flexplate. I believe someone said it needed to be 10237. I am also going to change the balancer and make sure I have timing marks on this one. I am going to make sure it is right this time. I appreciate all the help you guys have given me. I could not have done this without you guys. Bill
 
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