idler arm interference

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inertia said:
Helps that I'm a workaholic, perpetual motion dawn till bed . My wife has to drag me up to the house a coupla times a day for a Doobie, or she'd seldom see me, happily married 50yrs, - worked for me, lol
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50 yrd coming up next jan too thosedoobies are the only way she can stand me
 
hepcat said:
also in middle of 1970 swinger slant 6 to 440 swap. having major problem with oil pan idler arm interference. first pan i bought that was supposed to work was a night mare of bfh clearancing and grinding of k frame lip just to get motor down in the hole. realized it was never going to let me turn to the right so unless i only wanted to make left turns it had to come back out. found a pan on 440 source that supposed to be a repro of c body pan with the notch built in for idler arm cleance so put it on and it is nowhere near correct either. i tried to clearance it with hammer and not working. either i am doing something wrong or my 70 was put together differently or idler and pittman arms are too short or bent or something. even raisng the motor with 3/8 spacers isnt going to clear. i am wondering if idler arms could be heated and bent down jjust enough to clear or if that is impossible. only other solution i guess is fabbing my own pan notch which i can do but i dont understanc why nobody else seems to have this problem i'm having
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a lot of people have had this problem , keep after it , "YOU CAN DOOOO IT !"
 
hepcat said:
well i got a new idler and there is no difference between the 2 so i went with cutting and enlarging the notch which was a pain but it works and i also put a 1/4 inch spacer under passenger side and 3/8 under driver side motor mount and now have headers installed, spark plugs back in (wow is that a challenge on middle 2 on passenger side) now working on modifying a couple of spark plug wires and modifiying trans dipstick mount.

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they can be heated and bent , a front end man did one on a chevy p/u I had , have to get it cherry red , but keep the end and joints cool...
 
famous bob said:
a lot of people have had this problem , keep after it , "YOU CAN DOOOO IT !"
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Thanks man. I was feeling all alone there for awhile. Now if i can just find those darn torque converter bolts maybe i can fire the thing up after 2 yrs of delays
 
None of the pans will completely fit with the '67-72 idler without some massaging of the pan. The late steering parts fit better. I was even able to run a B-body baffled pan (no notch). with late parts.
 
Jim Lusk said:
None of the pans will completely fit with the '67-72 idler without some massaging of the pan. The late steering parts fit better. I was even able to run a B-body baffled pan (no notch). with late parts.
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Good to know thanks
 
famous bob said:
they can be heated and bent , a front end man did one on a chevy p/u I had , have to get it cherry red , but keep the end and joints cool...
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I knew it! I didn't think bending it just enough to clear would hurt anything but i decided to cut the pan
 
I believe it was the 73+ link and arms I used. They attach from top down and gained me the clearance and a factory 187 pan. I researched and asked 1M questions until someone confirmed it, and it worked. Sucks you had to fight it so much. 440 in a Demon.
 
71GSSDemon said:
I believe it was the 73+ link and arms I used. They attach from top down and gained me the clearance and a factory 187 pan. I researched and asked 1M questions until someone confirmed it, and it worked. Sucks you had to fight it so much. 440 in a Demon.
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Sounds and looks awesome
 
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