green72
Well-Known Member
Could someone give me a lesson on the ignition system in my 72 /6 non electronic. Mainly what does ignition 1 do and what does ignition 2? Thanks
Ignition explanation
- Thread starter green72
- Start date
-
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
ign 1 is power from the key when its in the run position..
ign 2 is power from the key when the key is in the start position. it bypasses the ballast..
i think i have them in the proper order...lol
ign 2 is power from the key when the key is in the start position. it bypasses the ballast..
i think i have them in the proper order...lol
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yes, and one thing that traps a LOT of guys is that "ignition run" (IGN 1) goes COLD during "start." Therefore the only power to start the car is the resistor bypass circuit, IGN2. Even if you use an MSD, HEI or other system with no ballast resistor, you must connect the old IGN1 and IGN2 together
Also keep in mind that IGN2, which is hot only in start, is a SEPARATE circuit and switch contact from the "start" contact/ wire which fires the start relay.
The other little tidbits about Mopar ECUs is that the early boxes were what has become known as a "5 pin" box, so:
The early boxes REQUIRED a 4 terminal ballast or "dual" ballast, and had 5 active terminals. One of the resistors fed power to the box.
The later boxes are known as a "4 terminal" box, but THEY MIGHT HAVE 5 physical connector pins. This means the only way to tell a 4 pin from a 5 pin is to use your ohmeter to find out if the 5th pin is a dummy, or connected in the box.
A 4 terminal box CAN use EITHER 2 or 4 terminal resistor as the second resistor is not functional with a 4 terminal box.
The two resistors are different resistances. The way to tell, is to look at the resistor, one end of which has a "U" shaped cutout to identify one end of the resistor. The wiring diagrams (good ones!!!) are marked in the drawing.
4 and 5 pin drawings:
In the drawing below, the 4 pin ECU does not need the left side of the resistor. The "U" cutout on the resistor at the bottom in this drawing
Also keep in mind that IGN2, which is hot only in start, is a SEPARATE circuit and switch contact from the "start" contact/ wire which fires the start relay.
The other little tidbits about Mopar ECUs is that the early boxes were what has become known as a "5 pin" box, so:
The early boxes REQUIRED a 4 terminal ballast or "dual" ballast, and had 5 active terminals. One of the resistors fed power to the box.
The later boxes are known as a "4 terminal" box, but THEY MIGHT HAVE 5 physical connector pins. This means the only way to tell a 4 pin from a 5 pin is to use your ohmeter to find out if the 5th pin is a dummy, or connected in the box.
A 4 terminal box CAN use EITHER 2 or 4 terminal resistor as the second resistor is not functional with a 4 terminal box.
The two resistors are different resistances. The way to tell, is to look at the resistor, one end of which has a "U" shaped cutout to identify one end of the resistor. The wiring diagrams (good ones!!!) are marked in the drawing.
4 and 5 pin drawings:
In the drawing below, the 4 pin ECU does not need the left side of the resistor. The "U" cutout on the resistor at the bottom in this drawing
green72
Well-Known Member
That really helps! I am going to an HEI ignition on this slant, already have a coil and pertronics II for it from Greg (Trailbeast). It now has a points distributor so no ECU correct? Been reading lots of posts on the subject. One thing I am unclear of is the voltage regulator. It looks to me like it needs to stay in the car but in a few post it sounds like guys are removing them? Just want to understand it more before I tear it apart.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
voltage reg. needs to stay unless your going with an internal regulated alt. your ign system and charging systems are two different things..
correct if you have points now then you do not have an ecu..
correct if you have points now then you do not have an ecu..
omahamoparguy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2010
- Messages
- 756
- Reaction score
- 32
id keep the voltage regulator. It works just fine. Internal regulators (in the alternator) like GM has are ok, but the regulator takes a lot more abuse cause of the heat and the dirt and the vibration. The mopar with the external regulator has some advantages. If the regulator goes bad you don't need to change the whole alternator. You can also upgrade alternators and keep the same regulator. I use the factory electronic regulator with a nippondeso alternator originally used on a jeep. works perfect.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I am using the same kit from greg. just plug it in and go. don't mess with VR. you need an electronic distributor , I do believe, but im not positive on that... mine had EI
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yup. If you want to go with an electronic ignition, you need a breakerless distributor. The problem with buying a used/ rebuilt factory type is that they all have a long slow "smog" advance curve, so it's better to buy a performance distributor with an adjustable curve, or if you get a "buy" as in cheap on a stocker, you'll want to have it re--curved.
green72
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone. I thought so but needed to know for sure
-
