So I was thinking ( could be dangerous) are all ignition modules the same? I bought a direct connection distributor conversion kit to get rid of my dual point distributer back in the 80,s. The module puked its guts out so I had an old one that I bought from a garage sale years ago and put that on. Could that be the problem not having the right one. This module was probably from the late 80,s or early 90,s. It started the car right up so I assumed it was good.
Ignition module
- Thread starter Genes 340
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The new ones have a high fail rate compared to the older ones. Also you need to have the ballast resistor matched to them for optimum performance.
Yes. It came with one in the kit. I just didn’t know if I could use any Mopar ignition module or if it would have to go with the distributor application. Of course they don’t make this particular model anymore
Just fyi the aftermarket ones are basically the black ones that end in 020. Hope it helps
Article 'How to tell NOS parts from NORS at a fast look'
OK I want to show how to tell NOS parts from NORS packaging, easy to get fooled by it.
NORS
Usually says Relaces xxxxxxx or Authorized Mopar, Also the logo is different
NOS Mopar Always has the correct logo. If it has a supersedes on it also
One that is really notorious to fool...
- halifaxhops
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- Category: Electrical & Ignition
Mine was orange and the one I replaced it with is gold
Mopar or aftermarket? The Mopar gold has a cover over the transistor. Overkill for racing only. DO NOT USE a .25 ohm resistor for it on the street! It will overheat.
Here’s the one I put on. And a tag on the distributor. Don’t know if that helps or not. I wish I would’ve kept the original but I threw it away. All I know is that it was orange
Prob a older MP one when they were good run from the new orange ones.
Older Wells a good unit it is a basic black one inside. They get you painting them or chroming them. I see it all the time. Your tag looks like a 84 date, so a real MP made by Mopar. Good units.
Older wells decent unit has a real transistor. Color on aftermarket is decieving, orange, blue, chrome, gold all basic units.
Dist date looks like a 84, when Mopar still made them.
Do you think I can cross that number and get the correct module or do you think I should just buy a new distributor kit? I was thinking of an Hei like the one proform makes that’s officially licensed by Mopar.
If it is running fine leave it alone. That dist is a MP so it really is set up for the strip with very fast advance springs in it. They came with a .8 ohm ballast resistor so it is fine with the wells ecu. Proform is another thing not mopar they just sold them the rights to say it is authorised Mopar, made in China and the ecu's suck.
Oh ok. Good to know. So as old as that module is it’s probably ok? It’s hard to explain what it’s doing I mean, unless you actually hear it. It starts fine idles fine just when you’re sitting you know and revving it up when it gets into the four barrel, you can hear it sounding like not burning all the gas. It’s not a smooth transition like it should be just revving it up. It’s hard to explain lol
Saw that on the other thread. Not saying the module is good there are different circuits in them like low rpm, High RPM, dwell etc. No real way any on car tester most people have will tell you that it is either pass or fail. I would wring out the ignition and timing before throwing parts at it. Vac leaks, Timing chain stretch, advance curve etc. Seems like the fuel is ok. I would just see what the fuel pressure is also. To fast a advance curve it can fall on its face but never did that before I would back burner it. Dont get tunnelvision on it hit all the basics first.
Vaanth
Well-Known Member
The pictured electronic control unit (ECU) is an older Wells produced unit, with its TO-3 power transistor manufactured by STMicroelectronics or SGS. It can be one of three Wells part numbers: CR100, CR109, or CR114.
If your system is wired as a two terminal single ballast resistor, it is a CR109 (4-pin connector) or CR114 (5-pin connector with dummy fifth pin).
If your system is wired as a four terminal dual ballast resistor, it can be a CR109 (4-pin connector), CR114 (5-pin connector with dummy fifth pin), or CR100 (5-pin connector). CR100 required the dual ballast resistor, but the other two numbers can operate with either.
Earlier Wells ECUs did not have the embossed "Wells" name. The earliest Wells ECUs were packed in pink/white/black boxes, also marked as Ampco, and are most likely a CR100. Later ECUs could be in different colored blister pack or clamshell packages. In the alternative packaging, the part numbers have a "1" added: CR1100, CR1109, CR114. The following images show some package and case variations:
These older Wells ECUs are good quality and will function fine in an original Chrysler electronic ignition system, or add-on Direct Connection or Mopar Performance system. Wells is now Wells Vehicle Electronics (WVE) and still produces ECUs, but they are not good like the older products. Current WVE ECUs have a different numbering scheme.
Most ECUs, original and aftermarket, are interchangeable with some limitations or considerations as follows:
- A four pin ECU can be used in a five pin ECU system, but a real five pin ECU cannot be used in a four pin ECU system.
- The P4120600 ECU aka. "gold box" cannot be used in extended low RPM use, depending on the ballast resistor and coil used.
- The P4120534 ECU aka. "chrome box" will overheat in extended low RPM use with a ballast resistance less than 0.5 ohms and a low resistance coil.
- Some 1972 production Chrysler ECUs included a rev limiter, but still interchange with other 5-pin units.
If your Direct Connection system shipped with the P4120505 orange ECU, with blue heat sink, like these shown in the following image, it included a two terminal single ballast resistor.
The early kits used a 0.5 ohm ballast resistor. Later kits, including Mopar Performance, shipped with a 1.25 ohm ballast resistor. Even earlier Direct Connection kits shipped with a P4007298 ECU (chrome with blue finned heat sink) and a four terminal dual ballast resistor.
If your orange ECU lost the potting compound, but was still working, it can be cleaned and re-potted, but it is not a trivial nor risk-free process.
Modern versions of the P4120505 orange ECU are no longer made by Chrysler, and are not reliable compared to the the original and earlier production units, or other old American made aftermarket products. I don't use the newer stuff, but I have been running some old orange ECUs for up to 40 years and ~180,000 miles. The only real issues I have encountered with the original orange ECUs has been the potting breakdown, and one unit that did not fail completely but became intermittent after several years. That one is currently on the shelf awaiting further investigation.
The pictured distributor is P3690430 (tagged as 3690430) which is part of the Direct Connection and Mopar Performance kits. As Ray noted, it is a mid 1980s unit and they did have a quicker centrifugal advance curve which might need tweaking depending on the application. This distributor is better built than current "Mopar Authorized" products, and unless damaged beyond repair, will be better to use.
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Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
I used that same Direct connection kit. ECU lasted for approx 500 miles then **** the bed.
I installed a Hi-Rev 7500 unit (shown below) and now up to 8000 miles with no issues.
Cheers!
I installed a Hi-Rev 7500 unit (shown below) and now up to 8000 miles with no issues.
Cheers!
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
I tried the hi Rev 7500 unit and car never fired! So contacted Mr Eringberg and he sent another one and it did the same thing!! No fire. So I put back the old Standard LX101 and bam fired right up! Not sure why this happened but it my experience. I also have a Mopar performance chrome box it too fires right up. This is in my dodge Dart sport 360 with the 4 prong ballast resistor.
Amazing the research you have done!
When did you buy the kit? Just curious.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
i purchased the kit in 2022, I have since purchased a second unit for backup.
This kit was purchased from Richard Ehrenberg , Mopar Parts.
On Line.
BTW Do you carry the same part ?
Thanks That’s great information. So I should probably use the orange one with my distributor? Since I swapped the orange one for the one on my that photo , my tach won’t go over 2500 rpm’s and then is irradict. That’s why I thought it could be bad. The orange ones are rated for 6,000 to 6500 correct? What are these chrome ones rated at? I bought two just like theses at a garage sale in the 80,s
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Remember to match your ballast resistor to the module you are using.
Halifax Shops and Vannath have provided excellent info as guidance.
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