ignition pickup module

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I just changed the pickup module and orange box on the Barracuda,and now it won't start. There is no spark at the plug wires. The gap between the reluctor and pickup is set to .008 with a brass feller gauge. I changed the module because the wires were pinched between the dist. cap and housing (crushed). Are there differences in modules? The one I replaced had gray and black wires and the replacement had orange and black wires ,it is a Standard part number lx 102t. I have no idea what year the ignition system came from. It had an orange box in it when I bought the car . It is a 66 Barracuda with a 360 in it.
 
Check for voltage at the ballast resistor, in the key run position should be about 8 volts. Also check the resistance in the ballast resistor to make sure it didn't crap out.
 
tonysrt said:
Check for voltage at the ballast resistor, in the key run position should be about 8 volts. Also check the resistance in the ballast resistor to make sure it didn't crap out.
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Can you put the other ECU back to elim or confirm it is the box or the module (or maybe a connection got disturbed). post how it turns out.
 
I did put the old ECU back in same no start. I did not test the ballast. I did use a test light and checked the leads going to the dist. it lit on one lead very dim and nothing on the other. I read on another thread that there should not be power going to the pickup. Double checked the wiring to make sure there were no broken or disconnected wires. Everything looked okay. I did notice several different part numbers for the module and was wondering what the difference was. The module I used is a lx102t Standard Ignition part. Thevy also listed just a lx102 and lx109. If the weather is good tomorrow I will check the ballast resistor with my meter and also see what voltage is on the one lead to the dist..
 
The case of the ECU must be well grounded. Check resistance to BATT-. A dedicated ground wire wouldn't hurt. Your car was retrofitted to a 1970's electronic ignition, hopefully correctly. Yes, there are differences in modules. Most new ones do not use the 5th pin, so if it is there it is just a dummy. Back in the 1970's, some had no 5th pin. If there is a 5th pin and it is active (measure resistance to case), then you need a dual ballast resistor. The 2nd ballast is 5 ohm, used to protect the ECU. All types have a coil ballast of 0.5 ohm.

Since you changed the pickup, I'll mention that I bought 2 pickups from rockauto several years ago. One had the correct dual bullet connector and the other had one w/ a too-short male pin that didn't make dependable contact to the car's connector. Took me a while to figure that out. I think the factory used an appliance type dual bullet on it, which doesn't work. Who knows how many got into the supply chain and cause problems.

If you get frustrated enough, you could change to a GM 8-pin module (85-95 V-8 trucks) and mating e-core coil. That gives a stronger spark and lets you get rid of the ballast. Many posts. TrailBeast sells a kit as new parts.
 
I don't think I'll get to do anything today got snow last night(no garage). I will let you guys know what I find once the weather breaks. Gota love Mother Nature!
 
I've heard of, and read of here, cases where the 2 leads from the pickup were reversed in that connector. I don't know how to test/prove though. Good luck with it.
 
RedFish said:
... the 2 leads from the pickup were reversed in that connector. I don't know how to test/prove though. ...
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Here's how to test. Remove the cap. Wire a spark plug to the coil HV wire and ground the body of the plug, or buy a "spark tester". You could also place the tip of the HV wire 1/4" away from an unpainted area on the engine, secured-well or have your wife hold it if you want a divorce. Clamp a timing light over the HV wire. Crank the engine and flash the timing lamp at the reluctor wheel. If the flashes occur when the teeth align, the polarity is correct. If not, try reversing the pickup wires. Also, verify that when the teeth align the rotor aligns fairly closely with a spark post. That alignment is designed-into the distributor, so would only be off if the reluctor or pickup were the wrong parts, made wrong, or installed wrong. Rich Ehrenberg sells an adjustable reluctor wheel on ebay. BTW, the rotor "phasing" does shift slightly with vacuum advance, but doesn't shift with rpm. If doing detailed research, remove the distributor to spin by hand. Anybody installing a GM 8-pin HEI module must do this, and smart to do so before installing the e-distributor.
 
Check all the above suggestions. If still no spark rotate the distributor shaft with a 1/2 drill. connect voltmeter to black - and other wire, orange etc should be +
Rotation should produce AC voltage. You need at least 1 volt to trigger the ECU.
 
It even works and produces plenty of voltage to trigger the spark when turned by hand easily.
I do it all the time.
 
Hi guys. I just got on to ask the same thing when I saw this tread.
I myself has a Mopar performance replacement distributor with vacuum advance. There is no spark when the cranking RPM is low. This happens when the car has not been started for a few weeks and the battery maybe a little low. If I boost charge the battery and attempt to start the car it starts with more cranking rpm and I dont have a problem for the rest of the day. Even after week its O.K. But a lowish crank rpm there is no spark as I have proven this. I reversed the pick up wires from the distributor at it seems that even at low cranking rpm I have spark now. It starts O.K. after leaving the car unstarted for a while. As soon as I reversed the pick up wires my advance was far too much. I re timed the engine which bought the distributor about 1/8th of a turn clockwise to get the same advance as before. I am just wondering whether I did have the pick up wires reversed all these years?
Regards Billy D...
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Billbo said:
... I am just wondering whether I did have the pick up wires reversed all these years?
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The only way to know is to flash a timing light at the distributor rotor to see where it is relative to the posts when the spark occurs. Crane Cams used to show drilling a hole in an old distributor cap to see, with the engine idling. I think GM guys can even buy transparent caps. But, all you really need to check is that the reluctor teeth align, since the rotor & posts should follow "by design", though manufacturers do screw up, especially when in China. If you do have reversed polarity on the pickup wires, the spark will occur when the rotor is between posts, so might jump to the wrong cylinder. It could work, but not optimally. I recall a youtube by MSD which details it for one of their distributors.
 
Okay got to dig out the Cuda after the Blizzard of 2017. It seems that the pickup module I purchased from Pep Boys was BAD. It was manufactured south of the border. The fin out of the coil of the pickup was some how twisted and loose. After pondering over it awhile I just decided to replace the whole distributor. And low and behold it fired right up. So THANK YOU all for all your replies and help with this. This site is the best!
 
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