I have a Ignition/Spark problem that has me stumped. When I try to start my '73 W200 Power Wagon 318, I turn the key and have nothing. With the key left on the "run" position, crossing the starter relay the engine will crank over but zero spark. I got out my test light and it is showing no power to either side of the coil or ballast resistor. Any thoughts???
Ignition/Spark problem
- Thread starter R72Demon
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Access the ignition switch connector coming out of the column and see what you have there for power. You need to find a wiring diagram.
Have you been working on it? Wiggle the eff out of the bulkhead connector
I don't think? those had a seat belt interlock
You are saying you have NEITHER crank, nor coil voltage?
What DOES work?
Headlights? Brake lights?
Anything with key in accessory? wipers? heater?
Anything "come on" with key in the "run" position? Gauges move? warning lamp(s)?
Have you been working on it? Wiggle the eff out of the bulkhead connector
I don't think? those had a seat belt interlock
You are saying you have NEITHER crank, nor coil voltage?
What DOES work?
Headlights? Brake lights?
Anything with key in accessory? wipers? heater?
Anything "come on" with key in the "run" position? Gauges move? warning lamp(s)?
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Check at the fuse box with a test light or voltmeter. Don't just look at the fuses.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
YOU STILL DID NOT answer my questions. There is a REASON why I asked.
Why did I ask if the HEADLIGHTS WORK? This is because the headlight power branches off from the main power coming through the bulkhead very "early" in the harness. If you do NOT have headlight power at the time you don't have crank or ignition, you probably have bulkhead connector, or ammeter problems
Why did I ask if the ACCESSORIES work? Because the ACCESSORY circuit goes through a different contact in the ignition switch. If the accessories and headlights work, this means that you are likely getting power TO the ignition switch, and that the problem is either in part of the switch, the switch connector, or after the switch
UNDERSTAND there is a REASON why we ask these questions. UNDERSTAND that this is a two way street. If all you want is to shoot the **** and drink beer, well, we can do that. But if you want to fix this, stand up and pay 'tenntion.
I don't know what you are doing. You NEED to find a wiring diagram. You can download one here but it's the wrong year. I have no idea, the difference:
71 or 79. If someone else knows where to get them speak up
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
Then read this article. Even if "not doing" this mod, it goes through "how these work"
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
But more important is the simplified diagram in that article:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
NOTICE that main power comes from the BATTERY............through the FUSE LINK.........through the BULKHEAD........and to the AMMETER
In the sentence above I already mentioned several trouble areas. Hell this could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery terminals!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Since you wiggled the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR this would be my no wha-hon suspect
READ the MAD article and LOOK at the photo on that page of the melted AMMETER. Yours may not LOOK melted, but it might still be the problem.
From the AMMETER, power goes to a Great Big splice in the harness known as the factory welded splice. It is rare, but these DO FAIL.
You need a WIRING DIAGRAM
You need a MULTIMETER
You need a 12 V TEST LAMP.
And when one of us asks you "whut?" You need to answer.
Why did I ask if the HEADLIGHTS WORK? This is because the headlight power branches off from the main power coming through the bulkhead very "early" in the harness. If you do NOT have headlight power at the time you don't have crank or ignition, you probably have bulkhead connector, or ammeter problems
Why did I ask if the ACCESSORIES work? Because the ACCESSORY circuit goes through a different contact in the ignition switch. If the accessories and headlights work, this means that you are likely getting power TO the ignition switch, and that the problem is either in part of the switch, the switch connector, or after the switch
UNDERSTAND there is a REASON why we ask these questions. UNDERSTAND that this is a two way street. If all you want is to shoot the **** and drink beer, well, we can do that. But if you want to fix this, stand up and pay 'tenntion.
I don't know what you are doing. You NEED to find a wiring diagram. You can download one here but it's the wrong year. I have no idea, the difference:
71 or 79. If someone else knows where to get them speak up
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
Then read this article. Even if "not doing" this mod, it goes through "how these work"
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
But more important is the simplified diagram in that article:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
NOTICE that main power comes from the BATTERY............through the FUSE LINK.........through the BULKHEAD........and to the AMMETER
In the sentence above I already mentioned several trouble areas. Hell this could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery terminals!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Since you wiggled the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR this would be my no wha-hon suspect
READ the MAD article and LOOK at the photo on that page of the melted AMMETER. Yours may not LOOK melted, but it might still be the problem.
From the AMMETER, power goes to a Great Big splice in the harness known as the factory welded splice. It is rare, but these DO FAIL.
You need a WIRING DIAGRAM
You need a MULTIMETER
You need a 12 V TEST LAMP.
And when one of us asks you "whut?" You need to answer.
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