Hello forum dwellers, I just picked up a 68 dart GTS 340 numbers matching. Every time the car starts the Amp meter pegs then as soon as I turn on anything electrical, it goes down to the overcharge line on the meter. I’ve done voltage checks. Replaced a bulged battery and installed a new voltage regulator. someone has already done the high voltage bypass through the bulkhead disconnect. I have discovered that four of the wires going into the packard terminals of the ignition switch connector are frayed and burned from overheating due to high resistance.Does anyone have or know where I can get a replacement ignition switch PLUG or CONNECTOR For this car? Even a part number would be helpful. It’s appearing that this is an item only available through scavenging. Thanks in advance for any help.
Ignition switch connector 68 Dart GTS
- Thread starter Kazman
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I'm in the process of making a 67 version. It will be a few weeks till I have a 68 version and perhaps a few more till i have it printed in a more heat friendly material.
(I probably do not have my wires in the correct slots I was just testing fit in this photo)
If your connector is wired this way, the 67 should work. (67 does not use the ground)
this is my 67 prototype
(I probably do not have my wires in the correct slots I was just testing fit in this photo)
If your connector is wired this way, the 67 should work. (67 does not use the ground)
this is my 67 prototype
The frayed wires increases resistance under load so I would plan on either replacing the connectors OR splicing in Proper SOLDERED and heat shrink joints as the big wires have a lot of current passing through them.
In the mean time after the terminals are repaired you could properly insulate the terminals and put them on the switch one at a time till you find a suitable replacement
I just finished soldering all the spade connectors and wrapping them in layers of heat shrink and reattaching them one at a time to the ignition switch. This will work for now. I still have an issue just not as severe so I need to go through the rest of the circuit. My guess is whoever did the high-voltage bypass through the bulkhead connector didn’t make proper connections throughout. Now I have to chase them all down. I just picked up this car and people say for the money I paid it should all work just fine. I laugh and say it’s 57 years old! It’s gonna have problems. Luckily they’re all minor.
You have the battery disconnected while doing this work , correct?
only reason I ask is another member did not recently and had a melt down with an inadvertent short
HOLD the phone.....
If they bypassed the ammeter it should not be showing anything. see if you can get some photos of the front and back of the ammeter. THERE is a possibility that someone did a VOLT meter swap?
Is the car stock or does it have added on electronics (fans, stereo etc)
Did your solder stop the high current charging? I would trace that down fast as that indicates either the VR is getting too little voltage and is increasing the charging to compensate OR there is a large load on the system
only reason I ask is another member did not recently and had a melt down with an inadvertent short
HOLD the phone.....
How was this accomplished?
If they bypassed the ammeter it should not be showing anything. see if you can get some photos of the front and back of the ammeter. THERE is a possibility that someone did a VOLT meter swap?
Is the car stock or does it have added on electronics (fans, stereo etc)
Did your solder stop the high current charging? I would trace that down fast as that indicates either the VR is getting too little voltage and is increasing the charging to compensate OR there is a large load on the system
Whoever did the bypass left the ammeter in line. Why? Who knows. Yes there are more things added such as an electric fan and a gear vendors over underdrive. I believe there is a great probability that whoever did the wiring on this thing did it half assed or just plain didn’t know what they were doing. I need to go through the entire system and make sure all connections are good and clean, all grounds are there, etc. and yes, I disconnect the battery before I mess with any of this unless I’m checking voltages. I worked on three phase equipment for microwave communications in the Marines, and overhead cranes and machine tools used in manufacturing facilities. Up to 440 VAC at 600 amp service. I don’t like getting zapped! I was also able to locate a connector attached to a complete used 1969 barracuda wiring harness. A friend of mine had it as a spare, gave it to me for $40. They use the same connector but a different switch package.
Is the bypass from alternator to battery post on starter relay?
Don’t know. After seeing the condition of the wire terminals at the ignition switch I decided to go through the entire system starting with battery and engine grounds. Surprise! Battery negative to bolt on head. Nothing else for engine ground - head/block to frame or head/block to firewall. Added firewall strap, need to do block to frame. I already pulled out my electrical manual with the bypass instructions and drawings to make sure it is done correctly. (Any wagers it isn’t?) Since I’ve only done it once (successfully) I’ll have reference handy. Why don’t I trust other people’s electrical work?
If the bypass was done by going from alt to starter relay post BUT the rest of the electrical system was left alone the alt gauge might show a draw when things are turned on.
I'll have to do some experamentation
I'll have to do some experamentation
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
When people do a 'wire around' current takes the shortest path so those who have done it report no charging on the ammeter but will show discharging.
@Kazman
Anytime the ammeter pegs, that is way too much current for the circuit.
Either there is a short or whatever was done to the car is really messed up.
Don't mess around. Trace the wires and figure out what was done, and make a new wiring drawing.
You can do a lot visually, then check for continuity to figure out where each wire connects.
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Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
There is no high voltage except in the secondary side of the ignition.
The car should run on power supplied at 13.9 to 14.9 volts but will start with as little as 9.5 volts (with points ignition)
IMO the best thing to do is dump the elctric fan and anything like that. That's the sort of mods that really stuff up the original wiring. The original strategy is really simple and straightfoward, but is not made for managing extra loads like that.
The car should run on power supplied at 13.9 to 14.9 volts but will start with as little as 9.5 volts (with points ignition)
IMO the best thing to do is dump the elctric fan and anything like that. That's the sort of mods that really stuff up the original wiring. The original strategy is really simple and straightfoward, but is not made for managing extra loads like that.
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Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Power is supposed to be supplied from the alternator straight to the main splice with just one connection at the bulkhead.
The fusible link protects the main wires downstream from a big battery short.
The ammeter shows if the battery is charging or discharging.
The fusible link protects the main wires downstream from a big battery short.
The ammeter shows if the battery is charging or discharging.
Dana67 would you happen to have made
They are available aftermarket and NOS and used.Dana67 would you happen to have made
reproductions of the engine side bulkhead disconnect connectors?
there are 3 that are keyed differently. the engine, the wiper and the lighting
This is the engine harness connector but the others are available
Engine Bulkhead Connector Insulator Terminal Kit - 66-70 B-Body 67-74 A-Body
Insulator update...
first prototype fully functional!
second prototype printing right now.
first prototype fully functional!
second prototype printing right now.
I got the design perfected for the 68 up.
@Kazman if you want a preproduction prototype PM me. Ill be having them printed in a better material BUT I have noticed that the dimensions seem to change with that material, so the first ones will be a bit of a trial.
@Kazman if you want a preproduction prototype PM me. Ill be having them printed in a better material BUT I have noticed that the dimensions seem to change with that material, so the first ones will be a bit of a trial.
I found a used harness from a 69 barracuda. Scavenged the connectors I needed from it. Thanks for following!
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