Ignition Switch, Wiring, and AMP Gauge

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1970Dart198

1970Dart198

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Hello FABO!

I recently installed a new ignition switch in my steering column. I used Standard Motor Products Part #US88 for the new part. I had been having intermittent starting issues where I would turn the key and "CLICK"...nothing. I had previously posted about this issue and someone recommended I change my starter switch. The old one was pretty tired out and had a lot of play.

When I turn the new key switch to ON the ALT gauge goes down slightly from the middle, telling me there's juice in the system. When I jiggle the wires from the starter switch the gauge goes back up like its dead! When I jiggle it again it goes back down and is able to fire up. I heard a click a few times when the ALT gauge goes back to dead. I only jiggle the RED wire from the ignition switch harness and this happens.

The clicking noise comes from under my distributor cap, I have the Pertronix kit, and I really hope it's not going on me! My question is, if by jiggling the red ignition switch wire under the dash, could it be a faulty new switch? Could my Pertronix be failing, or simply could the connection from the new switch be loose? Thank you!!
 
What is it that you are calling the "starter switch?" Starter RELAY?

Some possibilities?

Starter relay, or bad connections right at the relay

Bad connections at the bulkhead connector

Yes, bad ignition switch, or bad connections at the switch connector
 
The connector from the steering column is suspect, look to see if there is any discoloration in thus flat, multi-pin connector, if there is , you may be (should be) able to extract the pin on one side, and the socket on the other, and clean them up and make the connection tighter than originally, or simply put a new single wire Male/Female connector.
I had to rescue my parents with a dead 1976 Volare for just this issue when the car was only 3 years old. That heavy red wire carries a LOT of current, and your wiggling is helping make a better connection.
I recommend a new separate connector for the wire, and I am pretty sure you will see the discoloration I refer to.
 
So you assume it is the connection from the ignition switch? I wiggle the red wire and that's what manipulates the AMP gauge. The Starter Relay on my car is 3 years old, perhaps it could be bad, but I suspect the wiring connection from the starter switch has more to do with it because of me jiggling the red wire to get it to work. Could I take a pair of large grip pliers and squeeze/push them together? Right now the terminals are finger tight.
 
You keep saying "starter switch". Mopars don't HAVE one of these

They have a solenoid mounted in/ on the starter

They have a STARTER RELAY mounted in the engine bay

And the ignition switch
 
1970Dart198 said:
So you assume it is the connection from the ignition switch? I wiggle the red wire and that's what manipulates the AMP gauge. The Starter Relay on my car is 3 years old, perhaps it could be bad, but I suspect the wiring connection from the starter switch has more to do with it because of me jiggling the red wire to get it to work. Could I take a pair of large grip pliers and squeeze/push them together? Right now the terminals are finger tight.
Click to expand...
Making it tighter will "fix" it, but if it has oxidized from heat, the problem will likely be waiting to return one day.
If you do a simple repair, you must polish the pin, and use a fine small tip abrasive "something" to polish the inside of the female side. Both sides must be shiny, and have a TIGHT fit or the heat will bring the same problem back eventually.
 
Sorry for the confusion. The starter relay under my hood is three years old. The ignition switch in my steering column is new today. That's the one I connected and jiggle the red wire to get the engine to start up, albeit apparently a shoddy connection because I am jiggling it! I'll disconnect it tomorrow, polish the male and female pins and connectors, use pliers or vice grips to endsure snug and secure fit of the plastic terminal. I'll report from there. Thanks you guys!
 
If I'm not mistaken, A new column mounted ignition switch includes the wires that go to the harness connector below. So you've replaced half of that already. I'll assume if there had been melting or damaged terminals in the harness side of that connection you would have seen it.
Now I suspect you problem is farther away in the harness. May very well be at that amp gauge.
 
RedFish said:
If I'm not mistaken, A new column mounted ignition switch includes the wires that go to the harness connector below. So you've replaced half of that already. I'll assume if there had been melting or damaged terminals in the harness side of that connection you would have seen it.
Now I suspect you problem is farther away in the harness. May very well be at that amp gauge.
Click to expand...
He's right, pull the inst cluster out.
Disconnect battery, check the ring terminals to the ammeter, polish them, make certain they are tight, and look for heat damage at every junction point and connector.
It's a pain in the ***, but less a pain than broke down or a fire.
 
A good read EVEN IF YOU DO NOT PERFORM the mod, is the Mad electrical article on ammeters:

MadElectrical.com - Electrical Tech

This one

Catalog

has a diagram:

amp-ga18.jpg


Which is simplified, and shows SOME of the major fail points in the Mopar system. Follow along each point from the battery.......

Battery........starter relay (stud).......fuse link.......through bulkhead connector (RED)......to ammeter........through ammeter..........out on the BLACK wire......and split off at the WELDED SPLICE.

Not shown from the splice, is from there to the IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR.........through the SWITCH.........back out the SWITCH CONNECTOR.........back through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR

Each and every one of these points "of interest" "along the road" have their failures, terminals, contacts, connections. Even the WELDED SPLICE has failed. That is a factory splice a few inches from the ammeter in the BLACK wire, tucked in the harness up in the cluster.

First one I found was in a parking lot.........68 RR, friend of mine, in the Navy, about 1971?. His ammeter was "nuts." We had my 69 shop manual, (I had a 69 then) and had "most of" the dash torn apart with the cluster out, and the harness cut open all over the seats......and us. We strung a big extension out from his apartment, and I re-made the big splice......with solder. He wasn't too sure!!!! I was going to get this all back together, and neither was I!!!!

img050s.jpg


"Me", NAS Miramar, about that time. Adjusting the glideslope in the GCA trailer.
 
OK, so I found that the standard motor products plastic connector for my ignition switch does NOT fit as well as the original connector!! Thus, when I jiggle the red wire while the car is running, the engine almost wants to die, or if the engine is off and the key is ON, the ammeter shakes. So, what should I do? Should I use Butt Connectors and crimp the old wires and their connector to the new one? Or should I try and get the new and old terminals out and just exchange the connector? It's really hard to get the female connectors out, and the simplest way to do it would be the Butt Connectors. I'm not a big fan of them, but if its what I need to do, then I'll do it. Thoughts? Thanks!
 
Without "being" there that's a tough choice, but in the end you want VERY good connections there. Yet another route would be to put a different connector on such as (cough gag) a GM connector. A GM connector is what 'all' the aftermarket wiring harnesses "default" to for hot rods and general use.
 
I totally agree! Its just hard to disconnect these female connectors from the old plastic connector. I found the tool for the smaller two red wires and the orange wire, but the larger ones dont fit in the tool. Crimping with butt connectors should be good? I have strong hands and a good crimping tool. Also, the connectors will be under the dash and not under the hood. Any ideas for getting the female connectors out?
 
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