Importance of compression ratio vs HP gain

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mini

Small Bore Long Stroke
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I've been delving into my compression ratio again and I got thinking...
Has anyone truly tested same combination engines with say a different piston(dish,flat,dome) to show real world (not Wallace calc) horsepower and torque.

I've found a few articles on it but nothing concrete. Also open to opinions and theories ...
 
The industry standard is about 3% increase for every 1 compression ratio increase.
 
Expansion ratio is the figure which correlates to efficiency. Compression ratio directly effects the expansion ratio.

The curve is not linear. More expansion ratio is always better for power and efficiency. There are compression limits thought before detonation or other adverse effects take over, which is what gives us our typical working envelopes for gasoline.

The intake valve closing event is what establishes the true expansion ratio of our engines, which is why a later closing intake needs more compression - or a later closing intake will tolerate more compression. Either way, compression ratio is not a single variable.

The short version is: its pointless because power is always in the COMBO.
 
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U get a supposedly get a bigger increase Going from 8/9 9/10 than u do from 11/12. Kim

Absolutely. The curve isn't linear. If fuel was perfect and air didn't heat when compressed it would be linear - but reality means there's diminishing returns as compression increases. Wish I still had my old thermodynamics textbook..
 
The big deal with cylinder pressure is not in making absolute power. The difference between an 8/1 engine and an 11/1 engine might amount to 1 cam size on a 400 hp engine.

Rather, the big deal is what happens from idle to ~3500rpm, at Part Throttle. You can run a lot of cylinder pressure in that zone, and have a dynomite combo, where an 8/1 combo could be a complete and utter lazy POS.
Like said;
The short version is: its pointless because power is always in the COMBO.

Streeters are a special kind of challenge.Especially a manual trans combo. They have to operate from idle to say 6000 rpm. This is a nearly impossible deal.
Whereas an automatic might use a 2400 to 3000 stall TC, making a crappy combo seem better than it is.
With a manual trans streeter, it is gonna be spending a lotta lotta time in that idle to 3500rpm window, so to make it fun to drive, it needs a generous amount of cylinder pressure down there. 130 to 140psi is gonna be a frustrating experience. Over 170psi is gonna make a great combo, but generally too much bottom end, rather a lot more than you need.
IMO 155 to 165psi with a 360 is plenty strong enough. But with a 318, youkindof need all you can find...
The thing is this; if you sacrifice too much Ica to get the pressure, then the power goes away at the top.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that it's a delicate balancing act, but it kindof is. And more cubic inches is less critical/ more tolerant of a mismatch.

If you have a manual trans, then, IMO, a 360 is better able to hit more targets, than a smaller engine. You can give up more cylinder pressure,with a bigger cam, to get more top-end power, before the bottom end gets lazy.
Whereas, a 318 is very quickly gonna get doggy with the falling pressure.
 
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AJ is right if the cam is a size able one. And just the reverse for a small cam and a high ratio.

The big thing with the ratio as said above is to keep the dynamic ratio up so the big cam isn’t a set sponge down low in its operating hand. This is adding efficiency (or making sure) the cam is going to be efficient.
 
It’s important but there little you can do about it with pump gas, most with a low power stock low cr engine are stuck with what they got and try for a decent compromise with cam choice.

And for those who can change CR you only can go as high as you cam will allow with the gas your gonna use.

To me pick your cam then the CR you need for that cam. For most it’s not gonna worth squeezing an extra half point, point or so above what’s needed.
 
So long as the pump gas feeds it.....
 
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