Installing 1972 340 manifolds 3614368 (driver's side) and 3418623 (passenger's side, center dump) - Any Exhaust Pipe Clearance Issues to be Aware of?

[Duster256]

Will be swapping out the long tube headers that came with my Duster, with OEM cast iron manifolds. Any exhaust head pipe clearance issues to be aware of on either driver's or passenger's side? Manual steering and manual brake MC, and I'm currently running a shorty WIX oil filter 51311 in the stock locationon the block, no 90-degree oil filter adapter. Any advice would be appreciated - thanks FABO Nation.

 

[1971 CY Dodge Dart]

Which head pipes are you using? Are you making your own?

 

[Duster256]

Will fab my own head pipes

 

[plumkrazee70]

Will fab my own head pipes

What about the flange at the manifold? Are you fabbing that also?

 

[Duster256]

the head pipe-to-manifold flanges were not available. Are repo flanges available?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Since those were a factory option, I don't see an issue, unless you fark the head pipes up.

 

[Duster256]

Since those were a factory option, I don't see an issue, unless you fark the head pipes up.

Thanks RRR.

Since those were a factory option, I don't see an issue, unless you fark the head pipes up.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks RRR.

Sho nuff. Have you thought about the TTI head pipes? A little pricey, but mandrel bent and they are really nice.

 

[Duster256]

Sho nuff. Have you thought about the TTI head pipes? A little pricey, but mandrel bent and they are really nice.

I'll prolly end up having a local muffler shop mandrel-bend the pipes for me. They should also either have in stock or be able to fab up some pipe-to-manifold flanges.

 

[TF360]

Get the TTI head pipes if you can afford them. It's tight on the drivers side. There tail pipes are also unreal. Exhaust shop can't do it well enough

 

[1971 CY Dodge Dart]

Another vote for the TTI. I have those manifolds and the TTI headpipes fit perfectly.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'll prolly end up having a local muffler shop mandrel-bend the pipes for me. They should also either have in stock or be able to fab up some pipe-to-manifold flanges.

Never seen a local muffler shop with a mandrel bender. They are pretty high dollar. I don't think it would matter much on a fairly mild build.

 

[junkyardhero]

Get the TTI head pipes if you can afford them. It's tight on the drivers side. There tail pipes are also unreal. Exhaust shop can't do it well enough

x100 on the TTI head pipes.

you tell 'em what the casting #'s are and what it's going in and they have the pieces that fit exactly.

all of their stuff is top notch, but the head pipes are just such a dream to put in. pair them up with their mid section H or X pipe for a no muss, no fuss install.

 

[toolmanmike]

I'll prolly end up having a local muffler shop mandrel-bend the pipes for me. They should also either have in stock or be able to fab up some pipe-to-manifold flanges.

Or you can buy the TTI pipes and bolt them on. They have already done all the design and engineering.

 

[Duster256]

OK thanks all for the comments re: TTI. I just looked at their head pipes and y'all right about that! I'll prolly go with their head pipes and weld them up to my existing mid pipe/flowmaster/tail pipe/chrome tip set up. Mahalo (thank you) FABO Nation!

 

[CFD244]

My TTI head pipes needed the kick down rod bell crank modified, as well as the kick down rod from the bell crank to the throttle lever. They include instructions on how to do this.

 

[Duster256]

My TTI head pipes needed the kick down rod bell crank modified, as well as the kick down rod from the bell crank to the throttle lever. They include instructions on how to do this.

thanks for the info on the mod.

 

[CFD244]

thanks for the info on the mod.

BTW.....Just a heads up. I bolted and tightened down the pipes then attempted to modify the rod. I messed with that thing for a while and had difficulty making it work without interference. Then, I loosened off the mounting bolts and that gave the pipes a little lateral movement. After that, it was eezy peezy. Morel of the story....Don't bolt the pipes down solid until you modify the rod...It would have been very easy had I did this first.

You can check TTI's web site and the modification instructions are there. Nice pipes BTW.

 

[Duster256]

Thanks for the heads up and tip, I just downloaded the instructions on modifying the rod, also requires narrowing the bracket.

 

[TF360]

With Manifolds you don't have to modify anything. Not on mine anyway. You might have a couple small issues with headers though

 

[Duster256]

My car apparently was a former race car and I'm finding things on it that don't necessarily agree with the factory service and parts manuals. For example, the current motor mount insulators (biscuits) on my car have "2265" molded into the rubber, which according to most aftermarket parts catalogs is for a slant 6 and not a 340 (P/N 2266). I suspect that the former owner installed the taller slanty biscuits in order to gain a bit more engine height for clearance for the long-tube headers that are currently on the car. I suspect that I should install the correct lower 2266 biscuits if I'm going to install the exhaust manifolds.

 

[RustyRatRod]

BTW.....Just a heads up. I bolted and tightened down the pipes then attempted to modify the rod. I messed with that thing for a while and had difficulty making it work without interference. Then, I loosened off the mounting bolts and that gave the pipes a little lateral movement. After that, it was eezy peezy. Morel of the story....Don't bolt the pipes down solid until you modify the rod...It would have been very easy had I did this first.

You can check TTI's web site and the modification instructions are there. Nice pipes BTW.

Now that's the kinda advice that makes a difference!