Anybody got any tips? I've watched a few videos, etc. I installed one side and got a lot of water bubbles. Yes you can pin prick them but it leaves a mark. The issue I have is that you cannot see how well you have squeeged as the protective cover hides everything. Maybe I need to pull it off earlier (instructions say 3 hours) so I can lift the vinyl and reapply it if there are issues. I did order some Rapid TAC Application Fluid to see if it works better than water and dish soap. The Phoenix Graphics gel would cost over $50 up here if I could find it.
Installing Phoenix Graphics 3M tail stripe on a Dart
- Thread starter 1MeanA
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Someone posted here last week saying if you wait a day the bubbles will go away. Not sure if this is true.
Maybe small air bubbles but from what I see they have trapped water in them. I can see why some install vinyl dry but I don't think you can with this type.
I just did mine this morning, but from Performance Car Graphix.
As far as tips go, the solution I use to spray the decal and body panel is a bottle of regular tap water with just 2 drops of dish soap. You want some lubrication to activate adhesion and the ability to move it, but you don't want it 'soapy' necessarily. The water MUST be squeegeed out for the adhesion process to begin. You must do it over and over and over to assure the water and air has been removed. So, again squeegee it and when you think you've done it enough, do it some more. Take your time and get the trapped air and water out so you don't need to resort to popping bubbles. Heat will help as will setting in the sun, but don't rely on that process.
As far as tips go, the solution I use to spray the decal and body panel is a bottle of regular tap water with just 2 drops of dish soap. You want some lubrication to activate adhesion and the ability to move it, but you don't want it 'soapy' necessarily. The water MUST be squeegeed out for the adhesion process to begin. You must do it over and over and over to assure the water and air has been removed. So, again squeegee it and when you think you've done it enough, do it some more. Take your time and get the trapped air and water out so you don't need to resort to popping bubbles. Heat will help as will setting in the sun, but don't rely on that process.
Maybe the new fluid will work better...perhaps it will mist nicer. I will spray it less liberally. It would just be nice to see bubbles before the vinyl is permanently stuck.
Agreed. Again, work it and work it some more. Leave the paper there to squeegee more and you can remove it after some time is allowed for adhesion. I previously applied the long stripe kit for my Dart Sport (in the avatar) and most recently my son's 69 Dart tail stripe.
try leaving the car out in the sun on a hot day. 3M material is porous .
The other side and the deck lid don't go much better. You just can't see anything because of the protective cover as its so opaque. I squeegeed 3 or 4 times and still. I used a needle to drain the big ones. Its been out in the sun a few times and looks not bad although the needle marks are still visible. I might live with it but I wonder where you can buy stripes with no protective cover even if you have to do the small stripes separate? Like this:
We are in today so feel free to call us for assistance. You have received good suggestions from the forum members.
You don't want to buy a decal without premask and try to apply. You will scratch the decal with the squeege as you attempt to put it on your car.
Temperatures between 70-90 degrees is suggested for applications.
You don't want to buy a decal without premask and try to apply. You will scratch the decal with the squeege as you attempt to put it on your car.
Temperatures between 70-90 degrees is suggested for applications.
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