Installing Single Piston Calipers

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Andre68

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Well, this was my first time doing it and as simple as I believe it was, I had a real hard time due to the fact that I could not find any video or well written instructions for it, The forum threads sure helped but as for like a tutorial, couldnt find one for A body cars.

I dont know if i did this right, which is why im posting this, if it is right I hope this can maybe help someone who had the same issue as me.

What I had:
73 plymouth duster rotor
Caliper from oreillys
raybestos brake pads

1. After the rotor was installed to the spindle, I attached the adapter to the spindle.

2. I then put the included rubber bands on the adapter, then put the inner brake pad into the adapter.

3. Then I put the other brake pad into the caliper and put the caliper onto the rotor.


4. I installed the little clips onto the top and bottom of the adapter and caliper.

and that was it! i think! I still have to buy new brake lines and hoses, rebuild or get a new master cylinder, but I decided to include this portion of the brakes as part of my front end rebuild.

My only issue is I dont know how close the pads have to be to the rotor? There is a slight gap if I push the pads away from the rotor, but the pad on the outer side (visible from the front), hangs just low enough to touch the hub area? on the rotor. I can also move it up and down (toward caliper, and then away from the caliper.

I dont know if this is normal or if it will fix when I fill it with brake fluid with the lines and all that.

If someone can shed some light on this, that would be great!! Thanks!
 

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I forgot to mention that my car is a 68 dodge dart, but the front end parts are from a 73 plymouth duster.
 
OK first the gap... The only return effect of a brake caliper is the O ring inside being
square profile. Once you pump the pedal and get the pad to touch the rotor brake surface, relaxed pedal and the square O ring causes the piston to retract just a hair.
Now the outer pad touching the hub... The pads backing plate is stamped steel. There is not close tolerance in this or the machining of the caliper. There should be a small amount of brake quiet adhesive applied on the mating surfaces but without or without that adhesive, after the caliper is pumped out tight, Poke a wedge like a cold chisel between the bottom of the pad backing plate and hub. Use another chisel and hammer to knock the 2 stamped ears on top down tight to the caliper. Usually just one good hit on each is all that is required to adjust those ears to hold the pad up.
 
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