Instrument Cluster Rebuilding

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schmoe

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Hello,

I am new to the forum (hello all).

I just bought a 1965 Dart GT /6 with 80K miles. It has been in storage for 16+ years.

Now that is back on the road, I am experiencing instrument panel problems.
Examples:
- fuel and temp gauges are wrong,
- speedo bounces,
- when headlights are on and I hit the blinkers the speedo light dims at every blink and the high beam light and both blinker indicator (on the dash) light up.

I was wondering if anyone has had their cluster rebuilt and where did you do it?

Any help would be great.

Joe
 
Hello,

I am new to the forum (hello all).

I just bought a 1965 Dart GT /6 with 80K miles. It has been in storage for 16+ years.

Sounds like a good find!

- fuel and temp gauges are wrong,

How are they wrong? Both too low, both too high, both flicker/bounce? The problem is probably the instrument cluster voltage limiter, which on the '65 Dart is built into the fuel gauge. See here and here.

speedo bounces

See here.

when headlights are on and I hit the blinkers the speedo light dims at every blink and the high beam light and both blinker indicator (on the dash) light up.

That's a ground problem caused by corrosion or missing ground connections or missing screws that hold the instrument cluster to the dash.

You'll want to pick up these three books. Also, tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread, and the engine's probably overdue for a valve adjustment.
 
Thank you for adding input to my troubled gauge debacle.

Here is a better example of the symptoms I have:

Fuel Gauge - The fuel gauge reads empty when there is over 10 gallons left. I have replaced the tank with a Spectra one. The Sender was replaced when I bought the car, so I checked the ohms and it equally drops from 75 to 9 ohm. In an effort to trick or test the dash gauge, I slightly bend the float arm down. This registered the level higher.

Temperature Gauge - The gauge seems to work fine sometimes and other times, it say I am about to overheat. More often than not, it says I am going to boil over any second. I have professionally boiled out the radiator, flushed the block, replace the 180 t-stat, replaced water pump, and all hoses. I have tested the temp with a laser temp gauge and it is running between 175 and 185. ** I also changed the sending unit. However the new unit reads that the engine is even hotter. I am not using any tape or sealant on the threads to make sure the sender is properly grounded.

Alternator Gauge - Seems to work fine.

Dash Lights - At night, I can see that the temp and fuel lights are slightly pulsating. I assume this is from the 5v voltage limits contact. Also, when the headlights are on, if I hit the turn signals all the lights flash on or dim with the beat of the flasher - except from the gauges right. I have replaced the headlight switch to correct the previous flickering of the dash lights.

Speedometer Bounce - Seems to work fine with speed and such, the needle just bounces more at certain speeds.



** I am willing to buy new stuff to correct this. However, I am having a hard time actually finding the gauges. I saw a fuel gauge on a website for $125 but for the life of me, I can find that site again.

Any help would be much appreciated. ( I am going to re-read through the links you sent me now)

-Joe
 
Joe,

Chrysler made a test set long time ago, if you look in the service manual it talks about it. I Did this to test mine. First know this, never put 12vdc right to a gauge you will fry it. So I use a test light in line with the gauges (temp and fuel) with the test light inline with the gauge it draws the needle mid point for both. I have a new sender in my 64 and it is not as lineal as it should be. The service manual also talks about boiling water and putting the sender in it and read the ohms out, sounds like a bad sender to me.

The voltage limiter on the back of the dash can also get replaced with a solid state one.

You said your lights flicker with the voltage limiter? That has nothing to do with it, or if it is you have alot of problems with you dash.

My spedo in both the 64 and 65 seem to bounce from 0-25 until I have been driving for a bit, I think its the gauge on the 65 everthing is new but the gauge.
 
Just to clarify... read the "ohms"? I think you mean, read the "resistance" which is measured in ohms. You use an ohmmeter to read the resistance of the variable resistor which in this case happens to be a fuel sender unit.
 
Just a note on the bouncing speedo, and you have probably already cheched this, but sometimes the simple stuff get overlooked.

I had the same issue with my 74 swinger, drove me nuts until I checked the transmission end of the cable. Sure enough it was loose. I tightened it up and the speedo is working perfect again.

Hope it helps
 
Pull the speedo cable and lube it, check to make sure the cable has "natural bends" in it and not cork screwed or helix looking! That should take care of the speedometer! As for the guages, remember these are old cars with old wiring. Make sure your grounded from the enging block to the body and negative side of battery is firmly and cleanly attached to engine block. My car was missing the body ground strap from the engine block to the firewall. Made a new one and man what a difference it made. Something to look at!

John B.
 
Just went through my dash . I'm in the process of checking instruments now . One thing i did was get rid of the old voltage limiter and went solid state. You can by them on Ebay for about $20. or make your own for $5. Doing this will give you a constant 5v with no spikes. Go to allpar.com they have pictures and detail discription on how to make them and you can get everything at radio shack, I think it cost me about $4.80 for everything. Also check your grounds and at your gas tank.
 
You can give me a call at Redline Gauge Works, we specialize in the repair and restoration of Mopar instrument panels. I can tell you exactly how to test your gauges and do some simple fixes. Give me a call at (661) 259-8891 ask for Shannon
 
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