Instrument Panel Lights Dim

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RedSwinger

RedSwinger

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My 72 Swinger has VERY dim instrument panel light, and the A/C - heater lights are out. Any experts out there that can tell me how to fix these issues? Thanks in advance!
 
RedSwinger said:
My 72 Swinger has VERY dim instrument panel light, and the A/C - heater lights are out. Any experts out there that can tell me how to fix these issues? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

the lights that are burnout out/dim are a common light you can buy from most auto parts stores. There are also LED style bulb replacements available. All you have to do is pull out the cluster, and on the back of the cluster are light "sockets" that you twist and pull out....replace bulb.....put back together. very simple.
 
Thanks, does the cluster remove with te screws at the top edge, or is there some secret to removal?
 
It's likely the bulbs have blackened with age. You can get brighter bulbs (use Sylvania #2825 if you want to keep the white or bluish-white illumination, or #2827 if you want amber or green illumination; you pick white/bluish or amber/green by keeping or deleting the blue plastic balloons surrounding the bulbs in most instrument clusters). Also keep in mind the instrument light rheostat built into the headlamp switch will tend to corrode and build up resistance over the years, which will dim the dash lights.

The "LED bulbs" aren't dangerous to use inside the car like they are outside in the car's safety lights (brake, turn, marker, etc.), but they also don't work very well because filament bulbs send their light out evenly in all directions, while LEDs emit a very one-directional beam so you wind up with bright and dark areas in the dash.
 
RedSwinger said:
Thanks, does the cluster remove with te screws at the top edge, or is there some secret to removal?
Click to expand...

Yes there are screws around the cluster that you have to remove, three at the top and three along the bottom of it. you also have to reach up under the dash to dissconnect the speedometer cable(just has a plastic clip on it you can feel) and you also have to remove the headlight switch (reach under the dash and push in the little plastic button on the side of it to pull out the headlight knob). remove the little ring around the wiper knob to get that out. Then you will be able to get the cluster out a few inches......then you have to unplug the harness that goes into the cluster from the back....you just have to pull on it. And also the wires that go to the Amp meter. then remove.
 
RedSwinger said:
Thanks, does the cluster remove with te screws at the top edge, or is there some secret to removal?
Click to expand...

Hey red swinger,
The column needs to be dropped out of the way.
Please see Fern's restore thread on this site. It's under "Members restorations" Then go to "ABodyBetty's new Baby comes home".
I have redone lights, pulled inst. cluster, dropped column, its all on there with pictures circles and arrows! Also weird humor and helper dogs too!
Good Luck! Keep us in the loop!8)
 
And don't forget to disconnect the negative battery cable!!!
 
Thanks all! When I owned my 73 Singer back in the 70's, I think I just ran my hand up the back of the dash and removed the sockets. I was a lot younger and more imber back then! LOL
 
I thought of the dimmer on the headlight switch like slantsixdan mentioned. It may be tired after all these years. The lenses over the bulbs tend to get darker with age too which will also lead to dimmer lights.
 
slantsixdan said:
It's likely the bulbs have blackened with age. You can get brighter bulbs (use Sylvania #2825 if you want to keep the white or bluish-white illumination, or #2827 if you want amber or green illumination; you pick white/bluish or amber/green by keeping or deleting the blue plastic balloons surrounding the bulbs in most instrument clusters). Also keep in mind the instrument light rheostat built into the headlamp switch will tend to corrode and build up resistance over the years, which will dim the dash lights.

The "LED bulbs" aren't dangerous to use inside the car like they are outside in the car's safety lights (brake, turn, marker, etc.), but they also don't work very well because filament bulbs send their light out evenly in all directions, while LEDs emit a very one-directional beam so you wind up with bright and dark areas in the dash.
Click to expand...

I agree, better to switch to a modern brighter bulb, thats what I was thinking but said LED.
 
When I brought the Demon home, it had 2 lights working out of ten. Some had bulbs that were burned out, others had bad sockets that wouldn't hold tight against the circuit board. The sockets are available also. Made a ton of difference when all the lights worked!!
 
I think I remember somewhere reading that you can also clean the copper strip that carries the electrical current using of all things-ketchup!!!!!!! I don't remember where I saw this, it may have been here on these forums but the pictures speak for themselves. The before and after pics were proof that this does work.
 
The tinted diffusers are there for 2 reasons. They spread the light evenly to prevent bright spots and glares just like the lamp shades in your home.
Then the prevent a loose bulb from falling down inside the panel.
While there are 10 or more bulbs in the average panel , less than half are for illumination. All others are for indicaters.
If I pull a panel for any reason I'll replace every bulb while its out.
I solder a jumper on the headlight switch to bypass the dimmer reostat too which sends maximum power to those few illumination bulbs.

a note about the katsup cleaning...sure it works .Texas Pete will too. The problem will come from the salt in those products.
 
64dart170 said:
Even with an extensive water rinse after??
I usually submerge hot soapy water, then rinse. Will that be OK then?
Click to expand...

LOL and water is the second ingredient required. Google the word "retsyn".
If I wanted to impress a child I might shine a penny with hot sauce.
I'll continue to use scotch bright and WD-40 to clean copper contact points.
 
RedFish said:
LOL and water is the second ingredient required. Google the word "retsyn".
If I wanted to impress a child I might shine a penny with hot sauce.
I'll continue to use scotch bright and WD-40 to clean copper contact points.
Click to expand...

Hey Redfish,
I didn't have any scothcbrite or money for it.

NOW WHAT MISERY HAVE I CAUSED ME AND FABO MEMBERSHIP???? PLEASE HELP!!!
WHAT DID I DO WITH THE SECOND INGEDIENT WATER??????!!!!! HELP PLEASE!!!

Wasn't rying to impress children, I'm just a stupid country boy.
I'm not understanding the exact harm I have done to my board, how to reverse that harm.

Would you mind humoring me and helping me and others out? Please tell me exactly how I have damaged mine & others boards and I will also post warning on my restore thread. Some FABO members may have done this already.

Please help! I'm a total moron!
You help & knowledge are so right on all the time.

Retsyn is a trademarked name for a combination of copper gluconate and partially hydrogenated cottonseed oil, held by Cadbury Adams (a division of Cadbury Schweppes). It is an ingredient in Certs, Certs Cool Mint Drops, and Certs Power Mints.
According to a Pfizer FAQ Page, Retsyn, in addition to the flavor, is responsible for the efficacy of Certs against breath odors. The hydrogenated vegetable oil and the copper gluconate absorb odors in the mouth. The copper gluconate is also responsible for Retsyn's green color.

ALSO:
SEE:
Copper gluconate

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Jump to: navigation, search
Copper gluconateSystematic (IUPAC) nameCopper(II) gluconateIdentifiersCAS number527-09-3ATC codeV03AB20PubChem ?Chemical dataFormulaC12H22CuO14Mol. mass453.8Pharmacokinetic dataBioavailability ?Metabolism ?Half life ?Excretion ?Therapeutic considerationsPregnancy cat.?
Legal statusRoutesOral
Copper gluconate is the copper salt of D-gluconic acid.
[edit] Uses

[edit] Side effects

Toxic in large amounts. Side effects from too much copper gluconate may include breathing problems, chest pain, stomach upset, and rash or hives.
[edit] External links

 
RedSwinger said:
My 72 Swinger has VERY dim instrument panel light, and the A/C - heater lights are out. Any experts out there that can tell me how to fix these issues? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

RedSwinger,
I am truly sorry for misinforming you. I never meant any harm. I was just trying to help.
I probibly won't be doing any helping anymore because I'm such a dumb Ace!

I am sorry too for posts. Didn't mean to take over your thread.
I will humbly crawl into my hole now.

If I caused harm to your boards by you following my instructions, PM me let me know and I will get different boards for you.
Again, I am sorry.
John.
 
I had some similar problems with the Dart. I spent an afternoon cleaning up the wiring harness/bunkhead connections. All of the lights in the car were brighter and the fan motor turned much faster after I was done. I used (up) a can of Electrical Contact Cleaner that I got from an electrical shop back in the vacuum tube TV days. (Remember those 13 channel TV tuning knobs?):glasses9:
 
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