Intake bolts question/opinions wanted

-

70SwingerGuy

Long Haired Freaky Person
Joined
Dec 18, 2023
Messages
1,226
Reaction score
1,431
Location
Republic of Western Canada
340 with Edelbrock heads/intake here, and I want to change intake manifold bolts. Will it be ok to change/retorque them one at a time without having to pull the intake off, new gaskets etc?
I personally think it would be ok, but I tend to overthink things and just wanted to check with the experts here :)
Thanks FABO
 
What kind of intake bolts are you using? I like using stainless, because the chance for rust stains later is non existant.
 
I hadnt decided for sure yet, either some 12 point black ARPs, or some black socket cap screws, I like stainless a lot too, but I have kind of a black theme going on with my motor :)
I agree with hootenanny up there about using sealant on the bolts. I'd use black RTV. It acts as a sealant and anti seize. Anti seize won't seal. RTV does both.
 
I hadnt decided for sure yet, either some 12 point black ARPs, or some black socket cap screws, I like stainless a lot too, but I have kind of a black theme going on with my motor :)
i would strongly advise against allen socket caps. they can present a problem with tool clearance on the inner most bolts where the room is limited due to the plenum of the manifold.

basically, the allen socket is too tall to get in there.

*manifold dependent, naturally
 
i would strongly advise against allen socket caps. they can present a problem with tool clearance on the inner most bolts where the room is limited due to the plenum of the manifold.

basically, the allen socket is too tall to get in there.

*manifold dependent, naturally
Yeah and I was gonna recommend 86in the 12 pointers. I've had too many of them strip. I like the reduced hex head intake bolts kinda like header bolts.
 
Yeah and I was gonna recommend 86in the 12 pointers. I've had too many of them strip. I like the reduced hex head intake bolts kinda like header bolts.
i'm ambivalent on 12's

if they're good quality, sure why not. but hong-kong phooey ones that strip easy and stainless that rust? miss me with those, thanks.

the reduced head ones are nice, but kind of a chore to hunt down. i think mcmaster has them though.
 
I agree with hootenanny up there about using sealant on the bolts. I'd use black RTV. It acts as a sealant and anti seize. Anti seize won't seal. RTV does both.
Thats good info
permatex 59235 is what you want

or like spanky said some good ol' RTV will do the job too.
Dang, I only have 80634
i would strongly advise against allen socket caps. they can present a problem with tool clearance on the inner most bolts where the room is limited due to the plenum of the manifold.

basically, the allen socket is too tall to get in there.

*manifold dependent, naturally
That also is good info, Ill have to check that out before buying anything
EDIT: Just had a DOH moment here, socket cap is what I have on right now ...haha
Thanks guys :)
 

i'm ambivalent on 12's

if they're good quality, sure why not. but hong-kong phooey ones that strip easy and stainless that rust? miss me with those, thanks.

the reduced head ones are nice, but kind of a chore to hunt down. i think mcmaster has them though.
I know what you mean. 30 seconds and I'm slam outta breath.
 
i'm ambivalent on 12's

if they're good quality, sure why not. but hong-kong phooey ones that strip easy and stainless that rust? miss me with those, thanks.

the reduced head ones are nice, but kind of a chore to hunt down. i think mcmaster has them though.
If I go the 12 route, it will be with ARP, so no worries there
 
So heres a question, if I go the ARP route, would I just use the lube that they supply and never mind the sealant? Ive read that you MUST use ARP's lube if I comes with their bolts.
Also, according to their spec sheet, they recommend a torque of 45 ft/lbs for a 3/8 bolt, but isnt the torque according to Mopar supposed to be 35 for the intake bolts?
 
Just spit ballin'

If going with ARP, do they not typically have a substantially higher torque spec? Thinking that I would torque them to OEM values one at a time, then once they are all changed......Torque to ARP specs in the recommended pattern.

LOL.....Treed by the OP :thumbsup:
 
Just spit ballin'

If going with ARP, do they not typically have a substantially higher torque spec? Thinking that I would torque them to OEM values one at a time, then once they are all changed......Torque to ARP specs in the recommended pattern.
Yup, 10 ft/lbs more in this case
 
So heres a question, if I go the ARP route, would I just use the lube that they supply and never mind the sealant? Ive read that you MUST use ARP's lube if I comes with their bolts.
Also, according to their spec sheet, they recommend a torque of 45 ft/lbs for a 3/8 bolt, but isnt the torque according to Mopar supposed to be 35 for the intake bolts?
I would ignore their lubricant, clean the bolts thoroughly and use sealant. In this instance, the bolts are threading through the heads and into the crankcase. You will have oil migrate up the threads and pool on the intake if you do not use sealant.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top Bottom