Intake heat shield -- Remove??

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3406pk

3406pk

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I'm in process of assembling my 340 engine, basically stock rebuild and using J heads and stock cast intake. The shield below the heat crossover is still in place and I wonder if it will leak crud/carbon out into new engine. Should I remove it or leave it. I am going to block off the heat crossover with the block off gaskets.
 

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I would definitely remove, clean, reinstall. In case you don't know, those are spiral fluted rivets called drivet. Small cold chisel, counterclockwise blow or 3 then plier to back them out.
 
Thanks Redfish. I didn't know about the trick of removing the drivets. Thanks.
 
It's an extra layer to help insulate the intake manifold from heat. I'd clean it up and re-install it.
 
Yeah, I think I'll put it back on if rivets hold tight. Thanks everyone for help.
 
It is there to keep the hot oil from instantly vaporizing when it hits the (very) hot exhaust crossover.

I have not seen any aftermarket intakes (without the crossover) that have provisions for this plate. As you stated, it is great place for crud to accumulate over time.
 
For sure, remove, clean, reinstall, blocked cross over or not.
 
Even though the crossover does heat up the fuel in the carb, doesn't it also help equal left and right exhaust pressures ? I see it sort of like the H pipe in dual exhaust only on a smaller scale. Once the heat riser in stock manifolds is fully open anyway.
Everyone has their own plans and goals. For myself, I just couldn't find a good enough reason to block the crossover. More like since I will drive it on clear but cold winter days I had equal reason to not block it off.
By the way.. Inside original crankcase breather is another place for yesteryears nastiness to hide. The element may be fiberglass mesh like hairs that could get pulled into the engine.
 
reused drivets will not be as tight as new. clean and clean and loctite, or good luck finding new drivets. with blocked crossover no shield is no big deal
 
I know those things have been in engines since the beginning of time, but removing the pins and putting them back make me nervous. I dreaded the though of one falling out and down into the engine.

I removed mine on my factory 340 intake, blocked the crossover and installed one of these in the valley..


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-25150/overview/

mor-25100_ml.jpg


NOTE: It doesn't work if you plan on running solid lifters.

AFTER installing the loops to the pan I peen the ends of the machine screws so the nuts can't back off.
 
Bad Sport said:
I know those things have been in engines since the beginning of time, but removing the pins and putting them back make me nervous. I dreaded the though of one falling out and down into the engine.

I removed mine on my factory 340 intake, blocked the crossover and installed one of these in the valley..


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-25150/overview/

mor-25100_ml.jpg


NOTE: It doesn't work if you plan on running solid lifters.

AFTER installing the loops to the pan I peen the ends of the machine screws so the nuts can't back off.
Click to expand...

First time I saw one: A fresh rebuilt 340.... The new owner put the Slap Stick in neutral,gave a free rev. All of a sudden,a backfire & lost cylinders. Whoever installed it,never check for pushrods rubbing....:eek:ops:
 
Abodybomber said:
First time I saw one: A fresh rebuilt 340.... The new owner put the Slap Stick in neutral,gave a free rev. All of a sudden,a backfire & lost cylinders. Whoever installed it,never check for pushrods rubbing....:eek:ops:
Click to expand...



Yeah, I had to trim mine in a couple of spots, it works fine though.
 
yes, moroso lifter valley baffle, I run 1 trimmed for pushrod clearance with solid lifters, keeps hot oil off the full length of intake, may not clear tall lifters without more trimming
 
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