Intake Manifold Gaskets

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J

JW MOPAR

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Hey guys still working on this 273 I picked up and have a question about intake manifold gaskets. The heads on this 273 have been milled .075 and the gap I have between the intake manifold and heads is .075. OEM gaskets are .060. I have found on Summit gaskets that are .125 thick (part #5624-125) but I am afraid that will be too thick and possibly give me issues with bolt hole alignment with the intake and heads. Other than loading up with silicone to make up the difference which I don't want to do, any idea of where I could get gaskets in between the .060 and .125? Or any other suggestions? Thanks.
 
Try Superformance products. He is a Mopar guy. Even if you don’t see it, he might have or make it.
I had 2 different thicknesses to try on my intake I bought from him
 
Trying to figure how you got that kinda gap at the intake. Stock 273/318 intake gaskets are shim gaskets, about .015. Your intake gaps should have gotten tighter.

20240414_201211.jpg
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Trying to figure how you got that kinda gap at the intake. Stock 273/318 intake gaskets are shim gaskets, about .015. Your intake gaps should have gotten tighter.

View attachment 1716236781
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@Cruze418 you really have me thinking about that and I believe you are absolutely right. What I did was set the intake on the engine and also placed the cork front and rear gaskets on the block. That is how I got my gap measurement thinking that the front and rear cork gasket wasn't going to compress very much. Thoughts?
 
I have 3 sets of the speedmaster intake gaskets , they claim .060¨ but mine measure out at .090¨ , 340-360 port size though
 
I would test fit intake without the cork end rail gaskets I think you will see a big difference. We toss the cork end rail gaskets and just use silicone make sure if you have pins on the end rail, they are removed also they can hold the intake manifold from sitting down also. Here is a picture of a 318 just so you can see the surface with the end rail pins removed.

20221015_122207.jpg
 
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Yeah, pitch the cork China rail seals. Set the intake on and see what you have, can you get the intake bolts in or started? Also, though they will work, there's a big difference between 273/318 and 340/360 intake gaskets. Exhaust ports between the two are really different vertically, I wouldn't cross those.
 
Check again without the cork, just side gaskets only. I had a "similar" problem on my build. Mocked up intake with side gaskets only, then went to assemble with the cork front/back and it was a ***** to install as the intake now was a titch too high.
Cork or rtv for China rails is a personal decision. Either way let everything fully cure before adding fluids.
 
SMCARNUT said:
I would test fit intake without the cork end rail gaskets I think you will see a big difference. We toss the cork end rail gaskets and just use silicone make sure if you have pins on the end rail, they are removed also they can hold the intake manifold from sitting down also. Here is a picture of a 318 just so you can see the surface with the end rail pins removed.

View attachment 1716236792
4spdragtop said:
Check again without the cork, just side gaskets only. I had a "similar" problem on my build. Mocked up intake with side gaskets only, then went to assemble with the cork front/back and it was a ***** to install as the intake now was a titch too high.
Cork or rtv for China rails is a personal decision. Either way let everything fully cure before adding fluids.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Thanks SMCARNUT. I will consider the silicone.
 
4spdragtop said:
Check again without the cork, just side gaskets only. I had a "similar" problem on my build. Mocked up intake with side gaskets only, then went to assemble with the cork front/back and it was a ***** to install as the intake now was a titch too high.
Cork or rtv for China rails is a personal decision. Either way let everything fully cure before adding fluids.
Click to expand...
Thanks 4spdragtop. I will try this. I really prefer not to use the silicone.
 
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