Intake manifold is it stock..which gaskets to use

-
I'm sure you'll get lots of conflicting testimonials on what brand of paint to use. I don't have a big preference, but one thing I do is warm the intake to like a 150deg, paint it, then bake it at 250deg for about a 1/2hr or so, then turn off the oven and let it cool thoroughly before handling it.
One more suggestion, do it when the wife ( or girlfriend) is out of the house for a few hours. They get a little testy if they see it happening, LOL.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I'm sure you'll get lots of conflicting testimonials on what brand of paint to use. I don't have a big preference, but one thing I do is warm the intake to like a 150deg, paint it, then bake it at 250deg for about a 1/2hr or so, then turn off the oven and let it cool thoroughly before handling it.
One more suggestion, do it when the wife ( or girlfriend) is out of the house for a few hours. They get a little testy if they see it happening, LOL.
Click to expand...
No recoat after?? Or few coats before you bake it??.. I think my wife would let me bake it...she is into cars!
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
No recoat after?? Or few coats before you bake it??.. I think my wife would let me bake it...she is into cars!
Click to expand...
the reason I warm it up first, is to evaporate whatever moisture may be deep in the rough cast surface first, before you paint. Some people might use a metal etch primer, too. That's what I would do, but I don't know that it's necessary.
 
rustycowll69 said:
the reason I warm it up first, is to evaporate whatever moisture may be deep in the rough cast surface first, before you paint. Some people might use a metal etch primer, too. That's what I would do, but I don't know that it's necessary.
Click to expand...
Been beating on this thing ..any ideas how to get manifold off without hulk break!!
 
you probably already have it off. but for future reference, I use a pry bar under the fitting for the water pump bypass hose, and use small block of wood on top of the flat top part of the timing cover to pry against. I suppose the same could be accomplished with a plastic wedge on the gasket area of the front "China wall". I have a small orange-colored wedge that I got from a STIHL chainsaw shop, which would do the trick.
 
rustycowll69 said:
you probably already have it off. but for future reference, I use a pry bar under the fitting for the water pump bypass hose, and use small block of wood on top of the flat top part of the timing cover to pry against. I suppose the same could be accomplished with a plastic wedge on the gasket area of the front "China wall". I have a small orange-colored wedge that I got from a STIHL chainsaw shop, which would do the trick.
Click to expand...
Yes it's off gasket surface cleaned and have it soaking..now gonna clean heads..motor is spotless inside!!! Nice to see!!
 
Run it for a day or 2, retorque. A few weeks later retorque again to 40 . And the stock thermostat house was aluminum
 
Not bad for my first primer job.and my wire wheels to get old paint off..few coats of finish paint and I'm in!!

1523839177149472464082.jpg
 
TrailBeast said:
Use the Felpro print O seal gaskets (blue with the waxy looking coating) with a thin film of RTV on both sides around all the coolant ports.
RTV or Right Stuff the corners and both ends instead of the cork, and also use sealer on the intake bolt threads.
Most feel that sealing the threads is good enough, but I like to use sealer between the bolt shaft and heads as well, as it keeps oil from weeping between the gaskets and intake allowing oil to come up around the bolts even though the threads are sealed.

It also helps to set the intake on dry first, and find out what the front and rear gap is going to be so you don't undershoot the height of the sealant and have a leak.

Also note that left front corner (passenger side) of the intake where it mates with the China wall, as they come together a little strangely in that corner.

I try to do the sealer and get the intake on as quickly as possible after the China wall beads so the sealer actually sticks to the intake when it sets down.
The chances of it leaking is much higher if you let the sealer skin over before the intake goes on.

I have only done about 50 of them, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.:D

Also my opinion is to practice porting on something that doesn't have to be used as dukeboy mentioned.
It's just WAY too easy to trash a head when beginning.

BTW, I only EVER use red RTV on thermostat housings with no gasket and never have leaks there either.
Put it together with the sealer wet, and wipe off any that seeps out the edges, and it should be ready to go as soon as it's assembled and filled.

Also, on the thermostat, do yourself a favor while it's out and drill a 1/8 hole in the plate of the stat and you will never have air bubbles in the engine when refilling with coolant.
The hole lets the air circulate out before the engine ever warms up, removing the possible burping out of the coolant before the stat opens.



Here's an example when done and running.

View attachment 1715159237

View attachment 1715159238
Click to expand...
Ok have a few bolts for intake that don't look good so I sent wife to store and she went to hardware store and they gave her these ..said they were hard but they have washer built in..is it ok to use them and should I just get all new then?? Or do I need specific bolts for it??

15238395553791223197660.jpg
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Ok have a few bolts for intake that don't look good so I sent wife to store and she went to hardware store and they gave her these ..said they were hard but they have washer built in..is it ok to use them and should I just get all new then?? Or do I need specific bolts for it??
Click to expand...

Your choice on all new or all whatever, but those will work mechanically.
Personally at the very least I would like all the same.

1.5 inch or so, right?
 
that should be ok. I use a little permatex #2, the dark brown tarry like stuff, on the threads so oil doesn't wick up the threads. Just a dab on the bottom few threads should do it.
 
rustycowll69 said:
that should be ok. I use a little permatex #2, the dark brown tarry like stuff, on the threads so oil doesn't wick up the threads. Just a dab on the bottom few threads should do it.
Click to expand...
I'm using right stuff for the first time...hate steering away from what I know works but I hear good things about it and we will see!!
 
rustycowll69 said:
that should be ok. I use a little permatex #2, the dark brown tarry like stuff, on the threads so oil doesn't wick up the threads. Just a dab on the bottom few threads should do it.
Click to expand...

I do the threads and up under the bolt heads both, because it's common for oil to get between the intake gaskets and heads/intake a little and come up anyway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top