Intake manifold is it stock..which gaskets to use

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Originalowner73 340duster said:
Also what do you use on the temp and oil sensors..permatex or Teflon tape?!
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If you try to do under the bolt heads with that stuff it's make a big *** mess of your intake, or not seal anyway.

Use your Right stuff on the threads and under the heads of the bolts both and wipe it off around each bolt head if needed as you go.

No Teflon on sensors because it can keep the metal to metal contact from happening and the sensor won't read on the gauge because they don't have a ground.
The canned gasket sealer would be ok for those.
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Also what do you use on the temp and oil sensors..permatex or Teflon tape?!
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blue loctite works. Teflon tape is acceptable IF you apply it correctly: start wrapping it holding it back from the first two threads so you don't have boogers of tape escaping the threaded hole bottom. You also have to wrap the tape in the correct direction. The wrong way will ball up the tape and unravel it when you screw the thread in. The right way eases it in. If you look at the male thread end-on, it should be wrapped CW.
 
The reviews on the right stuff say you have limited time to bolt it together before it sets up. It probably works great for trans pans and differential covers, but I'd be a little leary using it on an intake, because it takes time to tighten some of the bolts. Reviews also caution that it is extremely hard to remove the part afterwards. I would not use it on the threads at all, because you're going to have to retorque the bolts, and Permatex #2 remains soft and gooey which is ideal for that. But it's your deal, so let us know how it works for you.
 
rustycowll69 said:
The reviews on the right stuff say you have limited time to bolt it together before it sets up. It probably works great for trans pans and differential covers, but I'd be a little leary using it on an intake, because it takes time to tighten some of the bolts. Reviews also caution that it is extremely hard to remove the part afterwards. I would not use it on the threads at all, because you're going to have to retorque the bolts, and Permatex #2 remains soft and gooey which is ideal for that. But it's your deal, so let us know how it works for you.
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I think I just changed my mind,,thanks..I used it on my thermostat housing..and I was saying I hate useing new stuff..I'll just use what I know works,I'm not doing it twice!!and I used it on my thermostat so that will be my test...
 
Very contraversal.subject..which rtv for front and rear of intake manifold.....I've done **** tone of bikes but not cars..can't find the stuff I used to use on them..don't wanna use right stuff in case I need more time to set up..is the red high temp the one?
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Very contraversal.subject..which rtv for front and rear of intake manifold.....I've done **** tone of bikes but not cars..can't find the stuff I used to use on them..don't wanna use right stuff in case I need more time to set up..is the red high temp the one?
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I don't like any of the stuff that hardens shiny. I prefer the 2nd Gen stuff, kind of a dull matte black color. But I think it comes in grey, and red too.
 
Installed the intake and went well I'm just not sure if I put enough on the end gaps.... Guess we will see ...just have to drill valve covers and grind a bit so they fit..then I'll be ready to test
 
rustycowll69 said:
all you need is a little dollop, like what you would put on your toothbrush.
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It's my first time..cleaned all nice..went well laid it on damn near perfect and rtv' d all the right places...just have a tiny bit of nervousness about the ends...never did a gasket or surface with a gap before...and took everyone's word on not useing the Cork...
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
It's my first time..cleaned all nice..went well laid it on damn near perfect and rtv' d all the right places...just have a tiny bit of nervousness about the ends...never did a gasket or surface with a gap before...and took everyone's word on not useing the Cork...
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I've never had an issue with the cork end gaskets, but I've seen the foam type end gaskets pooch in or squirt out after the fact by others. I can see how they could be an issue when surfaces have been remachined.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I've never had an issue with the cork end gaskets, but I've seen the foam type end gaskets pooch in or squirt out after the fact by others. I can see how they could be an issue when surfaces have been remachined.
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Did intake ..plugs..driver side valve cover..heater core...and have a damn broken valve cover bolt front passenger side so in the best place to work..got it drilled out all nice and put a easy out in and the MF broke...can't catch a break..should have just drilled whole thing out and re taped ar helicoiled new thrrads..now have a hole drilled halfway threw bolt and head to the bottom of the bolt. . tomorrow hopefully I can make it bigger and not break anything else and get the easy out out and finish up!!
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Did intake ..plugs..driver side valve cover..heater core...and have a damn broken valve cover bolt front passenger side so in the best place to work..got it drilled out all nice and put a easy out in and the MF broke...can't catch a break..should have just drilled whole thing out and re taped ar helicoiled new thrrads..now have a hole drilled halfway threw bolt and head to the bottom of the bolt. . tomorrow hopefully I can make it bigger and not break anything else and get the easy out out and finish up!!
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of course it's too late, now, but for future reference, you should use a left hand twist drill, and run the drill motor in reverse rotation to drill out the broken bolt. When you are drilling in reverse direction the drill usually catches and it will spin it right out. When you are using those screw extractors, there is always the danger of breaking one off in the hole and worsening the problem.
 
rustycowll69 said:
of course it's too late, now, but for future reference, you should use a left hand twist drill, and run the drill motor in reverse rotation to drill out the broken bolt. When you are drilling in reverse direction the drill usually catches and it will spin it right out. When you are using those screw extractors, there is always the danger of breaking one off in the hole and worsening the problem.
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All my left hand expept for big one is broke..I bought a set from harbor freight and broke half of them...I don't know what is in their but their must be old stuff broke off ..its half hard and half the top of easy out...when i put it in i didn't even use much force and it snapped...
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
All my left hand expept for big one is broke..I bought a set from harbor freight and broke half of them...I don't know what is in their but their must be old stuff broke off ..its half hard and half the top of easy out...when i put it in i didn't even use much force and it snapped...
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the extractors, by nature, are hard and brittle. If they break, you're up crapp creek without a paddle. On a bigger hole, if the extractor is hard enough you can use its hardness against it, by shattering it with a punch and pulling out the pieces. It's pretty brutal, but it can be done. But for a valve cover bolt hole, I dunno.
 
rustycowll69 said:
the extractors, by nature, are hard and brittle. If they break, you're up crapp creek without a paddle. On a bigger hole, if the extractor is hard enough you can use its hardness against it, by shattering it with a punch and pulling out the pieces. It's pretty brutal, but it can be done. But for a valve cover bolt hole, I dunno.
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rustycowll69 said:
the extractors, by nature, are hard and brittle. If they break, you're up crapp creek without a paddle. On a bigger hole, if the extractor is hard enough you can use its hardness against it, by shattering it with a punch and pulling out the pieces. It's pretty brutal, but it can be done. But for a valve cover bolt hole, I dunno.
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I got it..was able to use a thread insert ..worked great..
 
(Pissed off)Ran fine for awhile and started leaking out driver rear little and passenger front a little bit..all retorqued and seemed good..did I just not put enough rtv in right spots..or what thought I had it good...if I have to pull off I'm thinking of getting a performer air gap..but some places say it won't fit stock 850TQ..is that correct or??
 
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could be anything, really. did you tighten bolts in a pattern? I start all the bolts in loosely by hand, first. If there isn't a specified tightening sequence, when I begin to put torque to them I start with the innermost, and work side to side, and outward in a criss-cross pattern.
if you didn't use the cork gaskets for the ends, I'd use something to measure the gap between the "china" walls and the bottom of the ends of the intake. If it is more than 1/2 the thickness of an uncompressed cork end gasket, but less than the uncompressed thickness, then I would consider using the cork gasket, IF the manifold locating pins are still intact. If you are not using the pins, then you have to solidly glue those gaskets to the "china" wall, first, so they don't pooch in or out, when you start drawing the manifold down.This can happen if you put "wet" rtv on BOTH sides when you assemble it because the gaskets are somewhat slippery until the rtv cures.
 
rustycowll69 said:
could be anything, really. did you tighten bolts in a pattern? I start all the bolts in loosely by hand, first. If there isn't a specified tightening sequence, when I begin to put torque to them I start with the innermost, and work side to side, and outward in a criss-cross pattern.
if you didn't use the cork gaskets for the ends, I'd use something to measure the gap between the "china" walls and the bottom of the ends of the intake. If it is more than 1/2 the thickness of an uncompressed cork end gasket, but less than the uncompressed thickness, then I would consider using the cork gasket, IF the manifold locating pins are still intact. If you are not using the pins, then you have to solidly glue those gaskets to the "china" wall, first, so they don't pooch in or out, when you start drawing the manifold down.This can happen if you put "wet" rtv on BOTH sides when you assemble it because the gaskets are somewhat slippery until the rtv cures.
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I used the sequence in my dad's old chiltons manual and looked it up just like you said..inside out while crossing.. lightly tourqued and waited a bit than torque to 25 than to 40.. checked manifold on dry and gap didn't look to big..but just checked with not used Cork and it's like the same size gap as the cork ..so guess I will pull apart and redoo with the cork.. should be able to get location pins ??.. and should I just get air gap..and do you know if it fits 850TQ carb
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Guess this is better known as a learning experience!!!. Damn it!!..lol
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not sure I have the total picture on whether you used the cork end gasket or not. When you "dry" fit the manifold with the manifold just laying on the side gasket, if the end gap is greater than the thickness of the cork gasket, you may need some rtv on top of the cork gasket if it's not going to "crush" when you tighten it down. If that is so, you will need to glue the end gaskets with something like High Tack (use brush-on type to avoid spraying it on stuff you don't want all gooped-up) or 3M "gorilla-snot". Follow directions on the packaging.
The pins can just be roll pins, available at a good hdwe store. Did somebody remove them? Some aftermarket manifolds don't have locating holes, that's one of the reasons they are removed.
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
I used the sequence in my dad's old chiltons manual and looked it up just like you said..inside out while crossing.. lightly tourqued and waited a bit than torque to 25 than to 40.. checked manifold on dry and gap didn't look to big..but just checked with not used Cork and it's like the same size gap as the cork ..so guess I will pull apart and redoo with the cork.. should be able to get location pins ??.. and should I just get air gap..and do you know if it fits 850TQ carb
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aftermarket or stock intake decision depends on your combination and is somewhat subjective. I like stock 4bbl spread bore manifold for most mild apps. If it's for a warm street/ occasional strip I'd use the stock manifold.
 
rustycowll69 said:
not sure I have the total picture on whether you used the cork end gasket or not. When you "dry" fit the manifold with the manifold just laying on the side gasket, if the end gap is greater than the thickness of the cork gasket, you may need some rtv on top of the cork gasket if it's not going to "crush" when you tighten it down. If that is so, you will need to glue the end gaskets with something like High Tack (use brush-on type to avoid spraying it on stuff you don't want all gooped-up) or 3M "gorilla-snot". Follow directions on the packaging.
The pins can just be roll pins, available at a good hdwe store. Did somebody remove them? Some aftermarket manifolds don't have locating holes, that's one of the reasons they are removed.
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I didn't use end gaskets and I also dry fit without the side gaskets ..( won't make that mistake again).. bought new gaskets will be redoing the correct way tomorrow if no rain or Thursday..when I took out gaskets their were no locating pins..also I don't remember seeing any holes for pins on intake or motor when I cleaned it???
 
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