Intake question

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olddog12

olddog12

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Nova Scotia Ehh
So this is the intake on my 318. I am by NO means smart on engines for the record.
Now this may be a relativity dumb question but since I dont know the answer I figure I should ask. Whats goes on the hole next to where the carb would bolt?
 

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This, it's for the choke. Similar anyway. I think this one is for a 2bbl, not sure if there is a difference.
 

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There is also a cover plate to block it off if you don't need to use it for a choke.
 
Well thank you very much guys! Ya the motor came with a carter 4966 AVS.
Anyone got a pic of the choke block off plate? I dont think I will need a choke.
 
You don't really need the gasket. Don't really even need to cover it but it will look neater and keep heat off that side of the carb
 
olddog12 said:
Well thank you very much guys! Ya the motor came with a carter 4966 AVS.
Anyone got a pic of the choke block off plate? I dont think I will need a choke.
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Without a picture of the carburetor it's hard to say. The picture that Rumblefish posted is the choke pull-off. A complete AVS will have choke plate in the primary side of the carburetor. The pull-off keeps the plate open when the engine is warm.

To install the carburetor and have satisfactory engine operation, one of the following actions need to be taken regarding the choke, assuming there is a choke plate in the carburetor.

1. Put a link (do-it-yourself, IDK if they are commercially available) on the bell crank that operates the choke plate to keep it open.
2. Remove the choke plate.
3. Install the choke pull-off as Rumblefish has shown.
4. Install a push-pull cable for complete manual control of the choke.
5. Install an electric choke. Kits for this are available in the aftermarket. IIRC, the Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS uses the same kit as you would need for your carburetor.

My 2 ¢ worth to you is that you live in a cold enough climate to benefit from having a functional choke on the engine, especially during winter.
 
Hey 2 Darts, thanks for all the info. The car will not be driven in the winter at all, in fact it will be kept in the garage unless its a nice sunny day so would I still need to put a choke on it?
Here are some pics of the carb. This carb came with the motor when I bought it and I was told work great until one of the floats got a hole in it. I ordered a rebuild kit and float for it and should be in today.
 

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olddog12 said:
Hey 2 Darts, thanks for all the info. The car will not be driven in the winter at all, in fact it will be kept in the garage unless its a nice sunny day so would I still need to put a choke on it?
Here are some pics of the carb. This carb came with the motor when I bought it and I was told work great until one of the floats got a hole in it. I ordered a rebuild kit and float for it and should be in today.
Click to expand...

I live in Texas. Texas cold does not equal Nova Scotia cold. Our winters here are very tame compared to yours.

I have a friend in Austin with a 318 4-bbl with no choke blade or shaft. To start it for the first time during a day, I crank and pump gas while he holds a rag over the mouth of the carburetor. Gaskets in the carb are bad, so it usually takes 10-12 seconds for it to light and maybe a minute before he can completely remove the rag. Once the engine is up to operating temp, it restarts easily. IMHO, Rumblefish's bi-metallic spring choke pull-off (sometimes referred to as a divorced choke since it is not mounted on the carburetor) or an electric unit are better choices for long term enjoyment of the vehicle.

I forgot, there's also an electrically assisted choke pull-off I had on a 73 Dart /6. It looks a lot like Rumblefish's but also has a small electric heating element in it. Initially, I put a link to the Holley 1945 to hold the choke open. Ran well as until I swapped out the exhaust manifold for one that did not have carb heat. It would stall, when cold, at the most inopportune times until I figured out a way to get a choke to work with the aftermarket exhaust manifold.

If you're willing to put up with something like these situations, go for it. It's your car, do with it what makes you happy and keeps us all safe.
 
I would still use a choke in your area, I'm sure you will want to drive it on nice cool fall or spring days. Plus you have to cover that hole anyway so I would add the divorced choke. You need the choke pull off that you already have on the carb, just make sure it doesn't leak. Put vacuum on it and it should pull back the rod and it should hold.
 
Bad Sport said:
Whaaaat? You mean weakie pedia ain't a good source.
Click to expand...

funny story about that


my English professor was trying to make a point about how untrustworthy wiki is
her 8th grade class had to do a paper on north korea and she made to statement they were NOT to use wiki because anyone can go on there and ad stuff, as a matter of fact, if one of them (her class) would go on there and inform people that they breed unicorns in noth korea they could
well, sure enough the next morning one of her 8th grades came in and told her she was right, he had added the info to the wiki page
so she looked it up and there it was, in black and white, a whole paragraph on how they breed unicorns in north korea :banghead:
 
I would put a choke on it. You want to know why?

Wanna hear it hear it goes!

I think mopar chokes are cool. A factory looking choke on that manifold with an AVS and a 340 black open element air cleaner
would be killer.
 
Dragonbat13 said:
I would put a choke on it. You want to know why?

Wanna hear it hear it goes!

I think mopar chokes are cool. A factory looking choke on that manifold with an AVS and a 340 black open element air cleaner
would be killer.
Click to expand...
Much better reason than expecting an old style hot air choke to work in my book.
 
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