Interesting update on "crappy" repro fan shrouds

-
340sFastback said:
Mine warped at the top. Kind of hard to tell in the picture but it sagged around 1/2":
Click to expand...

340sFastback, curious to know how you have your shroud mounted to the rad. Are those bolts through u-nuts on the rad? Studs? Are there nuts between the shroud and rad that fit into those mount cavities on the backside of the shroud? Separate mounting brackets attached to the rad?
 
Cool , the newer one can sag twice as far before it hits anything ROFL

The original kep washer bolts and U nuts can be found on ebay.
 
Here is the shroud mounting config on my 69 340 Dart. Uses U nuts and keps bolts.
I hope the pic isn't too fuzzy to see it.

George

rad shroud bolts 001.JPG
 
Thanks for the pic and info guys. Forgive me but, there's space or a cavity molded in below the mount that would allow room for a u-nut - but a lot more than necessary. What prevents you from crushing/cracking the shroud when you tighten the bolts down?

What size thread on the bolts/u-nuts? 1/4"-20?

shroud mount.jpg
 
There may be a small offset in the sheet meatl where the U nut sits. I'd have to go look to say for sure but the did that on the dash house and everywhere else. Even if it did crack right where the yellow arrow is pointing the crack wouldn't begin again on opposite side of bolt hole.
 
Redfish is exactly right; raised area in the side bracket that is unseen in the pic as it's hidden behind the shroud.

George
 
That figures - the "repro" radiator from US Radiator does not have raised areas on the side brackets, they're flat. Holes are there though. Probably need to come up with a spacer or mod the brackets.

Thanks guys.
 
70Duster440 said:
That figures - the "repro" radiator from US Radiator does not have raised areas on the side brackets, they're flat. Holes are there though. Probably need to come up with a spacer or mod the brackets.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
You can epoxy some spacers to the back side of the shroud and be OK. The bolt will hold it in place once it's installed.

George
 
Bill at A&M had a new shroud shipped to me because the one I got before warped badly. Thanks Bill. Here are some pics. Who knows if it will warp again or not:

Shroud.jpg


ShroudBolts.jpg
 
Looks good, 340sFastback. Yeah, my non-oem brackets are flat. I may just weld nuts to the frame to act as spacers and give me threads.

Are you happy with the fit around the upper tank?
 
70Duster440 said:
Are you happy with the fit around the upper tank?
Click to expand...

I am real happy with the fit. But is it going to warp again?? My guess would be yes but I hope I am wrong. Its still kind of flimsy feeling, not rigid like the originals were. But they got the fit right that is for sure. Now they just need to make them so they don't warp.
 
340sFastback said:
Like George says the brackets on the sides of the original radiators are raised up where the shroud bolts are. I got my bolt kit from:

http://www.amhightechauto.com/

Look under fasteners or contact them.
Click to expand...

340, Maybe you can answer this question. I bought the fan shroud and the cage nut & bolt kit for my '68 Cuda, but it looks like the screws are too long and will go into the rad fins, is this correct. I have the repro shroud and correct repro nut & bolt set (same as you have pictured), and just a little worried I might damage the rad. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
shhnappa said:
340, Maybe you can answer this question. I bought the fan shroud and the cage nut & bolt kit for my '68 Cuda, but it looks like the screws are too long and will go into the rad fins, is this correct. I have the repro shroud and correct repro nut & bolt set (same as you have pictured), and just a little worried I might damage the rad. Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...

I had to nudge my fins over a little bit to make sure the bolts would clear. Just as long as a bolt doesn't hit a "tube" you will be fine. Remember the fins are just there to dissipate heat. The tubes are what actually carries the coolant so the tubes are what you need to worry about and they aren't in the way.
 
340sFastback - big favor to ask.

Could you supply the dimensions noted in your picture? I'm trying to determine just how "incorrect" my radiator is and the best way to make the shroud fit better, short of finding a different rad.

Brackets.jpg
 
Here you go. The 2.25" measurement is edge to edge where the yellow line is. The 5/8" is the core to the radiator support but note how the bracket sweeps in to mount to the support. On the side toward the engine the core is flush with the bracket.

RadiatorBracketMeasurements.jpg
 
Wow, mine cracked within a week of getting my car running last fall! I think I may have to look into a replacement too. I bought mine from Mancini's.

Thanks for all the info guys!
 
I bought one a while back and after reading the previous threads on what a POS they were I sent it back to where I purchased it.
 
I bought a repro shroud last summer. It lasted about 2 weeks before the fan destroyed it. I figured I must have installed it wrong, but it sounds like it probably warped and sagged into the fan. I wish I had know all this last year. I think I bought mine from Mancini too.
 
67Redfish said:
I bought a repro shroud last summer. It lasted about 2 weeks before the fan destroyed it. I figured I must have installed it wrong, but it sounds like it probably warped and sagged into the fan. I wish I had know all this last year. I think I bought mine from Mancini too.
Click to expand...

Probably warped and sagged into the fan. They warp at the top because the coolant heats up that top tank and the cheap flimsy plastic sags. As a result you could end up with a bent fan which can take out your water pump. I will be very surprised if the newer versions don't warp.
 
Went for my first significant drive of the year and the fan shroud is warped already. The top has sagged to the point where it almost touches the fan.
 
That sucks!

Judging from your earlier photos, it appears you have a lot less fan to shroud clearance at the top than the bottom. Mine's fairly even with a good 1" clearance.

While I was repositioning my core relative to the side brackets, I soldered a small copper L-bracket to the top of the tank to support the top of the shroud. The top of the shroud rests on it. A single screw runs through the shroud and bracket. It's very firm and after some driving is holding up good. Except for the screw head, it's unnoticeable.
 
Here is a picture of it warping. Looks like it won't be long before the fan hits it.

ShroudWarped.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top