Intermediate shaft won’t come out

[71408duster]

I’ve recently put together my 408 for my duster and in the process have dealt with the small block gremlins. The intermediate shaft worst of all. My problem with it is I can install it turn the motor over just fine and watch it rotate like normal however, when I try to remove it to re-clock it it will not budge. I’ve had this happen a couple of times and can’t seem to get it out without a prybar under the gear itself (big no no but I was desperate) now it’s done it again and would like some help on why it’s doing it and how to free it up without force I’ve also replaced the bushing and checked for proper clearance which it has thanks in advance!

 

[413]

Did you ream the bushing after installation?
Does the shaft install easily like it should?

 

[Professor Fate]

If the bushing has been burnished and has the correct clearance, I can only think of two things to check.
1. Make sure the shaft is clean (no manufacturing imperfections) and is not bent and runs true. Maybe chuck the end up in a drill press and take a look at it at a low speed, see if you spot something there. A tweaked shaft will bind, either in the bushing or at the oil pump.
2. This is a stretch, but check your oil pump. ARP main cap fasteners have been known to be a bit too tall to clear the bottom of HV oil pumps. If the bolt immediately under the pump is contacting the pump body, when the pump is tightened down it could be distorting the pump a bit, throwing the drive a bit off kilter and causing the intermediate shaft to bind into the pump once inserted. Worth checking, but if that's not it I got nuthin' else...

 

[tonysrt]

Have you tried rotating the engine backwards to remove the gear? It may help.

 

[66fyssh]

I don't think I've ever had one come out easily . Mine was also reamed correctly. No idea why they "stick".

Couple suggestions:

two flat screwdrivers in the slot.
Bend a coat hanger into a J and fish it under.

 

[RustyRatRod]

As mentioned, there is a burnishing tool that forces a "ball" end through the bushing after installation that sizes it correctly. Most aftermarket bushings are size in a way that they are correct when installed and don't require burnishing. I always do it anyway. The factory bushings normally require burnishing.

 

[71408duster]

Some more info: this intermediate shaft was in another engine paired with the same cam which worked flawlessly the bushing was not reamed however the shaft still spins fine in the bore no binding there. I have taken the pan off a couple of times and reseated the stock pump into place with the shaft hex still in to make sure it seated while I was in there. The arp studs that are used are shaved down already so it has no issues there. I have tried rotating the engine backwards forwards upside down and inside out and nothing seems to help.

 

[RAT ROD AL]

When all else fails !!!

 

[RAT ROD AL]

I always just used a big screwdriver to spin it up & out. Maybe a screwdriver with a wrench hex up by the handle !

 

[71408duster]

When all else fai

this is version one of my motor there are better things to come in the future when I get the funds, ritter and maybe a fat pro charger

I always just used a big screwdriver to spin it up & out. Maybe a screwdriver with a wrench hex up by the handle !

tried it already and it started stripping the slot in the middle so might as well just blow it up again

 

[RAT ROD AL]

Did you spin it both directions ? The Helical gears should spin it up and out. Just asking .

 

[Cranky]

I have an old pair of Craftsman ring expander pliers....it's worthless for expanding rings but works great to grab the gear slot and twist it out. Used it for years just for that.

 

[Illahe]

If the bushing has been burnished and has the correct clearance, I can only think of two things to check.
1. Make sure the shaft is clean (no manufacturing imperfections) and is not bent and runs true. Maybe chuck the end up in a drill press and take a look at it at a low speed, see if you spot something there. A tweaked shaft will bind, either in the bushing or at the oil pump.
2. This is a stretch, but check your oil pump.

I’ve recently put together my 408 for my duster and in the process have dealt with the small block gremlins. The intermediate shaft worst of all. My problem with it is I can install it turn the motor over just fine and watch it rotate like normal however, when I try to remove it to re-clock it it will not budge. I’ve had this happen a couple of times and can’t seem to get it out without a prybar under the gear itself (big no no but I was desperate) now it’s done it again and would like some help on why it’s doing it and how to free it up without force I’ve also replaced the bushing and checked for proper clearance which it has thanks in advance!

ARP main cap fasteners have been known to be a bit too tall to clear the bottom of HV oil pumps. If the bolt immediately under the pump is contacting the pump body, when the pump is tightened down it could be distorting the pump a bit, throwing the drive a bit off kilter and causing the intermediate shaft to bind into the pump once inserted. Worth checking, but if that's not it I got nuthin' else...

@Newbomb Turk had the same issue with the oil pump drive recently.

 

[71408duster]

There’s quite a bit of pressure holding that gear in no idea how it’s like this but last time when I got it out which broke the old bushing, it shot up in the air about 2-3 inches from the pressure that was on it. I know these are supposed to come out easy as it did on the other block but I don’t know why it’s like this in this block. The shaft that I took out to rebuild this engine was easy to remove the shaft I put in it was easy to remove from the other block maybe a different shaft would fix it? This is such a tight gear unlike others that I’ve removed.

 

[George Jets]

Sounds like a slight bind between your new camshaft gear that drives the intermediate shaft gear.

Not broke in yet, so it's running tight making it difficult to get out.


,

 

[71408duster]

Sounds like a slight bind between your new camshaft gear that drives the intermediate shaft gear.

Not broke in yet, so it's running tight making it difficult to get out.


,

It could be a possibility but how would I fix that? Gently pry the cam back and forth to get some clearance? heat? Just run it till it shaves it down?

 

[George Jets]

It could be a possibility but how would I fix that? Gently pry the cam back and forth to get some clearance? heat? Just run it till it shaves it down?

Not sure how far along on your 408 build you are?

If heads are on and lifters and pushrods in, you can pull all the spark plugs out, diconnect the manual fuel pump. You might even want to put a distributor in it to hold the intermediate shaft and gear down. Put some light 5w30 motor oil on the intermediate shaft and gear to help it break in. (not the thick STP type engine assembly lube)

Make sure it's full of oil and the filter on and run the engine over with the starter till it loosens up a bit.

Or if no starter, crank it over by hand with a socket on the front crankshaft pulley bolt.

Other questions, have you oil primed the engine yet with a drill and oil pump drive tool?

As you are building your engine there are certain things that need to be completed before you start rolling the engine over... FYI

After you have rolled the engine over for a while, pull the distributor and see if the intermediate shaft and gear will come out by "rotating" it with a big screw driver.

One step at a time.

.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Should come out with a big flat head screwdriver turning it counterclockwise/opposite of the direction it turns with the camshaft

next time you have a new bushing installed, take the old intermediate shaft and file a couple of angled grooves on it then with some Grease..insert and turn it into the bushing.. to clearance it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The shop that did the engine. Did they line bore the cam tunnel? sounds like that could be the issue if its only that block.

 

[Fury1969WI]

what's the cam lash like?

 

[Bewy]

Sounds odd. The shaft diam should be the same top to bottom. If it dropped in ok, it should come out ok. Unless it has developed a burr or carbon build up the shaft.

 

[ValiantRacing]

This works great
Intermediate (distributor) Shaft Bushing Installer and Reamer Tool